Colombia
(22/04 - 21/05)
12th destination of our world tour and not the least: Colombia. Very often feared by foreigners because of its tumultuous past, it is nevertheless the favorite country of many travelers. It’s quite simple, it is unanimous among all those we meet. We were therefore eager to restore the tarnished image of Colombia by discovering its population and its incredible biodiversity. From its preserved colonial cities to its snow-capped peaks, through its natural parks and its Caribbean coast, we give you here the detailed story of our month in the kingdom of coffee.
Contents
Villa de Leyva (22/04 - 25/04)
And we start strong! After presenting a dozen papers (including a cancellable ticket for Panama City to prove that we do not intend to settle in Colombia) to the airline and to the Mexican and Colombian immigration staff, we finally reach Bogotá. Without a local SIM card, we have a hard time finding our uber. By mistake, the driver forgets his keys inside the car… We are locked outside, with of course our bags inside, otherwise it wouldn’t be fun. Fortunately, after several attempts, we manage to unlock the car. Direction downtown and our Airbnb. As we suspected, the family with whom we are staying confirms the quarantine of the capital from... this evening, and this for four days. Awesome! And who says quarantine says a strict ban on going out and leaving the city, except in special cases. Anyway, we're stuck here, and it's in front of a plate of plain pasta brought from Mexico that we try to comfort ourselves.
When I wake up, I find an over-motivated Anouck determined to go to the bus station to see what it is. I don’t believe it for a second, so imagine my surprise when she asks me to pack my bag on the way back. "It's all good!" And indeed, by explaining our situation to the authorities, they let us through and even indicate the counter where we can buy our bus tickets. 4 hours of journey later, and here we are as planned in Villa de Leyva.
Founded in 1572, this small town classified as a National Monument has lost none of its yesteryear charm and is committed to preserving its architectural heritage. With its cobbled streets, whitewashed walls, massive wooden doors and elegant flowered balconies, it really feels like we are about to go to ski! A real mountain village atmosphere emanates from here.
Symbol of the city, the immense Plaza Mayor of 14,000m² is surrounded by colonial buildings of dazzling white, including the splendid Church of Our Lady of the Rosario. It is the largest square in the country and one of the largest in all of Latin America!
We do not deviate from our daily dose of vitamin D thanks to the weekly market. But above all, we discover the fabulous Colombian almuerzo: a daily menu including salad, soup, main course, drink and dessert for… 3 €! Verdict: "I already love this country" says Anouck.
Santander Department (25/04 - 29/04)
We continue our journey towards Guadalupe, a small isolated village with a central square adorned with gigantic palm trees and an impressive burgundy-domed church. Seducing!
But if the city has started to attract tourism for several years, it is above all because of its proximity to a certain natural site... To get there, a short hour's hike through the lush green meadows of the region is necessary, which in the end does not displease us!
We finally arrive at Las Gachas, a river feeding several more or less large and deep water holes (up to five meters). In case you were wondering why socks were used, know that they were strongly recommended to us by the locals, as the stones are very slippery. We carefully observe these formations carved directly and naturally by water in a rock with ocher and brown colors before choosing a jacuzzi to relax. Well, that's what we thought! Instead of the hot springs that we had imagined, we see VERY cool and somewhat inhabited water. In short, no hot tub in prospect, but rather a quick dip!
Regardless, we do not regret our small expedition in any way. Rarely mentioned in tourist guides (at least not ours), Las Gachas and Guadalupe nevertheless deserve a detour and a short stay. Delighted to have added them to our itinerary, we are now heading to the famous Barichara. Famous, because this village has been elected as the prettiest in Colombia among 1,100 municipalities! People from Bogota run here every weekend to admire its architectural heritage and enjoy its tranquility. Founded approximately 300 years ago, the city (one of the most preserved in the region) is frozen in time: immaculate houses with orange roofs, colorful doors, cobbled streets, all surrounded by amazing landscapes.
Much of the activity revolves around the central square and its imposing stone cathedral. It is also emblematic of the city and inspired the nickname of the inhabitants, “Patiamarillos” (“yellow feet”), echoing the ocher color of the earth which colors everything down to the shoes of the locals.
Built on the mountainside, Barichara and its many steep streets make us sometimes struggle. Fortunately, we are rewarded at each of its peaks with a bird's eye view of the center and the surrounding valley. For our first moments in Colombia, we are really far away from the dangerous image that is attached to the country!
The next day, we get up early to begin the Camino Real hike, an old paved path connecting Barichara to the village of Guane and which in pre-Columbian times was a main axis of traffic. But faced with a wall of clouds, we have no choice but to give up. Far from capitulating entirely, we repeat the experience in the afternoon. The now clear sky allows us to embark on a pleasant 9-kilometer walk punctuated by beautiful panoramas.
At the end of the Camino, we discover the ancient village of Guane built on the same architecture as Barichara.
Like all travelers taking this walk, we plan to do the opposite route by bus. No need to hurry, the connections are regular and give us time to enjoy an artisanal ice cream with serenity. When it comes the time to ask for a transport, however, we learn that the line is "just" suspended today because of protests. Well then. We try the tuk-tuk guy, who is very happy to double the price. Impossible to negotiate, we pretend to go away... But nothing. NADA. Nobody is chasing us! After consulting each other (and 2 characters a bit too proud), we only have one solution left: returning by foot! Obviously, this direction is less easy since it is almost only uphill, but after a little more than an hour and a half of effort, we finally find our accommodation back. Summary of the day: more than 18 kilometers of hiking and BRO-KEN legs. To make things worse, a torrential rain falls overnight on Barichara, preventing us from sleeping and recovering. It’s exhausted that we get up at 6:45 am to go to the nearby town of San Gil. The program? A great paragliding activity… canceled due to bad weather! Looks like bad luck is chasing us. Anouck tries to ward off the bad luck with a relaxing morning at a spa, but when we go to the station for our night bus and it arrives more than 1h30 late, we understand that we are not at the end of our surprises. Bingo, a group of a dozen tourists WITHOUT (mandatory) masks board the bus and start fooling around. Added to this is an apparently deaf passenger who enjoys video games. Then a driver who is a fan of techno. And to finish the traditional full air conditioning forcing us to accumulate four layers of clothing. And this non stop for... 13 HOURS!
Minca (30/04 - 02/05)
Needless to say, when we get off the bus in Santa Marta, it is a dark and more than disapproving look that we give to all the disruptive passengers. After nearly 48 hours without sleep, we naturally follow up with a 30-minute taxi ride to Minca, then 10 minutes by motorbike to our hotel where our room is... not ready! We wait another 2 hours in the hostel next door before we can finally shower (with ice water) and lie down. The cleanliness of the room and the balcony overlooking the vegetation would almost make us forget this horrible journey...
But the problems continue to follow one another, since we learn by chance, at 5.30 p.m., Minca's very next confinement (in thirty minutes). We are not authorized to leave our rooms then. While we were aware of this measure in the big cities, we had no idea that it was also applied in some villages. Neither one nor two, we cancel the second night of our hotel and book another accommodation higher up in the mountains and very popular among travelers. And for good reasons, the Mundo Nuevo eco-lodge, only accessible by motorbike, is located in the middle of the jungle and thus enjoys an ideal location to relax.
The view over the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is absolutely stunning and allows us to distinguish some native huts below. The latter are part of the Awindua project, the aim of which is to provide housing to the natives offering their ancestral know-how and their bio-construction methods in Mundo Nuevo.
The establishment, which wishes to become self-sufficient by growing its own fruits, vegetables, coffee and honey, also works with many local producers, such as the Candelaria, a coffee and cocoa plantation. Our visit gives us the opportunity to learn more about the different phases of the chocolate making process: harvest and fermentation of cocoa tree fruits, roasting of cocoa beans, grinding, and finally transformation into chocolate paste thanks to the addition of various ingredients (sugar, milk, salt, dried fruits, caramel, etc.).
It is this last step that allows chocolate consuming countries (Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium...) to develop their own recipe and then label it as they wish ("Belgian Chocolate", etc.). Cocoa is actually ALWAYS imported (70% from West Africa thanks to Ivory Coast and Ghana, the remaining 30% being distributed between Indonesia and South America). Obviously the excesses are numerous: the big brands such as Nestlé, Ferrero, Mars, Hershey do not hesitate to use unethical practices (forced labor, child employment, human trafficking, deforestation) to produce more at a lower cost, so that in the end we only find a ridiculous percentage of cocoa in their articles. Beyond condemning these immoral acts, if we wish to enjoy the many benefits of cocoa (nutritional contributions, antioxidant properties, cosmetic virtues), it is better to favor a chocolate with a high cocoa content and therefore resulting from ethical and organic productions.
For our last evening in our little haven of peace, we contemplate a magnificent sunset, perfect to close this parenthesis.
Cartagena de Indias & Surroundings (02/05 - 05/05)
We are then heading to the Caribbean coast and Cartagena de Indias, the jewel of Colombia. On the road, however, we are slowed down by a demonstration. Since the end of April, the country has been shaken by a protest movement against the government and its new tax reform project. The latter foresees, among other things, cuts in social programs, the freeze of salaries in the public sector until 2026, the installation of new tolls, the increase in gasoline prices, and the increase in VAT on many basic necessities (eggs, milk, etc.) and basic services such as electricity and gas. Disgusted, thousands of Colombians have thus decided to take to the streets to express their indignation and general fed up with politics, poverty and inequalities. Although the majority of the protests were peaceful, others escalated into violent clashes between protesters and the police, killing dozens. If the president initiated a social dialogue to try to calm the movement, the Colombians, too disappointed by their government, are now demanding his resignation.
So it's a little later than expected that we arrive in the most visited city in Colombia. Founded in 1533 by Spanish settlers, Cartagena de Indias was heavily influenced by West Africa, its location making it an important trading hub and a key platform for the slave trade during the days of slavery. Afro-Colombians now represent more than 30% of the city's population.
A bit far from the center, Getsemani was also the neighborhood where many West African slaves met, allowing them to recreate their identity. Taking advantage of the need for manpower to make themselves indispensable, they managed to emancipate themselves and gradually made their place in the slave society, until they rebelled and occupied a major role in the revolutionary movement of “Grito de la Independencia” in 1811. The very one which liberated Cartagena from the Spaniards and then set the whole country ablaze for the war of independence, which finally put an end on colonization. Today, the district is considered the true cultural epicenter of the city thanks to the mural art and the numerous frescoes retracing the history of Getsemani.
There is a chilling atmosphere here despite that inhabitants are struggling to keep their homes and not give them to real estate developers who would prefer setting up hotels and businesses like in the historic center. Hopefully, as the latter is listed as a World Heritage Site, the exterior architecture of the buildings can no longer be changed in order to protect their authenticity. The historic center and its 13 kilometers of fortifications is thus perfectly preserved and contains absolutely well preserved colonial buildings.
Like all cities in Latin America, we do not miss the Bolivar Square and its statue of the liberator. Formerly the Place of the Inquisition, this is where the Catholic Church carried out executions. You can also see the sumptuous Santa Catalina Cathedral and its easily recognizable dome.
In Piazza San Pedro Claver, the eponymous church constitutes a beautiful backdrop to the contemporary sculptures of the artist Edgardo Carmona, who wanted to reproduce several scenes of daily life and traditional trades (sewing, dentist, shoe shine...).
Nearby, the Plaza de la Aduana and Plaza de Los Coches concentrated all activities relating to the slave trade during the colonial period. Both overlook the Torre del Reloj, an emblematic monument of the city and which historically represented the only possible entrance to the walls interior.
On the way back, we notice some intriguing door knockers on some of the entrance doors. The latter in fact made it possible to know the occupation of the occupants (lion for a soldier, marine element for a merchant, etc.).
After a day full of colors (and heat), we think that a getaway to the sea would not hurt us. For once, we decide to book an organized excursion. To save time and energy for about the same price as if we would do it on our own. We thus opt for a semi-private half-day on a Caribbean island. Wake up at 6:45 am the next day for what we hope will be a very sunny morning… But obviously it had to rain today. We wait for the shuttle that is 30 minutes late... still in the rain. The bus arrives, and we take our seats in the midst of about 40 other tourists! Well... we will quickly have to review our expectations and forget about the exclusivity. Especially when after more than an hour's drive, it is next to a dozen buses that we are dumped. What a beautiful "Playa Tranquila"!
Luckily, a person comes and points to the lancha on which we will leave the crowded public beach for another less frequented one. And that's the least we can say since when we arrive we are ALONE. Not that bad in the end! The rain has stopped, and the sun is even pointing the tip of its nose! The crystal-clear waters are finally revealed: it's time to take a swim!
Full of vitamins, it is time to continue our journey, but the 14 hours night bus awaiting us do not delight us. Surprisingly, the trip is very pleasant: cool but not freezing, and above all: silent! Enough to rest a little!
Medellín & Surroundings (06/05 - 12/05)
As soon as we arrive at the Medellín terminal, we follow up with another vehicle for the small village of Guatapé 2 hours away. We decide to keep Medellín for later. We take advantage of the good weather to go directly to the Piedra del Peñol, a huge rounded granite monolith planted in the middle of a surreal landscape. We set off (far too quickly) to conquer the 740 stairs leading to the summit in order to access the 360° viewpoint. The panorama is breathtaking, like the stairs. From up there, you can admire the grandiose spectacle offered by the artificial lake and its green islets formed because of the construction of a barrage forty years ago.
After the high reliefs, let’s make way for the colorful bas reliefs of Guatapé. Each house is indeed adorned with zocalos, bright decorations representing simple shapes but also the occupations or passions of the inhabitants (animals, sport, etc.).
The village itself is an explosion of colors: from the doors to the balconies, from the buildings to the houses, from the shops to the restaurants, everything is painted with care. It almost feels like walking through a children's coloring book. We can only smile at so much animation.
Back in Medellín, we respect the confinement of the weekend by renting an airbnb in the city center. Groceries done, we are ready to hibernate! Two days without moving, but not without going forward! We are planning our visit of the city and our next country.
Now up to date, we are in the starting blocks to discover the captivating Medellín. Once renowned as one of the most dangerous metropolises in the world, today it is one of the most welcoming. The capital of Antioquia owes this incredible metamorphosis to an urban plan developed in the 2000s by the Colombian government. Many innovative infrastructures were then inaugurated, including the cable car and the only metro in Colombia. 20 years later, they are still as clean and cheap, and have opened up disadvantaged neighborhoods while reducing crime. In the 1980s and 1990s, entire sections of Medellín were in fact under the influence of drug cartels (cf. Pablo Escobar), who saw the poorest “barrios” as a breeding ground for recruiting young people. The modernization of public transport has opened up new horizons and facilitated the inclusion of these populations in society.
A true model of successful transformation, the Comuna 13 is one of the most secure neighborhoods, whereas before no one dared to come there. We devote an entire morning to its discovery and call on a local guide to better understand its past and its reality. Accompanied by another couple of French travelers, we learn that in the 70s and in the idea of fleeing the violent conflicts of the country, many peasants began to take refuge on the heights of Medellín, creating despite themselves enormous slums.
La Comuna 13 (C13) or La Trece, which brings together 23 of these districts, was created. Abandoned by municipalities that did not have the resources to deal with it, the C13 grows in total anarchy, until it becomes a lawless zone ruled by drug cartels. Its location on the strategic cocaine trafficking axis does not help. Violence inevitably grows, and homicides (up to 7000/year) and kidnappings become the inhabitants’ daily life. La Trece is then the deadliest barrio in Colombia. From the 1990s to 2000, the Comuna 13 falls under the control of guerrillas such as the ELN and the FARCS who want to benefit from the advantageous topography of these neighborhoods (a sloping labyrinth that is very difficult to access for the authorities). While locals initially have a positive opinion of these new anti-drug groups who regularly organize food distributions, peace does not last for long and the commune falls into extortion and renewed violence. It is only in 2002 that the army, with the support of paramilitary militias, finally manages to dislodge the guerrillas and regain control of the C13. Operation Orión, involving 1,500 soldiers, 20 tanks and 2 helicopters, turns the neighborhood into a real battlefield and causes dozens of casualties, most of them collateral.
Once the operation is over and the guerrillas are gone, it is then the paramilitaries who occupy the place for two years in order to carry out the "social limpieza" (social cleansing). All those suspected of having helped the guerrillas are eliminated, with the unofficial state consent. Families are still claiming the bodies of their missing loved ones (more than 130 between 2003 and 2004) buried in a clandestine mass grave, the location of which is only known by the authorities. It’s only in the 2000s that the Trece calms down. For the first time, in 2012, the town decides to invest: they build escalators for the same purpose as the cable cars. Cultural projects (schools, sports halls, street theaters, slides, etc.) are also created at each level of the staircase.
At the same time, more connected inhabitants are developing their own identity through the hip-hop movement. Wall art, graffiti, break dance and music are used as means of expression to (re)trace the history of the neighborhood. To not forget. As in an open book, we dive into the memory of the Comuna 13, from its dramas and struggles to its rebirth and freedom.
Delighted with this immersive experience, we continue with the city center which in comparison does not have much to offer, except the Palace of Culture and the atypical statues of Fernando Botero, or the monument a la Raza in homage to the conquered peoples.
Our Medellín episode ends here, and we can only recommend “the city of eternal spring” whose past has completely blown us away. It's time to leave our new home and head for the green lands of Jardín.
Jardín & Salento (12/05 - 16/05)
Located in the heart of a lush valley, Jardín is one of those pretty rural pueblos that only Colombia has the secret! More than an ode to color (like almost all the villages in the country), it is above all its peaceful and relaxing environment that attracts the paisas (inhabitants of Antioquia) whenever the opportunity presents itself. You just have to see our accommodation and its most refreshing surroundings to understand. Of course, the establishment's wooden structure means that the nights are short and that the slightest gesture wakes you up, but the view is undoubtedly exotic!
To explore the surroundings, we embark on a loop of about ten kilometers through waterfalls, forests, coffee plantations, hills and banana fields. By the way, we make beautiful encounters which are far from leaving Anouck indifferent…
The Café Jardín, which overlooks the city, naturally establishes itself as the ideal place for a few refreshments.
We take the opportunity to discuss the rest of our itinerary, which turns out to be more and more compromised. With the recent protests, many roadblocks have been set up by the demonstrators on the main roads. Bus companies then prefer to suspend their services, forcing us to review our itinerary and adapt it from day to day. Fortunately, other travelers are ahead of us and keep us posted on what is possible and what is not. This is how we are warned that our next destination is still reachable, but that it takes more than two days of travel and six different transports (or the plane) to get there! The calculation is quickly done, we prefer to give up Salento and return gently to the capital where we will inevitably find something to do. We therefore resume our way to Medellín where we plan to take a night bus to Bogota. But obviously, nothing goes as planned, since at the bus station we somehow find a vehicle... for the neighboring town of Salento! Excited to finally be able to continue, nothing manages to stain our enthusiasm: neither the five-hour wait at the terminal, nor the two roadblocks extending the journey by four hours, nor even the total cancellation of transport to Bogota upon our arrival.
Complete denial or crazy enthusiasm, we focus on the present and reassure ourselves: we will always find a solution. In the central square of Salento, we quickly spot a colorful jeep, at the image of the village, the only means of transport for the main attraction of the region. But on the way, a torrential rain decides to show up and makes us temporarily doubt our decision.
Twenty minutes later, the rain has subsided and we are ready to tackle the heart of the matter: the Cocora Valley and its famous palm trees. A species endemic to Colombia, the wax palms of Quindio (Ceroxylon quindiuense) are indeed a real curiosity. Their particularities? The first is that they thrive in a mountainous climate and easily withstand the cold and rain that invade them almost daily. The second and arguably the most impressive is that they can measure up to 60 meters, making them the tallest palm trees in the world.
If the start of the walk takes place in capricious weather, the misty valley is gradually revealed, swept by clouds. In a mysterious atmosphere, palm trees appear out of nowhere and seem endless.
Official symbols of the country, palmas de cera have long been used to extract wax from their bark for commercial purposes. But after being threatened with extinction, they are now protected by the government. And to think that we almost missed this natural treasure!
And since we never do things like everyone else, we take the muddy horse path instead of the walking trail. Seeing Anouck and her blissful smile in front of her four-legged friends, I have a little idea of who is behind this error of path. But for the best, because it allows us to benefit on our own from a privileged panorama over the valley.
Back at our hostel, we try somehow to come up with a plan of action to reach the capital. And as the night brings advice, we quickly let ourselves fall into the arms of Morpheus. 10 hours of sleep recovered, and off we go again for a hectic day of transport. A first hour-long bus, followed by a four-hour minibus, then eight hours in a night bus, and we are safely in Bogota. Except: it's 4am, it's cold, our SIM card is blocked, so we have to wander around the terminal looking for free wifi in the hope of finding accommodation for the next few nights.
Bogota (17/05 - 21/05)
We wait until dawn to reach our new accommodation by taxi, only to see us announce that our room would not be available until 3 pm. Well, it's 7am, we expected it a bit, but we were hoping for a lot... Two hours later and a nap on the reception sofa, and we motivate ourselves to go out and discover the city a little. Public holiday of course, all museums are closed. We therefore choose the historic and colonial district of La Candelaria.
But beware when you move, because you could easily be run over! Like every Sunday, the main avenues turn into giant cycle paths where hundreds of Bogotani people exercise. Cycling, rollerblading, jogging, active walking, the streets are very lively, not to mention the many street vendors and chess enthusiasts.
It is with our arms full of provisions that we finally discover our apartment. For 16 €/night, it was clearly worth it to experience all these adventures!
The next day, we take advantage of the blue sky to go to Monserrate. Place of pilgrimage and symbol of Bogota, this hill culminating at 3152m offers a breathtaking view of the capital. We access it by cable car, and as we climb up, we realize the scale of the sprawling city that stretches indefinitely in front of us.
For our last day in Colombia, we decide to stop by the National Museum. We finally spend two hours there because the building is full of gifts retracing the history of the country. From the pre-Hispanic period to today, including colonization and the constitution of a Republic, this former penitentiary converted into a museum keeps us busy for a whole morning.
We continue with the mercado and a tasting of Ajiaco, a traditional Colombian soup, which is a perfect end to our stay here.
Highlights
OUR FAVOURITES
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The recent and positive transformation of Colombia, from a dangerous country to a safe one, and the possibility to immerge ourselves in its history
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The diversity of people and cultures (Afro-Caribbean, Amerindians tribes, mestizo, mulato, zambo...)
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Very good value for money
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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The inability to explore the whole country because of protests happening at the time
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Stricter covid restrictions
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We felt that Colombians were a little bit "colder" comparing to people from other latin american countries (Mexico, Guatemala), but only in rural places
Budget
