Ecuador
(21/05 - 14/06)
Located between Colombia and Peru, Ecuador has long been an optional destination on the itinerary of our world tour. But the smallest of the Andean countries in Latin America turned out to be a real treasure, as rich in nature as in culture. If we had to give up the exceptional fauna of the Galapagos Islands (not enough budget), we were surprised by the diversity of the rest of the territory. From the Amazon and its remote tribes to the Pacific coast, via the Cordillera de los Andes and its volcanic route, Ecuador alone has most of the attractions of the continent. At an altitude of at least 3000 meters, return on a short journey in distance but physically intense.
Contents
Quito & surroundings (21/05 - 27/05)
As soon as we land at Quito airport, we waste no time and prefer to go directly to Papallacta, a small village an hour away from here. Nestled at an altitude of more than 3300 meters, the town enjoys a humid and relatively cold climate, which will invigorate us after our sunny visit to Bogota.
Lucky us, the area is famous for its thermal springs naturally fed by the Cayambe and Antisana volcanoes. Heated to temperatures of around 70°C, these mineral-rich waters are then collected in open-air swimming pools in which it is possible to relax. This is how we spend a morning warming up at the Termas de Papallacta.
Hungry, we continue with our first lunch. Good news, the menus are organized as in Mexico and Colombia: soup, dish and drink for a small price. New country requires, we are not escaping the culinary specialty: the trout a la plancha.
It’s then time to head back down to the capital for a few days. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Quito is a lively city whose historic center, blending Spanish and indigenous influences, is extremely well preserved. We stroll at our own pace between colonial monuments, baroque churches and other colorful facades.
When time comes to get to the Plaza Grande, we are amazed to see so many security measures. A local tells us that we are some minutes away from witnessing the inauguration of the new president. For the event, many personalities from around the world made the trip, like Brazilian President Bolsonaro (still WITHOUT his mask) or the King of Spain. Two hours later, and here we are, finally in front of Guillermo Lasso, the new Ecuadorian head of state.
We end our discovery of the city with the incredible Basilica del Voto Nacional, a huge Gothic building whose towers are more than 100 meters. To reach its summit, we must first pass through a rickety wooden plank under the main roof before climbing a series of ladders and stairs. Adrenaline guaranteed, followed by a breathtaking view of the city.
We will also remember for a long time the moment when, perplexed in front of her seafood soup, Anouck asks for a suitable fork and finds herself with a wooden hammer to try to dismember her crab without sending projectiles to her neighbors.
And as the country is best known for its location on the equatorial line, we don't miss La Mitad del Mundo (“the middle of the world”), the site marking the imaginary separation of the two hemispheres. The opportunity to do some scientific experiments related to physical attraction, but also to take several funny pictures!
Cotopaxi & Quilotoa
(27/05 - 31/05)
We leave the capital for one of the highest active volcanoes in the world: the famous Cotopaxi, a must-see in the country. Very popular with mountaineers, it is also accessible for hiking enthusiasts because of its ease. But if the climb is not technical, the altitude can quickly compromise the climb. Located in the heart of the Andes, the Cotopaxi rises up to 5897 meters, making it the second highest peak in Ecuador. First step to get there, 1 hour by bus from the capital. This is the big positive point here: the small size of the territory excludes long journeys, allowing us to plan less and better enjoy our days. We are dropped off at the edge of a fast lane, where a car wastes no time in picking us up. We then discover our magnificent accommodation, with a view on the Cotopaxi please!!
For the first time this week, the weather is clear and we can see this giant of nature and its almost perfect snow-covered cone!
It already sounds exciting for the next day! After an alarm at 7am and a champion's breakfast, we are ready for the excursion!
Accompanied by our guide Francesco, we begin our approach to the volcano in a 4x4 and already, the Cotopaxi is revealed in all its splendor. The surrounding national park and its 33,400 hectares are just as captivating!
After an hour's drive, we arrive at the parking lot since the rest has to be done… on foot! Let's go!
The weather is definitely with us throughout the climb, as we have the privilege to admire postcard-like landscapes under a totally uncovered sky. The progression is easy although slow in order to escape the dreaded mountain sickness.
It takes a little less than an hour before we reach our goal: the refuge at 4,864 meters above sea level. We continue a few dozen meters higher to reach the glacier and the symbolic bar of 5000m. A record for both of us, and in front of a sumptuous panorama!
For the summit, an acclimatization night, special equipment (crampons, helmet, ice ax, etc.) and a few hundred dollars more are needed. We therefore naturally take the wise decision to go down, still amazed by this disproportionate setting.
We get back to our accommodation quickly… maybe too quickly! While we have to watch out for the change in altitude on the way up, we should not have underestimated the descent in terms of altitude sickness. Obviously, what had to happen happened, since in the evening I found myself with a terrible headache and nausea… We'll remember for the next time!
A day of rest is therefore much needed before heading to one of the most impressive sites in the Ecuadorian Andes: the Quilotoa lagoon. The day starts badly, since we make the two hour trip under the rain and thick fog. But the weather gets better just at our arrival, allowing us to appreciate this emerald green water in the crater of an ancient volcano. At 3800 meters above sea level, the lake, about three kilometers in diameter, is surrounded by several mountains of the Cordillera.
Chimborazo & surroundings
(31/05 - 03/06)
Before tackling the famous colossus, we decide to get to Salinas (de Guaranda), a small village totally off the beaten track. And as we get closer, we realize how far our new destination is from conventional tours. After a bus of more than two hours, our second vehicle drops us off at an intersection in the middle of nature: "wait there, someone will come by". Ok... 20 minutes later, and we quickly understand that we will have to hitchhike. Luckily, it doesn't take long before a truck stops by... Comfortable, except for Anouck, who finds herself straddling the edge of the already full pick-up!
The locals seem surprised but delighted by our arrival. No wonder, since we quickly realize that we are the only tourists here! However, there is something to visit, or rather something to taste! Salinas is indeed famous for its various cooperatives: salt mine, cheese, chocolate, textiles, essential oils... We spend the morning discovering these local companies whose know-how is well-known throughout the country.
Formerly very poor, Salinas is today a true model of inclusive development. The village owes this transformation to Antonio Polo, an Italian missionary who, in order to improve the lives of the inhabitants, had the idea in 1971 to create several community micro-enterprises with all the necessary equipment and expertise. The different productions are now marketed nationally under the Salinerito brand, but some are also exported globally. A community tourism project has also been set up, the profits of which are reinvested in education and initiatives related to the empowerment of women.
After this little break off the beaten track, it's time to head out to the great, immense, giant Chimborazo. Culminating at 6263m, it is the highest mountain in Ecuador, and according to some people, the highest peak in the world (as the farthest from the center of the Earth). Our mission for the next day? Accessing the first refuge by car, then the second on foot, and descending everything by mountain bike. In short, another great idea from Anouck, which seems quite unreal from our hotel window.
First doubt when the agency supposed to be the most famous in the region comes to pick us up: the guide who drives a family 4x4 is accompanied by his wife, his 5-year-old son and a friend of his... Well, we don’t question ourselves more... The atmosphere is jovial and that’s the most important! On the other hand, it would be great if the sky could clear up a little bit, because the thick fog invading the landscape is starting to make us a bit worried! We even begin to regret our excursion and to consider a cancellation… And then suddenly, a thinning! Good thing, we have just arrived at the Hermanos Carrel refuge at 4800m, behind which stands the monumental Chimborazo!
We strengthen ourselves before starting our small ascent to our second stop. On the way, we pass several memorials, as if to remind us that the mountain is no joke and should not be underestimated.
The air becomes thinner, the breath becomes shorter, the legs get heavier, but after an hour of effort, we finally reach the Whymper refuge at just 5000m. The view of the overhanging volcano is even more impressive. From here it takes eight hours of hiking to reach the snow-capped summit!
We push a little further on the snow line until we reach a small alpine lake located at 5100m, now our new altitude record. Beyond that point, we would have needed to be experienced and have ice climbing equipment.
We quickly regain the first refuge where we are handed our new transportation toys. A few pedal strokes to check the brakes and suspensions, and off we go for more than two hours of descent! Sometimes blind in the clouds, sometimes in a semi-desert volcanic setting, we follow the zig-zag track that shakes drastically from time to time. Fortunately, the bikes are of good quality to amortize the terrain.
8 kilometers and 450m of vertical drop lower, and here we are back at the entrance of the Chimborazo reserve. We continue on an asphalt road and let ourselves be carried away for an hour through the metamorphosed valley of Rio Ambato. In the end a magnificent day with a completely unknown local family agency, Anouck realizing in the evening that she had confused their phone number with the largest sports company in the city. Thank you Riobamba en Bici!
Baños & Uchuculin
(03/06 - 10/06)
Well rested, we devote the next three days to the Baños region, one of the most attractive in the country. And for a good reason! Besides the bustling city, Ecuadorians and foreigners rush here for its lush vegetation and variety of activities.
We do not escape the mighty Pailon del Diablo ("devil's cauldron"), a 80m waterfall with a deafening noise.
We then board a tarabiata to cross the Rio Pastaza and get a closer look at the famous Manto de La Novia waterfall. Sensations guaranteed aboard this metal basket suspended by cables, invented by the Incas and now used by locals to move from one bank to the other.
And since we didn't have enough, we decide to spend some hours at an adventure park offering zip lines, via ferrata and a suspension bridge. A real treat for a ridiculous price and in a surreal environment (let's keep bungee jumping for next time)!
Located at the gateway to the Amazon, Baños is also a stepping stone to the jungle. We therefore leave the sierra for the selva hoping to discover a little of the largest equatorial forest in the world and the largest reservoir of biodiversity on the planet.
Luckily, we find our volunteer mission in a rural Kichwa community, one of Ecuador's 13 indigenous peoples, some of whom still live in the Amazon. For a little less than a week, we learn alongside Misael and his family about the countless resources of this threatened forest, of which it is possible to live in self-sufficiency if we decide to do so. Food resources, medicinal plants, clothing, jewelry, cosmetic products… “TODO ES POSIBLE EN LA SELVA!” (everything is possible in the jungle). Full story to discover HERE!
Cuenca & surroundings
(10/06 - 14/06)
After this indelible experience, we make our longest trip in Ecuador (10h) to reach Cuenca, the third city in the country. Its many cobbled streets, marble constructions, cathedrals and colorful historic buildings give it a unique colonial character. Its appearance on the UNESCO World Heritage List is justified!
We also meet our French friends we met in Colombia with whom we are organizing an excursion to Cajas National Park. Culminating between 3100m and 4450m above sea level, it is one of the best kept national secrets. And although we are greeted with cold and humidity, we immediately realize the beauty of the valley.
We opt for one of the ten hiking trails offered in order to be able to admire these rich landscapes. Between light rains and clearings, we walk for more than three hours through the park, its tangled forests, its immaculate lakes and its spontaneous vegetation.
We hitchhike back to Cuenca in the trunk of a pickup, a nice way to say goodbye to the country and its unique settings.
Highlights
OUR FAVORITES
-
A small country, little distance between the places, so little time spent in transportation
-
Perfect for adrenaline junkies: many activities to organize and to do
-
Diversified landscapes (volcanoes, cities, mountains, parks, ...)
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
-
More expensive than we could think because of the currency: US $
Budget
