Mexico
(10/02 - 25/03
09/04 - 22/04)
It is THE new kid who invited himself to the party. Absolutely not planned at first, yet we have added Mexico to our itinerary for a smooth arrival in Latin America. Ideal to learn Spanish, the country obviously also won us over with its culinary scene, but not only. In addition to the famous Yucatan peninsula bordered by the turquoise Caribbean Sea, all of Mexico is rich in natural and historical heritage: active volcanoes and tropical forests, Aztec pyramids and Mayan archaeological sites, deserts and colonial towns... the country shines by its diversity. We finally choose a west to east crossing from Mexico City to Cancun over two months (we have to!). Bienvenidos to the kingdom of tacos!
Contents
State of Mexico (10/02 - 18/02)
We therefore begin our discovery of the country with Mexico City, the political and cultural capital of Mexico. If we are not usually fans of these large cities which are often very polluted and oppressive, Mexico City surprises us as soon as we arrive with its warm and welcoming atmosphere. Whether at the airport, in the taxi, in the street or at the hotel, whether it is the authorities or the locals, we are greeted with a smile and a lot of sympathy.
We start our visit with the 183-meter-high Torre Latinoamericana to get an overview of the 1495km² megalopolis and its 22 million inhabitants. Simply impressive, and above all no cloud of pollution on the horizon! A positive consequence of the Covid or the alternating circulation recently implemented by the government, we do not really know, but we take great pleasure in breathing fresh air under this beautiful blue sky and beating sun.
Regarding the pandemic precisely, the Mexican authorities have implemented a 4-level color code (red, orange, yellow, green) corresponding to the evolving assessment (every 15 days) of the health situation in each state. The restrictions are thus managed locally and are more or less strict depending on the region. And the least we can say is that we are IMPRESSED! Wearing a mask is compulsory for everyone (including children) away from home, social distancing, distribution of antibacterial gel, temperature measurement and disinfectant mats at each establishment entrance, direction of movement in pedestrian streets and buildings, in short, the measures implemented are multiple and fully respected.
Red light in Mexico city for us, the museums of the capital are temporarily closed. Too bad, because it became an approach almost essential for us to understand a new country. We adapt, and we decide to learn and familiarize ourselves with the Mexican culture by reading before fully immersing ourselves in this new environment. This is how we learn to differentiate between the main so-called pre-Columbian civilizations (living in America before the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1492), namely:
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The Olmecs (2500 to 500 BC): Considered the mother culture of Mexico, the Olmecs established the foundations of writing and of the calendar. They also developed the first techniques of agriculture, architecture and ceramics. Their remains are identifiable with the presence of colossal heads carved in stone in the center of the country.
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The Mayans (-2600 BC to 1520 AD): Recognized as the dominant civilization, the Mayans founded the only complete writing system and developed immense knowledge in mathematics and in astrology used in the construction of their cities. It is possible to admire several sites in Southeast Mexico and North Central America.
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The Aztecs (1200 to 1521 AD): the last great pre-Hispanic empire, the Aztecs were strongly influenced by other civilizations. Followers of human sacrifices intended for the Sun God, they are also at the origin of the construction of present-day Mexico City from which the Emperor exercised his power over a large part of the Mexican territory.
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The Incas (AD 1200 to 1533): Unlike the Mayans and Aztecs who belong to Mesoamerica, the Incas are part of the cultures of South America. We will thus deepen this civilization during our future stay in Peru.
The discovery of America and its many resources aroused the curiosity and the envy of Europeans who multiplied exploration trips and set out to conquer the New World. Unfortunately, the Indians offered very little resistance to the conquistadors who were advantaged by their armor, horses and firearms, and regarded as gods by the indigenous populations. This is how the Mayans, Aztecs and Incas disappeared in a few years, massacred by the Spaniards or decimated by diseases imported from Europe.
Today, the descendants of the Mayan and Aztec survivors live mainly in Mexico and Central America while those of the Incas remain in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. If their way of life is singularly different from that of their ancestors, they have preserved a number of clothing, religious and culinary traditions. Traditions that we obviously can't wait to discover!
After this little point of history, we better understand the cosmopolitan aspect of the capital and its architectural kaleidoscope: buildings from the colonial era, pre-Hispanic archaeological ruins, oversized frescoes, contemporary constructions, colorful alleys... We do not know where to look!
In the Centro Historico alone, more than 1,500 buildings are classified as historical or artistic monuments, so that we quickly decide to extend our stay in Mexico by a few days. Besides the heart of the city, it allows us to explore a few more remote areas. Direction Chapultepec and its green lung, one of the largest urban parks.
We continue with the charming colourful district of Coyoacán. We gladly let ourselves be guided by these impressive mansions and do not miss the famous blue house of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, mythical and emblematic couple and painters of Mexico.
And who says new colors means new smells, and of course, new flavors !! Mexico City alone concentrates all the culinary diversity of the country, where street food is omnipresent: stalls, taco bars, markets… There is absolutely something for all tastes, even more…!
A true culinary melting pot, the city also offers contemporary cuisine through restaurants highlighting regional specialties in dishes combining haute cuisine techniques and traditional Mexican ingredients. This is the case of Quintonil, where we have the chance to celebrate Anouck's 26th birthday.
The results of this first week in Mexico are more than positive, since the capital will have succeeded in sweeping away all our clichés (pollution, covid, security). Our apprehensions unvalidated, it is time for us to set off to meet this promising country. Our arrival at the bus terminal is enough to get rid of our remaining concerns: we are taken aback by so much friendliness, organization and the ease with which it is possible for us to book our tickets.
Time for Teotihuacán, the largest archaeological site in all of Mesoamerica. After an hour's drive, we are dropped off... more than 5 kilometers away from our accommodation! Fortunately, a city employee offers to drop us with… his quad! More incognito, you die!
As expected, the remains (located in the State of Mexico) are inaccessible due to the pandemic. Sometimes this is the price to pay when traveling in Covid time. However, the "City where the gods were born" can still be seen from a little further away from its walls. We decide to cycle around it and thus manage to distinguish the imposing pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. Despite the distance, we are frankly impressed by the sophistication of the Teotihuacán civilization, which without metal tools, draft animals or wheels, and with 3 million tons of stones, managed to erect such structures (70m high and 222m side for the largest) around 200 BC. J.-C...
While several assumptions are made regarding the origin and disappearance of this nameless people, there is no doubt that this was a complex and brilliant civilization.
States of Hidalgo & Querétaro (18/02 - 23/02)
Following this first archaeological visit, we leave the State of Mexico for the one of Hidalgo a little further north and its capital Pachuca. Well, we'll need a little more practice before we get used to the local transport system completely, but after a few twists and turns, we finally arrive at our destination.
We then discover Las Palmitas, the largest mural in Mexico. Inspired by street art and the tradition of the great Mexican muralists, this 5-month project rehabilitated former gang members and instilled a community spirit in this once infamous neighborhood. Repainted in the colors of the rainbow, the 209 homes now form a huge dazzling wave of 20,000 m² absolutely spectacular!
However, we do not forget the city center and its alleys, as colorful as steep
It goes up, it goes up! Anouck groans a little but I motivate her by promising her a breathtaking view…
After nearly two hours of effort and protests, we finally reach our goal and FIND THE DOOR CLOSED. It's 4:56 p.m., and the site that was supposed to close at 5:00 p.m. is already locked. Too bad, a return trip to Rio de Janeiro stretched out its arms to us ...
Annoyed, we still enjoy the beautiful view.
This “little” improvised trip has more than starved us, and we decide to try the local specialty to reward ourselves. Mexican cuisine does indeed has a strong identity, and while general dishes (quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas, etc.) are easily found, each region has its own dishes. Here? Pastes, small pastries baked in a pizza oven and stuffed with various ingredients.
The next day, we go on an excursion to Mineral del Chico, our first “Pueblo Mágico”. Nestled in the Sierra de Pachuca at nearly 2,400 meters above sea level, the charming mining village of Mineral del Chico has been incorporated into Mexico's system of “magical towns” because of its historical, cultural and natural heritage. The main square with the Church of the Purísima Concepción, its wrought iron fountain and colorful houses, as well as our small forest walk testify to this multiple richness.
We continue with the State of Querétaro and its eponymous capital. If the city is not considered to be the most attractive, we are immediately won over by its historical center. Wonderful pedestrian streets, multicolored churches and temples, lively squares, not to mention the viewpoint overlooking “Los Arcos”, the representative aqueduct of Querétaro 1.28 kilometers long...
Note that in Mexico, our bellies never have time to cry out for famine, Anouck is delighted (and relieved)! Mexicans love to eat, and from early morning until nightfall, dining opportunities are never lacking.
We deepen our discovery of the region by a small detour in the pretty village of Bernal, 1 hour away. Besides its peaceful atmosphere and traditional architecture, its main attraction is the Peña de Bernal, a 350-meter-high rock needle considered the 3rd largest monolith in the world.
If the latter seems easy to climb, we can only climb halfway, the summit being reserved for experienced climbers. Regardless, the point of view is already clear and offers us an incredible panorama.
On our way back to the village, we feast on delicious gorditas, baked and garnished tortillas dough, typical of Bernal. In order to not make any mistake, we taste all the flavors: shredded meat, cheese, potatoes, beans, chorizo, etc., all accompanied by our daily lemon water.
State of Guanajuato (23/02 - 28/02)
We don’t stop our discovery there and continue our way to San Miguel de Allende in the state of Guanajuato. It doesn't take long for us to fall in love with this new colonial city. It’s so fun that many American retirees have bought second homes there to spend the winter in the sun. Who wouldn't do the same? With these pretty cobbled streets and ocher and yellow facades, it's difficult to limit ourselves to a few photos. It’s quite simple, the entire city is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inspired by the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the parish of San Miguel Arcángel and its immense pink towers represent the soul of the city to perfection: lively and warm.
Baroque churches, secret patios and shady parks coexist with numerous art galleries and antique shops.
But better to be in good shape to walk the alleys of San Miguel de Allende, especially if like us, you like to get a little higher. The short distances announced are often misleading, because the slopes leading to the belvedere are very steep and real! Fortunately, a good squeezed orange juice gives us some strength until the end.
And then there is especially the lunch in sight, an incomparable source of motivation for you know who! Here we go again for a tasting of tacos and a hearty burrito! A delight! No need to comment on the chocolate-filled churros for dessert, we'll leave you salivating!
Last visit in the north of the central plateau and not the least: Guanajuato. At 2080m above sea level, many describe it as the most beautiful of Mexican colonial towns. A mining city turned into a university gateway, Guanajuato is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and rightly so! Between its nicely planted squares, opulent colonial buildings, and ever more colorful houses, the historic heart is a veritable open-air museum in which we take pleasure to stroll.
Access to the funicular allows us to overlook the city and its hills in no time. What a mesmerizing spectacle! We could stay for hours contemplating this living painting.
The descent is made on foot through dozens of alleys with colorful houses until the famous and tiny “Callejon del beso” (alley of the kiss), 68 centimeters wide! Legend tells the story of a forbidden love between the daughter of a wealthy family and a minor. The latter rented a room in front of his beautiful so that they could exchange furtive kisses from their respective balconies.
Back in the center, we do not miss the Hidalgo market and its unusual architecture, its crafts and of course its products to consume! Our senses awaken slowly but surely, and we finally opt for a good grilled chicken and its golden side.
During our expedition, we use the network of underground tunnels built in the 19th century to mitigate the risk of flooding. It is now used to relieve congestion on main streets. If the freshness is pleasant, we avoid spending time in this labyrinth without any signpost.
What is certain is that it will have put us in the mood for our next experience: the Mummy Museum! Despite the lack of explanation, we are speechless at all these extremely well preserved exhibited bodies. Their discovery dates back to 1865 when the authorities decided to exhume ancient remains in order to make room in the cemetery. Among them, many naturally mummified corpses (including a fetus). Creepy, and a bit scary!
We slowly recover from our emotions before witnessing a magnificent sunset over the surroundings, which gently brings us back to reality.
And if we found Guanajuato already lively during the day, it is in the evening that it wakes up completely, thanks in particular to the “Callejoneadas”, nightly serenades carried out in the streets by the students and interspersed with funny tales and stories. Unfortunately we weren't able to participate, but believe us, we heard them!
States of Puebla & Veracruz (28/02 - 04/03)
After these almost three weeks north of Mexico City, we decide to begin our crossing to the east of the country. Direction Puebla, the fourth largest city in the country. And once again, we are amazed by the cleanliness and modernity of the public transports which makes this seven hour trip a real walk in the park.
Founded in 1531 by Spanish settlers, Puebla is definitely worth a visit. Besides its fame for having been the scene of the battle "Cinco de Mayo" (now a public holiday) during which the Mexican general Zaragosa victoriously defended the city against the French army, Puebla abounds in historical monuments and colorful buildings. Despite its rapid expansion and the growth of its population (1.5 million inhabitants), its old town has retained all of its authenticity. With the central esplanade of Zócalo, the highest cathedral in Mexico, the 70 churches in its only historic center and a good hundred colonial buildings adorned with azulejos (earthenware tiles), Puebla surprises us with the concentration of its cultural richness.
Good start for our next destination Orizaba, considered one of the most interesting towns in Veracruz. Off the tourist trail, it is located closest to Pico de Orizaba, the highest point in Mexico at 5610 meters. And while the plan for its climb quickly crossed our minds, warnings of extreme cold conditions and altitude sickness held us back. We therefore preferred the Cerro del Borrego hill, accessible by cable car, which offers a breathtaking view of the city and the snow-capped summit of the country's highest mountain.
Another and main curiosity of Orizaba, its Palacio de Hierro, an iron and steel pavilion attributed to Gustave Eiffel, built in Paris for the Universal Exhibition of 1889 then dismantled and transported by boat to make it the city hall. It is now home to half a dozen small museums devoted to archeology, the history of beer and the evolution of football, as well as a planetarium and an interactive museum dedicated to scientific discoveries.
Just opposite, the central square with the Parque Castillo and the Catedral de San Miguel Arcángel immerses us a little more in the local life.
We end up by chance (a little forced by Anouck it must be admitted) in a small restaurant with a traditional “menu del dia”: a choice of soup or broth, then rice or pasta, followed by a typical dish and finally a small dessert. All accompanied by bread and fresh fruit juice or lemon water for... less than € 2 per person! The portions are generous, the atmosphere authentic, the staff very welcoming and the food tasty and inexpensive. In short, a formula that suits us perfectly and which allows us to taste several specialties.
For digestion, don't panic, the 2-kilometer path along the river is absolutely perfect! The walk even looks like a safari, with the city having set up several animal enclosures along the route: bears, tigers, hippos, jaguars, coyotes, etc. Although they have been rescued from deplorable living conditions and we appreciate being able to observe them so closely, we are unable to photograph them and prefer to remember our memories of wild animals in Africa.
This is how our stay in Orizaba ends. Direction Oaxaca in the state of the same name, a true cultural crossroad and bastion of Indian identity.
State of Oaxaca (04/03 - 14/03)
The trip (extremely air-conditioned) of more than eight hours instead of six reminds us of many adventures, since the driver turns around halfway without explanation to take another route before getting lost several times. Fortunately, some passengers help and direct him in order to arrive safely at... 2:30 in the morning.
Here we are in the captivating Oaxaca (de Juarez) that we hasten to discover the next day. If there is one city that everyone loves in Mexico, this is the one, and we quickly see why! Named in honor of the native child and the only Mexican Indian president, Zapotec Benito Juarez, Oaxaca is unanimous among locals and foreigners alike. And there is no denial about it, its cobblestone floors, markets, flowering trees, peaceful streets and colorful facades immediately capsize us.
When it comes to animation, you have to go to the zócalo. In the shade of a park and elegant arcades, this pedestrian square is the ideal place to soak up the Oaxaqueña atmosphere. Shoe-shiners and souvenir vendors rub shoulders with balloon sellers and buskers in front of the terraces of cafes and restaurants. In its center stands an imposing 16th century stone cathedral, the construction of which was not completed until 200 years later due to recurrent earthquakes.
A little further, the temple of Santo Domingo is considered the most beautiful church in the city. Among the finely chiseled sculptures of its Baroque facade, the figure carrying a church represents the monk Santo Domingo, founder of the Dominican order who, thanks to strict respect for the vows of poverty, chastity and obedience, protected (to a certain extent) Indians from the excesses of colonialism.
To this spiritual dimension is added the greatest concentration of talent and artistic innovation in the country. Just look at the number of colonial mansions restored and converted into galleries, such as the MACO (contemporary art museum) or the Centro Fotográfico which exhibits the work of talented international photographers.
After a month in Mexico and it must be admitted, more disappointments than gastronomic pleasures, we decide to participate in a local cooking class in order to appreciate all the flavors and complexities. The activity begins naturally with the unmissable shopping at the Benito Juárez market, one of the largest in the city.
Once fully stocked, we discover the kitchen in which we will be initiated. And everything is ready for our arrival! On the menu, five dishes typical of the country under the supervision and the attentive eye of Esperanza. For more than six hours, this Zapotec’s descendant will share with us her culinary secrets inherited from her family.
We start with the inevitable guacamole, made with the proper rules. Locally grown avocados thanks to the country's sun make it even more succulent! We garnish it with red onions marinated in lime, homemade salsa (hot as hell of course), fried tortillas (these, we buy them ready-made) and... grilled grasshoppers! We throw ourselves on it as if it had been 10 days since we had eaten (not on the grilled grasshoppers, on the guacamole of course…). We accompany it all with black sapote juice which we could have passed easily...
Then comes the realization of chiles rellenos, a first for us! While we've noticed it on all restaurant menus, we haven't tested or approved it yet! It must be said that we are often overwhelmed or even scared by the number and content of the dishes offered! Coming back to our chiles, we grill them on the gas to peel them easily, then stuff them with cheese, zucchini flowers and sapote leaves until they can no longer be closed.
Then we whip up snow whites (by hand, that goes without saying) that we add to the yolks; hard to emulate Esperanza’s boost, we lack experience (and strength too). We generously immerse the chiles in the mixture before frying them. A golden rule in Mexican cuisine, always more fat!
We are excited to get down to making the traditional tortillas. Composed in our country of wheat flour, they are here made from corn flour (yellow, blue or white). Watching Esperanza, it sounds so easy... You have to do it a few times before you get a correct one! But we get there, until we discover the soul of an artist! Well, it's true that since we arrived in Mexico, we haven't been a big fan of it. The taste is powerful and quite special. But here, everyone is crazy about it, hence our perseverance. Verdict: they are better than any we've tasted!
Ah this Esperanza, what a magician! And it's not his mole rojo (red mole) that will say the opposite! A gravy sauce of various colors and composition, mole has become Oaxacan's signature dish. Usually made with more than 30 ingredients, it is of greater importance to locals than the meat it accompanies. As for ours, 28 will suffice, which is enough! We fry all the dried fruits and spices (almonds, walnuts, peanuts, grapes, anise, cumin, pepper, saffron, sesame and squash seeds, oregano, thyme, avocado leaves, cinnamon, cloves), as well as onions, garlic and ginger. Then we fry the bread and bananas in the same oil to nourish them with all these aromas. We mix everything to make a more or less thick sauce before adding a good fifteen dried chillies, tomato pulp and chicken broth. We don’t forget three good handfuls of sugar and the final touch: chocolate. This is how we taste the best mole we've ever eaten!
The cooking class is coming to an end, and beyond being more familiar with Mexican gastronomy, we also spend a unique moment thanks to Esperanza, always delighted to answer our questions and share her culture with us. Muchas gracias!
Sated to the extreme, we decide to explore the surroundings, including the famous site of Monte Albán (if the road to reach it had been downhill, we could easily have reached it by rolling!). The former capital of the Zapotecs thrones on a plateau 400m above sea level just a few kilometers from Oaxaca, and offers a 360° panorama over the valley below.
Recognized for its location and unique dimensions, as well as for the remains of its many temples, palaces, high platforms, pyramids, ball courts (sport of the time), tombs, steles and low-relief carvings with hieroglyphic inscriptions, Monte Albán embodies a civilization of knowledge and artistic expression.
Appearing around 500 BC, the city flourished for 13 centuries and became the heart of the Zapotec Empire before being completely abandoned (for reasons still unknown) around 800 AD. It is estimated to have counted until to 35,000 inhabitants at its peak.
On our way to the coast, we decide to make a short stop in the mountains of La Sierra Madre del Sur. Up at an altitude of almost 2,500 meters, the small village of La Venta lives in the clouds. We cover the two kilometers that separate us from our destination on foot, not without appreciating the clean air and the soothing environment that emanates from the surroundings.
Like the large community with an alternative way of life established here, our refuge cultivates its own products, has meditation pyramids and offers “cabañas”, small cozy wooden huts without electricity but equipped with a bathroom and a fireplace. Disconnection and rejuvenation guaranteed (if we forget the three big mice, the water cut-off and the yellow shower that followed…)!
As you might expect, Anouck sees this experience as the perfect opportunity for a horseback ride. Yeah… I let myself be persuaded and quickly found myself in a rustic saddle. And here we are riding in the middle of the Mexican pampas! Anouck is in heaven and calmly contemplates the landscape, while I do my best to steer my stunted mount. "Don't worry, it will come a little easier in every country we do it." Because it's not over?!
Of course, if we could have extended our stay here, we wouldn't have hesitated. However, we must continue our route, satisfied to have added this stop. Time for the Pacific coast!
After 4 hours by minibus, we arrive in Mazunte. Change of climate, change of mood and… farewell to authenticity. Hello, the haunt of foreign surfers, rastas and neo-hippies. Completely confused (and not at all at our place), we focus on the positive, namely international cuisine.
Fortunately, our accommodation (run by a lovely Mexican family) away from the center and its spectacular view make it up for our disenchantment.
In view of the overwhelming temperatures and the surrounding attendance diametrically opposed to our interests, we decide to go out in the morning. The air is much more breathable and except for a few locals who get to work, the streets are empty. We take the opportunity to take the path to the rocky cape of Punta Cometa and its superb panorama of the ocean.
We easily access the adjoining beach completely deserted at this time. Good thing, this is where we plan to picnic for breakfast. Obviously, we can't resist the urge to take a dip, but always with caution, because the waves are extremely powerful.
For the rest of our maritime getaway, we opt for a scooter like in the good old days. Fast and effective. Finally more efficient than fast, since it takes us almost an hour and a half to drive to Puerto Escondido.
From the small coves to the raging waves of the Zicatela Pipeline, surfers and beach lovers alike find what they are looking for, and so do we! After quickly getting ready to bodyboard, we go in search of more sheltered and much more colorful bays.
On the recommendation of our hosts, we stop at Agua Blanca, a small fishing village frequented by locals and therefore less touristy. Everything we love, especially at sunset!
Our coastal break ends on a sweet note in order to prepare us psychologically for the 15 hours of transport that awaits us.
We start our journey with thirty minutes in a “camioneta” worthy of a race, then wait three hours at the bus station before boarding a night bus for the 11:30 hours journey. See you tomorrow!
State of Chiapas
(15/03 - 25/03 & 09/04 - 11/04)
Here we are! In Chiapas! The southernmost state of Mexico and home to the greatest number of pre-Hispanic civilizations. Here, nearly a third of the population is of Native American origin, mostly from the Mayans (90%). No less than 12 different ethnic groups still live in this region with a very rooted identity, the most numerous being the Tzeltals and the Tzotzils. The heritage of the Mayas and the one of the Spanish conquistadors thus coexist closely, like in San Cristobal de las Casas, the cultural capital of Chiapas. Founded in 1528, the city owes its name to the Dominican Bartolomé de Las Casas, Dominican bishop defender of the Amerindians. If the city found itself on the media scene in 1994 when a band of guerrillas (the Zapatistas of the EZLN) temporarily took control with weapons to recognize indigenous rights, prosperity and security now appear to be assured. Some tensions persist, but the movement has preferred to abandon military action in favor of a propaganda campaign. The Zapatistas have since founded several self-governing (and difficult to reach) communities on the fringes of the central state.
With its colonial architecture and colorful facades, San Cristobal inspires tranquility. This mountain village style abounds in small shops, restaurants and cafes, and old Beetles meet on every street corner.
To immerse yourself in the local culture, nothing better than a visit to the markets. The Castillo Tielmans mercado is full of fresh produce while the Santo Domingo one is entirely devoted to Indian crafts.
Museums accurately retrace the customs and living conditions of indigenous communities (archaeological and anthropological remains, various works, traditional medicine, textiles, etc).
As always, we try to gain (sometimes laboriously) some height in order to access the interesting views of the city.
10 kilometers north-west of San Cristobal, we spend a morning in San Juan de Chamula, a small town seemingly unremarkable yet determined to live according to its own rules and customs. The Mexican authorities do not intervene here and the municipality has its own police and justice forces. The inhabitants (from the Tzotzil community) are easily recognized by their traditional white or black lambswool clothing worn by both men and women.
But you have to go down to the central square and its church to truly understand all the uniqueness of this village. If the Chamulas allow visitors to enter, it is strictly forbidden to take any photos inside the building. We will therefore do our best to tell you about our experience within this sanctuary and its particular religious practices. As soon as we enter, we are struck by the mystical atmosphere that emanates from the place. Here, neither mass nor bench, but a ground strewn with pine needles, thousands of candles burning on the ground or on altars, and dozens of men, women and children kneeling and praying in Tzotzil language. Each prayer has its saint (and a statue in his effigy), his number, size and color of candles. The faithful line them up in front of them before lighting them up and communing for their healing (for them or for those close to their family). Some people then take a sip of pox (traditional alcohol) or cola and belch in order to root out the evil and purify themselves. Others sacrifice hens (by twisting their necks) in front of the flames just after they have been rubbed on the suffering person's body to suck out the disease. The Chamulas pray for hours until all the candles are extinguished and can even come back every day until they are healed. We are amazed by what is happening, surprised that the church has never caught fire before, but above all shocked by so much devotion and sacrifice. The exterior is just as unique, and we gaze for a long time at this emerald green facade to recover from our emotions.
Nearby, the cemetery stretches over the remains of an old abandoned church. Colored crosses replace the usual tombstones and indicate the age of the deceased: white for children, green or blue for adults and black for the elderly.
Because of the cultural richness of Chiapas, we are putting all our efforts to find a humanitarian mission in this region. Far from easy as the associations we contact had to suspend or even cease their activities because of the current health crisis. After much research, we discover Ch’ieltik, a local NGO working for more than 10 years for the rights of young indigenous people. Through educational, artistic, sports and cultural projects, the organization's mission is to motivate and encourage indigenous children and adolescents to play an active role in transforming their lives and those of their often discriminated communities. For more than a week, we follow Ch’ieltik and participate in various workshops. You can find the summary of this experience HERE.
During our volunteering, the members of the association (themselves indigenous) are proud to share their culture with us and to show us around some of the natural wonders of their region.
This is how we all find ourselves together in the turquoise (but quite cold) waters of a river perfect for a little swimming lesson. A simple and yet so pleasant moment, exactly what we are traveling for...
We continue with the Lagos de Montebello, a park made up of 50 “small” stunning lakes. We can't get over seeing such landscapes here! It's a bit like Mexican Canada... without the famous poutine!
Speaking of fine cuisine, we do not miss the opportunity to taste some specialties of the country in the team’s company. They take us to their favorite canteens, where we wouldn't dare to go. When it comes to the choice of dishes, we trust them completely, and of course, we are never disappointed!
Our humanitarian mission also makes us realize our proximity to Guatemala. We are indeed less than two hours away from the land border, and the need for an antigen test (and not PCR) makes us hesitate... Come on, it's decided, VAMOS IN GUATEMALA! If we get there...!
Less than a week before we get there and after altering our entire itinerary (including the delay of a flight), we learn of the sudden closure of the Mexican-Guatemalan border. The official reason? To control the spread of the virus. Well. This is the first measure this year... from a country that does not even require any test to enter its territory. We have known more convincing! We dig a little deeper and we discover that it is in fact the United States that asked Mexico to close its land borders because they fear a migratory crisis. In exchange of what? 2.5 million vaccines. You can imagine, we are DISGUSTED!
After some questioning, we think we have nothing to lose by trying. After all, we want to leave Mexico for Guatemala and not the other way around, so... We board a minibus as planned, which drops us off right in front of the Mexican border post. Our passports are stamped in two steps and we are told it will be easy to return. Great! We therefore continue with a taxi to cover the four kilometers that separate us from the Guatemalan border post. Temperature and antigen tests checked, immigration formalities, and here we are without a single hitch in Guatemala!
Two weeks later and we take the opposite route to resume our Mexican adventure! If not for a surprise tax of €25 per person (and the premises of an immigration scandal thinking we are victims of corruption), we are back to Mexico safely and with relief. Back in San Cristobal, we try to organize ourselves to not waste any time for the long journey that awaits us. We finally decide to join a day trip to cover the seven hours of driving that separate us from our destination while visiting the region a little. After a difficult wake-up call at 3:30 am, we discover the roaring turquoise waterfalls of Agua Azul.
We continue with the impressive Misol-Ha, a 35m high waterfall flowing into a basin bordered by tropical vegetation.
The tour ends with a visit of the incredible archaeological site of Palenque. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this ancient Mayan city is one of Mexico’s treasures. Founded by the Mayas around 100 BC, it was only between the 6th and 8th centuries that it reached its peak (50 000 inhabitants!) thanks to the immense influence of King Pakal and his so! Considered the main Mayan ceremonial center of its time, Palenque was abandoned around the 9th century following heavy defeats against other cities in the region. The lush jungle that surrounded it then gradually regained its rights until it covered it and protected it almost completely. It was not until the end of the 18th century that the city was rediscovered and excavated. The park now lists some 1,400 buildings, barely 10% of which have been explored! With residential spaces, pyramids, temples, palaces and funerary tombs, the plan of the city is clearly distinguishable and assumes a perfectly regulated organization. We are blown away!
As our group prepares to return to San Cristobal, we are dropped off at the Palenque bus station where we continue with a 9-hour bus to the very touristy but nonetheless essential states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo.
States of Quintana Roo & Yucatán (12/04 - 22/04)
It is therefore completely exhausted that we arrive in Bacalar at around 3 am. We quickly reach our hotel to recover from the 24 hour drive before starting our exploration of the region. Rested, we set off the next day to discover its main attraction: Laguna Bacalar. Stretching over 42 kilometers in length and only 4 kilometers in width, this immense freshwater lagoon, still preserved from mass tourism, is perfect for some navigation and swimming. More sensitive to the protection of our ecosystem, we opt for a sailboat trip to admire these crystal-clear waters in silence. We directly understand the explanation behind the “seven-colored lagoon”. From emerald green to turquoise blue, water takes on new colours every minute. It is simply stunning!
We obviously do not resist a little dive and are surprised by the softness of the seabed. Sulfur-rich sand naturally acts as a clay mask! We end the excursion with a homemade aperitif while contemplating a splendid sunset.
The next day, we repeat the experience and take advantage of the ideal location of a restaurant in order to access its pontoon. Well, the water is much less inviting, but it is nonetheless amazing.
There is no doubt that this Bacalar getaway makes us even more ready for the Caribbean coast! Direction Valladolid.
Renowned for its relaxed lifestyle, Yucatán’s third city immediately called us out for its authenticity, despite its popularity. In addition to its advantageous geographical location, this colonial city founded in 1543 is in itself a charming stopover.
Enchanted by our last pueblo magico, we do not think that we will be more surprised, especially as our expectations are constantly changing during our travels. And yet ... Have you ever heard of cenotes? From the Mayan word "dzonot" meaning water hole, cenotes are natural underground wells characteristic of the Yucatán Peninsula. There are the result of a unique geological formation dating back to the impact of an asteroid millions of years ago. Over time and erosion, acid rain dissolves limestone and creates or enlarges the cavities created while forming stalagmites and stalactites at the rate of one centimeter every 100 years. Ancient sacred places considered by the Mayas as a gateway to the domain of the dead, cenotes today constitute a place for relaxation. The region is said to have no less than 10,000, of which only a minority has been yet explored. So we are spoiled with choice! Shape, depth and nature vary enormously from one cenote to another. We choose four different ones and spend the day discovering them... by scooter! This is the most economical way to get there, even if we greatly underestimated the heat. The air is burning us and we can't wait to cool off!
Fortunately, the Suytun cenote is close by. Very popular, it is often overcrowded as there are many group excursions stopping there. Luckily, we arrive shortly after it opens and discover the almost deserted cenote. We also understand why it is famous. Hidden in a cave with a skylight, Suytun exudes a mystical atmosphere, and its stone projection (usually emerged) can only delight photography enthusiasts. A very good introduction!
Nearby, the Kaa’pé cenote is open and we are all by ourselves to enjoy it. Not photogenic enough apparently… we'll let you judge!
About thirty minutes away, we set our sights on the cenote Agua Dulce, with the feeling that we are not going to be disappointed. And what an understatement! We are simply in awe of discovering the cave and the natural pool it houses. The surroundings are spectacular... and no one on the horizon! We can't believe that such a place doesn't attract more people. The cenote benefits from both artificial and natural lighting thanks to several openings on the surface, allowing us to admire the lianas and the thousands of stalactites that invade the walls and the ceiling. We don't hesitate a second before getting refreshed! Anouck on his buoy, and I on the strength of my feet. The water (although chilly) is incredibly clear, and we savor this special moment.
NB: the photos do not make justice to the beauty of this place!
Our plethora of cenotes ends with Xcanahaltun. And if we are a little afraid at the beginning that it will not make up to the previous one, we are quickly reassured. Wrongly neglected by tourists, it is distinguished by its partially open vault and the captivating reflections of rock formations on its crystal-clear waters. The wooden platform is clearly an invitation to swim. We cannot decline!
This is how one of the most unusual afternoons of our adventure ended. Delighted, we prepare for our final stop in Mexico: Cancún. Overcrowded and distorted, this is the city we dread the most and which we would have overlooked. But as this is our starting point for Colombia, we have to stop there, at least to do our PCR test. Now that we are here, we might as well have a look to the Caribbean coast ... but no! After 2 hours walking the streets looking for postcards (apparently, people are not sending postcards anymore), we have only one will: to get back to the hotel! The air is stifling, the atmosphere oppressive, the local life non-existent... In short, everything that we flee, and above all the opposite of the welcoming, smiling and authentic Mexico that we have traveled for 2 months. Vamos a Colombia!
Highlights
OUR FAVORITES
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One of the kindest and warmest population of our world tour
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The diversity of landscapes (colonial towns, mountains, archeological sites, oceans, cenotes, waterfalls...)
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The cultural richness
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The ease of travelling and the convenience of the transportation system
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The safety (we felt really safe during the whole duration of our trip and never had a single problem)
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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The extra-touristy region of Yucatan
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The disrespect of tourists towards the Mexican Covid19 measures
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The food that we personally find a little bit overrated (similar and complex tastes)
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The discrimination towards indigenous communities
Budget
In total, we have spent 1232€ per person for 2 months in Mexico (56 days).
