Laos
09/03 - 17/03
After a thorough explorative trip to Thailand, we are now on our way for its Laotian neighbor. Saying that we are looking forward to visiting this country is an understatement: we are so excited! Indeed, less famous than our previous destinations, Laos is one of the least touristic countries in Southeast Asia. If the lack of sea access is probably not unrelated to it, the country is not lacking any assets. Starting with an exciting culture marked by Khmer civilization, Hinduism, Buddhism and then French colonization. The landscapes are very diverse: mountains to the north, numerous rice fields and plantations, multiple waterfalls, the region of 4000 islands to the south and the unmissable Mekong, which crosses the entire territory. All in a warm and authentic atmosphere preserved by mass tourism. A simplicity that reminds us of Burma and that explains our enthusiasm for this new country.
Contents
Luang Prabang (09/03 - 13/03)
Obligatory stop of any itinerary in Laos: Luang Prabang, considered as the cultural capital of the country. It's very simple, once visited, the city is often one of the travelers’ favorites, and we are making no exception to this rule. Well, the presence of bakeries has probably something to do with it ...
But it is above all the peaceful and welcoming environment of the city that immediately wins us over. We are thus enjoying our first baguette sandwich for several months on the banks of the Mekong that runs alongside Luang Prabang.
We decide to spend several days there, just to live at the locals’ leisurely pace. The perfect place to slow down while enjoying.
This is good, because our friend Andrea who shared a part of our adventure in Indonesia has settled here temporarily. This is an opportunity to share with us her new home. And what could be better than cycling around to discover these charming streets that are classified a World Heritage by UNESCO.
During our ride, we notice a huge bamboo bridge spanning the Mekong. During the dry season, it provides access to the villages on the other side of the shore, and during the rainy season, it is destroyed by the water (the crossing is then by boat). The locals rebuild it like this every year!
We end this beautiful day with a tennis game. Beyond being able to get some energy out, it allows us to practice an “ordinary” activity as if we too, were living here.
The next day, we rent a scooter for a day trip. Direction the Kuang Si waterfall. And even if it is the tourist attraction of the region, it is nonetheless a must see in Laos. But there is no question of getting there so easily; first we have to drive a good half an hour through pretty rural landscapes before reaching the spectacular waterfalls.
The site visit begins by crossing the Bear Rescue Center, a sanctuary that collects bears rescued from poaching. We can thus see several dozen black bears who have escaped a tragic fate (domestication, marketing of highly prized legs in Laotian cuisine, extraction of their bile for medicinal purposes). Fortunately, this refuge seems to take great care of them and the playful animals we see warm our hearts.
A few minutes walk later, and we finally reach the goal of our visit: a 50m high waterfall giving birth to the formation of multiple pools of water spread over several levels. A true wonder of nature!
Anouck takes her courage in both hands and decides to go try one of these natural pools. And the least we can say is that it's very fresh! But anyway, swimming in such turquoise water is priceless.
We go up the path and arrive at the highlight of the show: the source of this enchanting setting. We could stay here for hours contemplating this oasis of freshness ...
On the way back, we find it a shame to miss out on local life in the countryside. So we decide to slow down and go a little further to meet the villagers.
Randomly, we take a dirt road at the beginning of which an old wooden sign indicates “Lee 7 Farm”. Curious, we leave the beaten track and follow this lost track in the middle of the rice fields.
We come to a large bamboo house surrounded by fields. This farm has been owned by the Lee family for several generations. One of the seven siblings explains how they grow vegetables and rice and manage to make their own noodles. From the seed to the plate, the entire rice process is detailed to us: planting, harvesting, threshing, drying, milling, mixing the rice flour and water until a dough is obtained, then making the filaments and seasoning. Obviously, the visit ends with a small tasting.
Back in town, we opt for a short stay in the north of the country. We leave our large backpacks in our guesthouse and take enough to hold a few days in our small backpacks. It's good to walk around with 15kg lighter! Direction the bus station and our local minivan for our next destination: Nong Khiaw.
Nong Khiaw (13/03 - 16/03)
Three hours later, we are dropped off at the bus “station”, a small hangar that can accommodate a maximum of five vehicles. We quickly reach the heart of the village where we can finally start looking for our accommodation. We wanted to return to our first love (shitty situations) and find this taste for adventure. This is an opportunity: the weather is fine, it is early, and for once, we are not carrying all our clothes. We are immediately seized by the tranquility of the place. Located 200 km north of Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw borders the Nam Ou river in an exceptional and simple environment at the same time: rocky mountains, caves, forests, rivers, typical dwellings. In short, a paradise for hikes and panoramic views.
Our new HQ found, we are preparing a beautiful program for the next day. Unfortunately, our plans are thwarted by a questionable restaurant (that's what you get when you want to eat all the time ...) who spins us in bed all day…
Too bad, we adapt, and we postpone our activities until later. Time flies and it's already our last morning there. Come on, we get a little motivated, we get back on our feet, and we say to ourselves that a little walk won't hurt us. Well, the little walk looks more like a mini trek, but these two hours of hiking make us a lot of good and allow us to access a fabulous point of view.
So for the curious little ones who, like us, wondered if they didn't have a cataract start with this permanent veil of smoke, the answer is NO. It's just slash-and-burn cultivation, an ancestral agricultural technique using fire as a means of clearing and fertilizing, and still very popular in Asia (despite the lasting degradation of the soil and the pollution caused by this method).
It is rather frustrated that we leave Nong Khiaw, disappointed not to have really been able to visit this village with undeniable charm. Maybe a sign that we will have to come back …
Luang Prabang (16/03 - 17/03)
During the journey back to Luang Prabang, we review our roadmap a bit, but decide to continue our Laotian discovery as planned.
Arrived, we set off on the ascent of Mount Phousi, a hundred meters hill in the center of the old town. 300 steps later, and we finally reach the summit, which overlooks the region. We are right on time for the sunset we are witnessing while enjoying the extraordinary view.
We are about to get down when we hear French speaking. A small group of globetrotters has indeed formed on the heights, and each one has their comments on the current health crisis (Covid19). It is true that in Laos, nobody seems to worry ... suggesting that the country is immune. And it is better not to count on the authorities to obtain first-rate information ... So, we are very attentive to the discussion and the related anecdotes. We learn that Cambodia and Vietnam (our next two destinations) have just closed their borders. Worse still, local people are beginning to reject tourists from countries affected by the disease: one of the couples says they have been kicked out of their guesthouse while another confirms this growing distrust of travelers. We are stunned. We never imagined this type of reaction in Asia that we discovered so welcoming.
It is in silence and with a boiling brain that we return to our hotel. Unfortunately, our research on the net and social networks attest the experiences described. And as if this was not enough, we are learning about the imminent confinement in France, the gradual suspension of all international flights and the closing of borders around the world. In short, we are lost, but we must make a decision quickly. What a beautiful evening in perspective!
We go out to dinner to clear our minds and take a step back from all this influx of information. Our friend Andrea who joins us does not think of going back to Europe, which reassures us only temporarily.
In the end, we agree and make the big decision to stop this wonderful adventure and flight back home. And that's how an evening that was to be one of many in Laos turns into our last evening abroad.
We barely have time to realize that we hasten to the Night Market, the handcrafted night market of Luang Prabang. Not a chance we come back empty-handed, so it becomes a battle to buy souvenirs. A small consolation compared to what awaits us…
Back at the hotel, we prepare our luggage in a hurry and book our first plane ticket to Bangkok for the next morning! A few hours of sleep and we already have to go to the airport. It is a goodbye and certainly not a farewell that we address to Laos, this country which has already charmed us so much despite our brief stay here. See you soon…
COMING SOON: Article about our return journey, the reasons that led us to make this decision and our future adventures.
Highlights
OUR FAVORITES
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The authenticity of the country
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An hospitable culture
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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March is the slash-and-burn season (very foggy landscapes)
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Tasty food, but not as much as its neighbors'
Budget
