Guatemala
(25/03 - 09/04)
This is the second new kid of the trip and its addition came up naturally. Passing through the state of Chiapas in Mexico, we realized being less than two hours away from Guatemala. The opening of its land border, the lack of a visa and the need for an antigen test (and not a PCR test) have finished to convince us. Much less touristy than its Mexican neighbor, Guatemala also has a lot to offer. Cradle of the Mayan civilization, the country is home to a multitude of hidden treasures despite its small territory. Land of majestic volcanoes and ancient cities but also of colorful cities and other natural resources, we have the feeling that we will live a memorable and authentic experience here. Deservedly...
Contents
Huehuetenango (25/03 - 26/03)
Following an astonishingly (open and) easy immigration passage, here we are in La Mesilla, a border town of Guatemala.
We waste no time and head quickly to the main bus station. As soon as we are noticed, someone jumps on us to find out our destination. About the latter, it’s maybe time we make up our minds! With the uncertainty of public transport for the supposedly closed border, it is true that we preferred to wait before planning. So we get to a city a bit randomly and we tell ourselves that we may well stop and change our minds along the way. Neither one nor two, they take our big backpacks from our hands and throw them on the roof of the bus. And what a bus! In front of us stand imposing school buses repainted and adorned with colorful patterns. It announces the color!
The first few minutes are enough for us to understand why these vehicles are nicknamed “chicken bus” by foreigners. Four on a bench of two people, we are clearly packed like chickens.
After almost 3 hours in these conditions, we decide to go down to Huehuetenango (Huéhué for close friends) to spend the night there. We easily find accommodation before hitting the road the next day.
Today’s program: three new chicken buses, a little less crowded but completely mad. Europa Park is nothing next to that! We have to hold on with all our strength so as not to slip. Fortunately, the magnificent landscapes on the road make us enjoy and allow us to take this racing circuit with more fun.
Antigua (26/03 - 02/04)
Five hours later and here we are in Antigua, considered the most beautiful city in Guatemala. We understand why from our first minutes of walk. With its pretty cobbled streets, its multicolored mansions and its flowery facades, it's hard to resist its charm. Here, only 16 colors are allowed on homes and commercial storefronts. Strict regulations or the price to pay to preserve this formidable authenticity…
Founded at the beginning of the 16th century by the Spaniards to become the capital of the country, it lost its status in favor of Guatemala City due to the many devastating earthquakes to which it is subject. The city was also largely destroyed following the earthquake of 1773, which was responsible for the death of more than 1000 inhabitants. In order not to forget its history, many ruined buildings that withstood the disaster have been left as they are, such as the Cathedral of Santiago and its immense arcades.
Listed as a UNESCO heritage site, Antigua is full of historical treasures. The Casa Santo Domingo is in itself a wonder of curiosities. This former convent renovated and converted into a luxury hotel alone houses more than 130 rooms, a spa, several restaurants and gardens, a church with its crypt, various workshops and shops, not to mention its museums, art galleries and archaeological remains. If we are not spending the night there, we can happily spend the whole day!
A little further, the urban heart is home to the Parque Central and its Fuente de las Sirenas, a fountain erected in 1737. Lung of the city, residents and tourists alike love to bask there with the sound of ice cream vendors, singers and musicians who enliven the place. You can also observe several buildings such as the beautiful San José Cathedral or the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales.
We then enjoy a little chocolate break at Chocomuseo. And if we get lost in the explanations of the chocolate making process, the tasting step gets our full attention.
To digest, we set out to conquer the 320 steps of Cerro de la Cruz, a hill overlooking the city and with a beautiful panorama.
You may have noticed it already but Antigua is surrounded by three giants: the volcanoes of Agua (3766m), Fuego (3763m) and Acatenango (3976m). For us, it is impossible to miss them, they constantly dominate us and are distinguishable on every street corner.
And it’s not Calle del Arco that can say the opposite. It is home to the Santa Catalina Arch, a true emblem of the city and the country. Famous for its yellow color as well as for its large clock, it offers one of the most photogenic views of the former colonial capital with the majestic Agua volcano at the back.
We end our tour with the Merced Church and its impressive white moldings, which make this monument one of Antigua's most recognized architectural works.
About thirty minutes from Antigua, we decide to take a little timeless break in an eco-village created by the local community. Known as Hobbitenango, this place is naturally inspired by the Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit sagas, and upon our arrival we are conquered by our little round house worthy of the Shire.
If the site is aimed mainly at fans of Frodo and Bilbo Baggins, it has something to appeal for any nature lover. Besides a relaxing environment, Hobbitenango has only been designed with sustainable materials and runs completely on renewable energies. Needless to mention the twelve miradors offering a breathtaking view of the Panchoy Valley and the surrounding volcanoes.
And as if that weren't enough, mini-golf, ax throwing, archery and swing activities are organized daily to entertain young and old (especially adults).
If the park closes its doors after dark, we are fortunate, thanks to our overnight stay, to be able to enjoy this magical place on our own until it reopens the next morning. A privilege to wake up and have breakfast in front of these colossal… smoking mountains ???? No, we are not dreaming, we are witnessing one of the frequent eruptions of the Fuego! This excites us well for our next experience…
And what an experience! It was THE ONE who made us add Guatemala to the list! It is no more and no less than the ascent of a volcano. Just that! Located on the Pacific Ring of Fire, the country has the largest concentration of volcanoes in Central America: 37 to be exact, three of which are particularly active and regularly erupting. From Antigua, it is possible to embark on a two-day trek to get a closer look at this exceptional natural phenomenon. We decide to kill two birds with one stone: the ascent of the Acatenango, a sleeping volcano culminating at 3976 meters, while facing the Fuego, an active volcano at an altitude of 3,763 meters. Accompanied by our Guatemalan guide Lionel and two English tourists, we start our hike around 9am. On the program, four to six hours of (physical) climb between dirt road and forest trail, to finish above the clouds.
We finally arrive at our base camp around 1:30 p.m. and are greeted by the majestic Fuego who stands in front of us. We contemplate with enchantment this force of nature when suddenly, an immense clap of thunder sounds and makes us jump. Less than two kilometers from us, the volcano rumbles and wakes up, before spitting out a huge cloud of ash.
Throughout the afternoon, the Fuego alternates between periods of rest and eruptions. Perched at 3750m, we take advantage of the breathtaking panorama, on the lookout for the slightest explosion. The spectacle is extraordinary, both sumptuous and terrifying. We are slowly realizing how lucky we are.
At the end of the day, Lionel suggests that we go see the sunset about twenty minutes away. As the brightness decreases, clouds slowly begin to envelop the volcano, whose noises accelerate and amplify. The sky gradually turns purple, until we can see the Agua volcano in the distance. The atmosphere becomes almost mystical.
And then the show starts! On the way back, the Fuego gets excited and gives us its first glowing eruptions. They're actually the same day and night, but the darkness totally transforms the event. The smoke that rises from the crater turns into blazing jets of lava. Thrown tens of meters high in a deafening din, they then fall on the sides of the mountain and the volcano. A real firework! Fascinated, we stay for hours contemplating these flaming red ashes that light up the sky.
It’s hard to go to bed because we are scared to miss out on an even more impressive explosion. But the morning awakening that awaits us and the now freezing temperatures gently push us towards our tents. Fortunately, the sleeping bags and warm clothes lent by the agency allow us to rest a little. Very little, because it is at 4:00 am that Lionel's “Buenos dias amigas” resonates in our ears. A hot chocolate later and as many layers as possible on us, and we're ready to face the biting cold and the remaining 300 meters of vertical drop. Armed with our headlamps, we try as best we can to move forward on this difficult terrain. But in this volcanic sand, we tend to take one step forward followed by two back. At 4:30 in the morning, we clearly wonder what we are doing here and why we are doing this to ourselves! It takes us 1h30 to understand and see our efforts WIDELY rewarded. 3976 meters (they could have added 34 meters more at this point...). Here we are at the top of the 3rd highest volcano in the country and in Central America!
The 360° sunrise over the region and all its volcanoes is to die for and of course, we never stop seeing the roaring Fuego and its smoke.
As for the descent to the camp, it is done in a flash and... in a straight line! It’s a lot faster, and ultimately a lot less painful. Our guide is thrilled and falls back into childhood!
2h30 of additional descent, and we finally return to the starting point of the trek. We are exhausted, but still amazed at the experience we just shared. We then find Antigua, delighted to be able to get rid of all this ashes and to lie down comfortably with unforgettable images in mind.
Lake Atitlán (02/04 - 05/04)
After a week full of emotions, we take the road to Lake Atitlán. Known as the most beautiful lake in the world, this is a must-see in Guatemala. Many villages have thus established themselves on the sides, each giving off a particular atmosphere and offering a different panorama. Concerning us, we settle in San Pedro La Laguna.
If we do not immediately understand the enthusiasm for this locality that we discover very touristy and not very authentic, it is by participating in the biggest celebration in the country that we change our minds. Easter and the Holy Week are indeed some of the most important events of the year. We thus witness an astonishing procession: bearers dressed in long colorful togas, carrying heavy statues of the Christ, and parading in the streets that have become pedestrianized and adorned with ephemeral carpets, fruits and flowers, all to the sound of a fanfare...
Catholic and pagan beliefs thus blend together perfectly, offering the most surprising spectacle. Here, the Mayan community is very present and imbues the place with a mysterious, almost ecstatic aura. The women still wear the traje, a traditional multicolored clothing that served to differentiate the Guatemalan villages.
This morning re-motivates us and pushes us to better explore the surroundings. So we jump aboard a lancha (local motor boat) to San Marcos La Laguna, the opposite village. And fortunately, because the latter has a setting that is simply breathtaking. The lake, with an area of 130km² and formed 84,000 years ago following a powerful eruption, is overlooked by 3 monumental volcanic cones: the San Pedro (3020m), the Toliman (3158m) and the Atitlán volcano (3557m). The view from here is just perfect. And to think that we almost missed it!
Quetzaltenango (05/04 - 09/04)
Our stay in Guatemala ends around Quetzaltenango (named after Xela), the second largest city in Guatemala. If we do not have the opportunity to visit it, we know that it is also a very culturally rich region. Almost 75% of its population is indigenous and lives to the rhythm of Mayan traditions. And it is precisely within a K’iche association (a Mayan community) that we carry out our volunteering mission. The NGO Chico Mendes, led by Armando, aims to fight deforestation by reforesting forests destroyed by logging, expanding farmland and mining companies. Over several days, we familiarize ourselves with the reforestation process and participate in the activities of the organization. Do not hesitate to click HERE to read the story of our experience. You will also discover our life with Angela's family. We shared everything with them and created indelible memories. The essence of our trip.
Highlights
OUR FAVORITES
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The very present Mayan culture and beliefs
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The powerful nature and the possibility to experience it
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A destination off the beaten track
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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The cost of living (more expensive than we would think, whether for tourists or locals)
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The long and difficult local transportation conditions
Budget
