Jordan
(14/09 - 25/09)
Here we are! Two years after our big departure, we are at the gates of the ultimate destination of our world tour. And it is Jordan that we have chosen to close this wonderful journey. A former crossroads of incense and spice caravans, this country where several civilizations have succeeded one another is, it seems, a true haven of peace in the midst of the storms that are shaking the region. From the legendary city of Petra to the capital Amman, passing through the incredible natural sites of the Dead Sea and the multicolored desert of Wadi Rum, we can't wait to follow Lawrence of Arabia's footsteps and explore the Orient’s treasures, where sculptures of man and wind come together.
Contents
Petra (14/09 - 17/09)
We are not even off the plane that we have to rush through PCR and immigration checks to pick up our rental car.
Direction Petra, the pearl of the Middle East. We therefore take the road to the village of Wadi Musa, the gateway to the mysterious hidden city.
The next day, we wake up at dawn to conquer our 4th modern wonder of the world. No question of losing a minute of the show, not to mention that with our two (re)found world travellers friends, we hope to be among the first to arrive! Once the visitors center has been passed, we enter the site as if in a well-protected jewel box. Indeed, it is only by taking the Siq that Petra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, can be contemplated. Carved between two cliffs culminating at 140 meters, this chasm smoothed by time and erosion is already a real attraction in itself. We take pleasure strolling through this narrow path, which measures only two meters wide at its narrowest point.
In the footsteps of Indiana Jones, we move happily in this cinematographic setting and quickly reach the end of the 1200 meters on which the ancient city and its most symbolic monument emerge.
While no one knows precisely when Petra was built, it began to flourish as the capital of the Nabataean Empire in the 1st century BC. Located on several trade routes connecting ancient Mesopotamia to Egypt, the city gradually grew rich thanks to the trading of frankincense, myrrh and spices. Petra was then annexed to the Roman Empire until successive earthquakes and the modification of trade routes led to the gradual abandonment of the city from the 4th century. In the 8th century, the city seemed largely deserted, when it hosted nearly 25,000 inhabitants at its peak. Forgotten for over 1000 years, the site was rediscovered in 1812 by the Swiss explorer Jean Louis Burckhardt. Today, several intricate and well preserved structures carved into the sandstone cliffs are still visible and demonstrate the Greco-Roman influence on the Nabataean architecture. Like the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), the most emblematic facade of Petra. At 40 meters high, this sumptuous tomb carved into the rock is made up of massive columns and crowned with a funeral urn which, according to local legend, conceals the Pharaoh's treasure. And as hoped, we are the only ones to admire this exceptional edifice!
Then the first camels appear, enough to familiarize us with this brand new travel animal, and to vaguely remind us of our last llamas.
Obviously, each angle differs from the previous one and justifies an additional series of shots, to the chagrin of Anouck who already fears the number of photos to sort out.
And now the first rays of sun are shining, illuminating the Treasure and its impressive pillars. What a show! And what a privilege to be able to attend this in such a small committee!
But this unmissable facade is not the only archaeological gem in Petra. The Nabataeans also built a set of monumental tombs there as well as a lower town including gardens, a vast theater of 4000 places (the only one in the world carved in rocks), a nymphaeum, temples, and with the influence of the Byzantines, a colonnaded street and churches.
We then begin the climb to the fabulous Ad-Deir monastery, which can only be reached on foot (or on the back of a mule) due to the 800 sculpted steps that give access to it. When we arrive, we discover a huge stone building weathered by time. With its 47m wide and more than 48m high, not to mention its imposing 9m funeral urn surmounting it, this ancient Nabataean tomb dating from the 2nd century was reused by Christians as a monastery, which earned it its current name.
From the top of the cliff a few meters away, the view over the region is breathtaking. We therefore take advantage of the setting to reward our efforts and rest with a little tea break.
On the way back, we see a last structure that is a little hidden and strangely resembling a lock, as if to subtly indicate to us that it is time to end this first day.
We get back to our accommodation exhausted, but still excited to continue our Nabataean discovery the next day. A short night and a second morning awakening later, and we're back to walking the narrow corridor leading to the Treasury. The temptation is great, but we resist taking out the phones to soak up the scenery for the umpteenth time. We slow down in front of the facade, but we manage to pass it without stopping in order to start our hike. On the program, 600 steps to climb to access a unique point of view.
On the way back down, we make sure to visit the four royal tombs, which include the Urn Tomb, the Silk Tomb, the Corinthian Tomb and the Palace Tomb. Carved out of the rock with moiré colors, these funerary buildings are astonishing.
We are exhausted again when we leave Petra for good, but completely amazed by the last two days spent in this incomparable city.
Wadi Rum (17/09 - 19/09)
We barely have time to come back to reality when another adventure awaits us: a two-day, two-night immersion in the famous Wadi Rum desert. Always well accompanied, we leave for the south of the country where we meet our guide, Eid. At the wheel of his 4x4, this young Bedouin man of 25 years old is eager to share with us a piece of his paradise.
And from the first minutes of the circuit, we are won over. The sea of sand that awaits us, punctuated by the imposing massifs of sandstone and granite, immediately transports us to another dimension. When taking a little height, we can only approve of the nickname "Valley of the Moon" given to this spectacular desert.
Obviously, the immaculate dune does not go unnoticed and gives some ideas... Enough to remind us of some memories of Namibia.
If one thinks that desert landscapes can get boring, one has not seen Wadi Rum! Indeed, the latter is endowed with many natural wonders (mountains, cliffs, rocks, arches, caves and canyons), not to mention several ancient rock engravings and some camels. Enough to give this already remarkable setting even more character.
For our first lunch, we watch Eid with amazement as he starts washing the products... under our vehicle. What freedom to be able to roam in this environment: the mattresses and blankets on the roof, the provisions in the cabin, and our hair in the wind. Completely disconnected from reality, we are living a moment out of time.
The afternoon is dedicated to visiting the Abu Khashaba canyon, a narrow corridor where white sand and red sand meet between two monumental walls. The guides who meet there also take advantage of the layout of the place to challenge each other in an authentic playground.
Then it's our turn to have some fun. Cramped to a rope above the 4x4, we hover from left to right in search of a place for the last light of day. And there is no denying it, the orange tones lend themselves perfectly to this sunset.
Finally, it's time to set up our bivouac for the evening. Eid makes the campfire and cooks while his friend sings melodies to the sound of his mandolin. Framed by homemade lanterns, we realize our luck and try not to lose a crumb of this fascinating setting. Not to mention the gargantuan dinner that awaits us!
For the night, it's easy: everyone takes their gear and camps wherever they want. The goal? Waking up in the middle of nature with the best view. And after 8 hours of restful sleep, the mission is more than successful!
The next morning, we set out for the highest mountains in the region. And if the altitude is nothing like our previous climbs in South America, the panorama facing Saudi Arabia is fantastic. The sand competes for space with powerful geological formations, and we understand why our guide, still wearing his traditional keffiyeh, appreciates coming here. Resourcing guaranteed!
At noon, Eid continues our initiation into its culture when we discover by chance that the desert... is not so deserted. And for good reason! As I move away from the camp, I come face to face with a beautiful snake! Eid comes running... three years he hasn't seen one! After inspecting it and assessing its dangerousness, he believes it is best to kill it and bury it alongside the bird he had just swallowed. Enjoy!
Concerning us, digestion takes place quietly thanks to a short walk leading to a new point of view, always marked by this contrast of dunes and rocks.
And if the day was once again rich in color, we are far from imagining that the sunset and the twilight that we are going to witness will ignite the sandstone mountains surrounding us. The show is spellbinding!
Sheltered from the wind, we set up our camp where we will spend our last evening, during which Eid will not stop sharing his art of living with us with pride and generosity. By the fireside, in a warm atmosphere, we could spend hours watching him, listening to his story and spontaneously humming songs from his childhood and adolescence.
And it is in the heart of the mountains and under a festival of stars that we fall asleep, lulled by the silence and the images of the day.
The next day, it is sad but extremely grateful that we are heading to the exit of the site. We would never have hoped to live one of the most captivating experiences of our trip around the world. Many thanks to our guide Eid, Atallah and Wadi Rum Jordan Guide who put together an unforgettable program.
Dead Sea & Surroundings (19/09 - 22/09)
There is no doubt that we need at least the morning to recover from our expedition and the general intensity of our journey in Jordan. Now alone, we find our accommodation back in Wadi Musa before heading north to the Dead Sea. On the Road of the Kings, we stop at Al-Karak, whose ancient fortress dominates the city. Formerly the scene of many battles, the castle has retained its doors, chapel, keep, glacis and walls.
If we don't get a chance to take a closer look at the architecture of the Crusaders, we for sure don’t forget to eat. And while the small restaurant we have chosen doesn’t necessarily inspire confidence, we know from experience that it is in these kinds of establishments that we live some of the best gastronomic experiences. And as expected, the hospitality, service, quantity and taste are more than expected.
We then take the direction of Wadi Mujib, the “Grand Canyon” of the country. And what better way than an aquatic path to discover it? Equipped with a life jacket and our hiking boots, we embark on a crazy canyoning in total autonomy. Between rocks and ladders to climb, ropes to grab, ponds to cross and biting fish to avoid, we have a blast in this unique environment.
And after fresh water, it's time for salt water! To do this, nothing can be simpler, we just have to park anywhere on the roadside, with the Dead Sea bordering Jordan nearly 50 kilometers to the west.
Towel in hand and flip-flops on, we head off to the beach… of salt. Located 429 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is indeed a salt lake, and incidentally the lowest point on Earth. Impossible to bathe in it as one might imagine, but its high salinity (7x more than in another sea) allows on the other hand... to float! Although not very pleasant, a quick dip in the Dead Sea is still a must. Ideal for those who do not know how to swim, but a little less for travelers like us who make bad faces because of the burns from the travel’s accumulated ailments.
Amman (22/09 - 25/09)
And it is very oily (another good surprise) that we hit the road again for our last stop: Amman. On the advice of locals, we return the rental car at the entrance of the capital, and luckily! Because seeing the traffic and driving here, we tell ourselves that we would not have lasted long!
As soon as we arrive, we notice a simple and unpretentious agglomeration. No skyscrapers and glass buildings, Amman seems to be a city on a human scale despite its four million inhabitants
And if places like Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea have helped to leave the capital in shadow, the latter also has something to satiate the eye and the mind. Among the oldest cities in the world (9000 years old), Amman has indeed seen many civilizations, some vestiges of which still remain. Starting with the citadel which behind its surrounding wall still houses three masterpieces: the Roman temple of Hercules (3rd century), the Byzantine Basilica and the Umayyad Palace (8th century). The ruins, which are still standing, testify to the greatness of the different empires that have seated there.
Overlooking Amman, the citadel is also the best place to enjoy a 360-degree panorama, and from where one can perfectly distinguish the Ancient Theater, once erected for the arrival of the Roman Emperor Hadrian.
We are on a real journey through time when we see the presence of a familiar red flag… You guessed it, we are indeed witnessing the 15th season of Pekin Express live! Needless to say, our excitement is at its peak! Without really believing it, we decide to wait a bit, until we suddenly see the whole film crew, several candidates and our dear Stéphane, who is just arriving!
We don’t forget our stomachs though, and while weighing our chances of making the sixteenth season, we eat at Hashem, an institution. Open day and night since 1956, it is one of the busiest canteens in the country.
Our stay in Amman ends here, and closes our roadtrip in Jordan as well as two years of adventures around the world. But don't worry, because if the trip stops physically, you can imagine that we will do everything to extend it and make it live differently. To be continued...
Highlights
OUR FAVOURITES
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The breathtaking archeological sites
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The lifetime adventures
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The hospitality of Jordanians
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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The lack of public transports
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The value for money (lodging, food, transports)
Budget
