Bolivia | Sharing Our World

Bolivia

(02/08 - 20/08)

The end of our adventure is slowly coming, and it is Bolivia that we have chosen to (almost) end our discovery of Latin America. Despite our limited time here, we did our best to visit this territory twice the size of France and thirty times the size of Belgium! From the colonial town of Sucre to the sprawling La Paz (both capitals), passing by the must-see Lake Titicaca and Sajama National Park, not to mention the mines of Potosi and the lunar expanses of the Uyuni Salar, one thing is sure: Bolivia deserves its nickname of mosaic country!

Contents

La Paz (02/08 - 06/08)

It is at 4 am (and a bit tired) that we land in La Paz. Culminating at 3640m above sea level, it is the highest capital of the world. And if we don't feel it immediately when we get off the plane, the sloping street leading to our accommodation quickly makes us aware of it! Nestled in a valley and dominated by several snow-capped peaks, the city benefits from a unique topography offering a plethora of panoramic lookouts. To get there, nothing could be simpler, we just need to take... the cable car! And La Paz has the longest urban network in the world (more than 30 kilometers)! A trip aboard this skytrain the next day allows us to grasp the vastness of the region and its 2 million inhabitants.

La Paz (02/08 - 06/08)

Among the impressive brick constructions lining the city walls, it's impossible to miss Chualluma, a once poor and isolated neighborhood that now stands proudly against the ocher landscape of the surrounding houses. Despite its novelty (2019), the project has already changed the lives of some 400 families, who are looking forward to the return of tourists!

Lower in the center, modernity and tradition rub shoulders on a daily basis. Thanks to its hectic traffic, its auctioneers, its cobbled streets, its oversized markets, its colorful vehicles, its rainbow shops and its perfectly preserved colonial buildings, the city is teeming, vibrating, but contrary to what one might think, BREATHES!

Then we decide to leave the city bustle to relive the peaceful experience of Lake Titicaca. This time on the Bolivian side!

Lake Titicaca (06/08 - 08/08)

We start by reaching the cemetery, the (strange) departure point for vehicles to our destination. Knowing the aversion of Bolivians (and in general South Americans) to morning awakenings, the queue of a hundred people on a Friday at 7:30 am should have alerted us... Just like the protests of passengers attributing the unfairly high price of the trip to the “fiesta” (what fiesta ?!). Not to mention the countless parades and brass bands... We realize that we are witnessing the parades of the National Day, anniversary of the official founding of the proclaimed Republic of Bolivia on August 6th, 1825!

After three hours of driving, we have to get off the bus for a river crossing. We then board a small boat as vehicles cross in ferries simultaneously. But there are so many of them that it is best to follow them with our eyes, without forgetting to remember a distinctive sign allowing us to recognize our coach, because once disembarked, the driver does not wait for his passengers!

An hour later, and here we are in Copacabana, on the shores of Lake Titicaca. More than an hour and a half of navigation before reaching our destination: Isla del Sol and its small village of Yumani. The magic operates as soon as we arrive at the hotel, and we immediately find the tranquility we were seeking.

With no vehicle (except mules) circulating on the island, trips are made on foot on mostly steep paths. And at almost 4000m altitude, you might as well say that each climb requires a physical condition worthy of great sportsmen. Fortunately, our first cardio session ends in front of a magnificent setting.

A true haven of peace, Isla del Sol is suitable for hiking. We thus set off again with pleasure to assault the island, between hilly terrain and landscaped terraces, in order to flush out the most beautiful panoramas over the 8340km² of Lake Titicaca. Simply mesmerizing!

Then it's time to leave this little paradise to return to the coast… on the roof of the boat!

Here we are again in Copacabana, where we decide to make a short stop. If the city was an important place of pilgrimage during the Inca period, it has retained this religious effervescence attracting Bolivians and foreigners throughout the year. Much of the activity is centered around the central square, which houses a breathtaking cathedral. With its towers and domes covered with colored azulejos, the 16th century building turns towards the Moorish style.

In front of the monument, we then witness a spectacle, to say the least, astonishing: the unusual Bendiciones de Movilidades (blessing of vehicles). As the name suggests, hundreds of locals converge every day from across the country to have their cars baptized. They adorn the latter with flowers, garlands and other decorations before sprinkling them with champagne and a priest comes to bless them and say a prayer. The ritual is all about bringing good luck and preventing accidents, and given that Bolivia has some of the most rugged roads, we think this might not be such a bad idea!

We then reach La Paz bus station, from where a bus to Sucre leaves the same evening.

Sucre & Surroundings (09/08 - 12/08)

And off we go on a night bus! A ten hour journey to reach the constitutional capital of the country: Sucre. Known as the most beautiful city in Bolivia, we can't wait to discover this famous one. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sucre owes its nickname "white city" to its collection of whitewashed buildings.

The agglomeration seems to have kept all its authenticity: no large building disturbs the harmony of its perfectly preserved colonial architecture. This is evidenced by the famous Plaza 25 de Mayo, located in the heart of the city and which invites us to stroll and relax. It's the perfect place to sip a nice fresh orange juice while watching the locals go about their business, not forgetting to admire some of the most important buildings.

Among the Metropolitan Cathedral, the National Palace and the Casa de la Libertad which surround it, the latter particularly holds our attention. Nothing beats this museum, where the Declaration of Independence was signed almost 200 years ago! We devote a morning to it, immersing ourselves into Bolivian history. Since the arrival of the Spaniards during the Revolution, we trace the complex history of the country and its main actors, such as Simón Bolivar, recognized as the great liberator. With its collection of archives and works of art, this house, which has become a historic monument, is considered the cradle of the nation.

On our way to the south of the country, we make a stop in Potosi. The city is home to Cerro Rico, a hill that has been mined for its metal for almost five centuries, making it the oldest mining site in the world still in operation! Since its discovery in 1545 by the conquistadors, its exploitation has never ceased.

But while the largest deposit of silver in history has greatly contributed to the enrichment of the Spanish crown and Europe, millions of Indian miners and African slaves have also perished there, by accident, exhaustion or illness. However, more than 10,000 people are still working... It is therefore quite natural that we decide to go there, in order to take a closer look at this obsolete profession, which is still very current here. To do this, we put on some equipment (suit, helmet, lamp and boots) and make a passage to the miners' market. We buy cigarettes, coca leaves, 96% alcohol and sodas, which we will give to the workers when we meet them. These products, the consumption of which has a (very) energizing effect, are highly appreciated by miners. Note that it is also possible to offer them dynamite, also available for sale!

Then it's time to enter one of the 180 mines of the hill and its 780 kilometers of galleries. Accompanied by our guide Vito, we plunge into a dark tunnel before stopping in front of a strange statue. This is El Tio, the god/devil of the mine to whom many offerings are made to ensure one’s protection. We are no exception to the rule, sometimes that he decides to make everything collapse...

We continue our underground exploration in search of ore (silver, zinc, tin, etc.), not without noticing the archaism and the obsolescence of the facilities. Folded in half, we find it difficult to navigate through this labyrinth of galleries that never ceases to develop. With the passage from one floor to another being carried out with bare hands or with the aid of dilapidated ladders, it’s hard to imagine the miners working like this.

The latter extract the metal manually (pickaxes) or through the use of jackhammers and dynamite sticks, before transporting it in canvas bags on their back (over 30 kilos) and bringing them to the exit aboard wheelbarrows or wagons. It's up to us to move away if they come tumbling down.

Despite their experience, accidents persist: disorientation, collapses, explosions, etc. Without forgetting the almost unbreathable atmosphere due to the presence of toxic dust (silica, arsenic ...) which considerably reduces the lifespan (40 to 55 years, against 70 years normally). At 34 years old and after 18 years spent underground, Vito is convinced that he has silicosis, an incurable lung disease from which the majority of miners suffer. He already regrets not having seen his children grow up, and like his father and grandfather before him, he thinks he will succumb to the disease in a few years… Despite these conditions, there is no shortage of candidates. Requiring neither diplomas nor specific qualifications, work in the mine is easily accessible (although reserved for men). The legal minimum age is just an illusion here, young people can start from 12 years old! As salaries are individually defined according to the quantity and quality of the ore, working hours are free: some work for a few hours while others are able to work full days (without going out)! Half of the profits must, however, be returned to the cooperatives managing the mines. In short, a pittance for a job leading to a disastrous end... And yet, few would exchange their place. Vito explains to us that indeed, the mining environment exerts a certain grip on its employees, like a reverse claustrophobia. Hospitals, banks, hotels and other public places are feared, if not completely avoided. Even the richest, despite old age and accumulated fatigue, continue to work. Living and dying in the mine is their destiny.

While miners used to find silver in the form of nuggets that could be sold directly, the metal must now go through a processing phase. We thus end the visit with a factory dedicated to this ultimate process: crushing, grinding, treatment by flotation, extraction of minerals, settling, evaporation, and finally recovery of the ore concentrate. The latter is ultimately mainly bought by Asia (India, China), Europe (Germany) and the United States.

It’s tired and a little stunned that we end this experience, both admiring and sad in front of the Potosi miners’ fate. And as if our mind was not agitated enough, we travel 4 hours at the end of which a whole adventure will disturb us...

Uyuni Salar & South Lipez (13/08 - 20/08)

Uyuni Salar & South Lipez (12/08 - 20/08)

Indeed, we arrive at our accommodation in the small town of Tupiza when we realize that we have lost… ALL OUR PAPERS. Our bag containing passports, money, and credit cards (yes, we know they shouldn't be bundled) seems to have been left in the very last vehicle we left. Neither one nor two, we rush to the bus station where we were dropped off, and where our minivan has of course evaporated! A real chase starts. It is 9:00 p.m, it is pitch dark, we are completely exhausted, and here we are, crisscrossing the neighborhood in search (according to Anouck) for a large white minivan without any stickers. Obviously, we have no idea which company we went with, the tickets being… in the famous bag! Fortunately, we can roughly describe our chauffeur that other drivers manage to recognize. So we're looking for an Oscar. With the help of the locals, we locate his home... where he is not. His neighbors then give us his phone number... to which he does not answer. After about ten minutes of intensive harassment, we finally reach him. Luckily, he's only a few kilometers away and agrees to meet us, before suddenly hanging up. We didn't even have time to ask him to confirm that he had our belongings! At this point, we're not even sure we've contacted the right person... Five minutes later, and we see a gray and motley van coming forward. Sure, we're screwed! But no, it is our dear toothless Oscar! We are saved, and Anouck is reassured: we will have enough to pay for something to eat today! Did I mention that I asked her TWICE if she hadn't forgotten anything on the way down the minivan? “NOOO!” she dared to answer me, annoyed!

Anyways. We are just recovering from this unfortunate accident that we embark on a morning horseback riding to discover the… Bolivian Far West. Equipped with the perfect cowgirl outfit, we set off for three hours of hiking in a very special setting. Cacti, canyons, ravines, multicolored geological formations and other curiously eroded rocks accompany us on this stroll worthy of an American western (the pistols less).

Then it’s time to get ready for Bolivia’s MUST DO, the four-day, three-night excursion to the Sud Lipez and Uyuni Salar region. Accompanied by another French couple (MA & Julien), our driver and guide Ruben, and our cook Melvi, we begin our 1200 kilometers journey.

DAY 1: Tupiza (2900m) > Quetena Chico (4200m) - 320km

We start by crossing the spectacular rock formations of Quebrada de Palala towards El Sillar. Sculpted over the centuries by time and erosion, the rocks now form several bodies appearing like petrified forests.

We continue to Ciudad del Encanto, another geological curiosity where we are having lunch. It is therefore surrounded by impressive sand stalagmites and other incredible sculptures that we enjoy our first meal.

We slowly get back on our way, not without noticing the diversity of the great plains that we cross and the small inhabitants that we meet. Vicunas in particular are responsible for a large number of stops.

We then reach the old colonial town of San Antonio del Nuevo Mundo, now abandoned. There are still many ruins of churches and dwellings there, suggesting that the village was once very alive. Ruben confirms to us that nearly 4,000 people lived there, the majority of them natives enslaved by the Spaniards for the exploitation of the surrounding gold and silver mines.

The day ends with a superb panorama on the Molejón Laguna, before taking warm refuge in Quetena Chico. Finally "warm", if we put on our seven layers of clothing, our two sleeping bags, not to mention the four extra heavy blankets that you have to pull with the strength of your arms! The night is freezing (-10°C), but surprisingly bearable!

DAY 2: Quetena Chico (4200m) > Huayllajara (4278m) - 280km

As soon as we get back on the road, we already ask Ruben to park on the side. Blame it on a herd of 500 llamas that we are dying to approach and above all, to photograph. With their colorful pompoms allowing them to be associated with their shepherd, they are damn stylish!

We then come across the Hedionda Sur and Kollpa lagoons, around which we take short walks. The opportunity to approach our first flamingos, a true symbol of the region and in numbers during this season.

Then we walk along the Dali desert, named so because it looks like some of the painter's works. While the similarity can be argued, the warm-colored landscape dotted with volcanic rocks is in itself a magnificent picture.

The journey continues to the sumptuous Lagunas Blanca and Verde. Located at the foot of the imposing Licancabur volcano (5960m), these two expanses get their vibrant colors from the minerals in the water: borax for Laguna Blanca and copper and arsenic for Laguna Verde. When blowing, the wind facilitates their ascent through the water, which gives rise to even more pronounced colors.

Not far away, the thermal springs of Polques await us for an hour of relaxation. At 37°C, the specially equipped swimming pools allow us to bask (and warm up) in an absolutely remarkable setting.

After a good lunch, we take the direction of the Geysers of Sol de Mañana. Here, no security barrier, we wander freely through this field of sulphurous fumaroles and bubbling mud craters. Better to know where you put your feet!

We close our second day of excursion with the sparkling Laguna Colorada. Very shallow, this vast body of water is rich in microscopic algae, which gives it its atypical reddish color. A phenomenon of accumulation of different minerals in certain places also gives this whitish appearance which contrasts perfectly with the rusty effect of the lagoon. In short, the ideal place for hundreds of flamingos!

New accommodation, new dormitory… and another cold night! But it’s this time under a starry sky that we fall into the arms of Morpheus.

DAY 3: Huayllajara (4278m) > Atullcha (3650m) - 280km

The morning begins with a stroll along the Laguna Colorada, which without the sun yet, has taken on bluish shades. Llamas, flamingos and other birds take the opportunity to quench their thirst, which gives us splendid shots.

We are then heading for the Siloli Desert and its mysterious glowing blocks chiseled by wind and erosion. Note the “stone tree” and its striking resemblance to a certain World Cup held by France…

Continuing, Anouck manages to touch a viscacha, a rodent of the chinchilla family apparently very curious and greedy. Judging by the amount of photos taken, I have the impression that we will be hearing about it for a long time!

We then take the Road of Jewels, lined with lagoons each more beautiful than the next. First there is the Laguna Honda, famous for its natural heart shape. Then Laguna ChiarKhota and the immense Laguna Hedionda, whose colorful nuances are explained by their high mineral content and high salinity. Followed by Laguna Pastos Grandes, ideal for enjoying our lunch. One can only validate the attraction of the flamingos for this region as its beauty is captivating.

Approaching the still active volcanoes Ollagüe (5865m) and Tomasamil (5890m), the scenery changes considerably until we land in the Salar de Chiguana, with the two giants still in the background.

At the end of the afternoon, we discover our accommodation for the last night. The latter will take place in a salt hotel, whose floors, walls and entire furniture are constructed from the local material of the Uyuni region. A total immersion which clearly announces the program!

Located on the edge of the desert, we do not miss the sunset in the middle of the salt patches. The opportunity to test some original ideas for THE photoshoot that everyone is waiting for. However, we do not forget to take advantage of this completely timeless moment, before joining our unusual accommodation.

DAY 4: Atullcha (3650m) > Gran Salar de Uyuni > Tupiza (2900m) - 320km

It's THE DAY! The one of the great salt flats of Uyuni! But before contemplating its infinity in the middle of the day, it is first at night that we will explore it. Wake up at dawn (5 am) to watch the sunrise from the Isla Incahuasi.

Located in the heart of Bolivia's greatest wonder, this hilly island is covered with cacti, the largest of which measure up to 12 meters! The night gradually gives way to the first light of day, revealing the white sea that surrounds us.

Then the sun finally makes its appearance and offers us one of the most warming spectacles! Impossible to take our eyes off the desolate 12,582 km² that could swallow us up in one bite!

With empty stomachs, we hurtle down the island in no time to enjoy our delicious breakfast. Alone in the world, we feel extremely privileged.

Now is the time to head to the saline plain to find the perfect place to express all our creativity. With white as far as the eye can see, the Salar de Uyuni lends itself easily to perspective photos and optical illusions.

Here, the desert can reach up to 120 meters in thickness, alternating no less than 12 layers of salt, sediment and minerals, the deposits of which date back to the progressive drying up of lakes thousands years ago. The result: one of the most supernatural places on the planet!

We continue towards the very first (and last) salt hotel on the same salar, and next to which is a monument (in salt obviously) commemorating the passage of the Dakar in 2016. Not far, small piles (Ojos de Sal) indicate the presence of extraction plants for the precious white sesame.

After leaving the desert, our journey ends in a post-apocalyptic setting: a train cemetery where 19th century old steam locomotives and wagons lie peacefully. These old iron scraps were once used to transport ore to Chile, before being abandoned and now rusting in a field.

Back in Tupiza, we board a first bus of 7 hours (against 4 hours, the photos will help you understand why) to Tarija, where we continue with a carpool of 7 passengers (for 5 seats) for the town of Villamontes, a few kilometers from Paraguay... This is how we end our roadtrip in the country, a real favorite of the world tour that we will not hesitate to repeat in a few years. We are indeed leaving Bolivia full of regrets, and would have liked to discover more of this rich and diverse territory!

Highlights

OUR FAVOURITES

The breathtaking landscapes, among the most beautiful we have seen during our world tour
The kindness and sense of humor of Bolivians
The less touristy side of the country compared to others in Latin America

OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS

The soulless colonial cities (Sucre for example)
The freezing cold
The fact that we had to rush our trip through the country as we lacked time

Budget

SHARING OUR WORLD

A reflection of the planet we share.