Sri Lanka
11/12 - 08/01
As an “off-road” country in Southeast Asia, Sri Lanka is often excluded from world travellers’ itineraries. However, those who give it a chance are delighted and do not hesitate to speak it as a favorite. This is the choice we made and we don’t regret it at all.
Despite its small size, Sri Lanka offers very contrasting climates and a limited road network, two important elements to consider when drawing the itinerary of the country. Therefore, we favor the famous cultural triangle and the southern part of the country. The north is too difficult to access and the East coast is not recommended during this season.
Contents
Colombo & Surroundings (11/12 - 15/12)
Our arrival at the small airport of Negombo (about 30 km from the capital Colombo) is done with excitement of discovering this brand new country for both of us. Indeed, out of the eight destinations planned in Asia, only two are completely unknown to us: Sri Lanka and the Philippines. We are therefore naturally really excited to discover these mysterious islands!
The city of Negombo does not have much to offer except its proximity to the airport. However, we decide to spend 3 nights there, just the time to recharge the batteries after our trip in Burma, write the blog and wait for the arrival of Marie’s father. Fortunately, the nearby beach allows us to start our Sri Lankan trip in style.
Well, in style... until Anouck’s phone mysteriously stops working. No choice, we head to a local phone store, where we are informed that a special part is needed for the repair. Without any other option and pressed by the time, we accept the proposal and decide to leave them the phone for 10 days, time for us to discover the first part of the country. Confidence is reigning!
Finally, the three of us reunited, we reach Colombo in one hour with a Pick Me taxi (a local Uber) for a quick visit of the capital.
We start with a taste of the national dish of the country: the famous rice & curry, which can be complemented with chicken, beef, fish or seafood. And of course, it’s more tasty eaten with hands!
We then try to cross the city among all the tuk-tuks and manage to end up safely in one piece. Difficult to find its way with all these horns and smoke. We know we will have to accommodate ourselves to this Sri Lankan’s preferred mode of transportation sooner or later though.
We make our way through the bustling bazaar of Pettah, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Colombo, and we get of course jostled by all the people shopping there. Somehow, we manage to reach the impressive Jami Ul-Afar Mosque. With its red and white masonry, it clearly deserves a visit.
The day ends at the seaside, where we discover another typical dish of the country: kotthu. It consists of a dough cut into pieces and sautéed with various ingredients.
We get back to the hotel with a tuk-tuk ride that gives the feeling of being part of a GP race. Very important to hang on to something, as the three-wheel engine zigzags between the cars to save more time. Fortunately, the three of us stick together to avoid a premature descent of this crazy machine (the first of a long series!). We realize that the Sri Lankan journey is going to be full of surprises!
The next day, we get away from the city center to start a morning walk through the largest park of Colombo. The peaceful atmosphere makes us forget the rush of the day before, and the two Buddhist temples on the shore gives us the opportunity to approach the next trip with more serenity.
Galle (15/12 - 17/12)
We decide to start our second journey by train. Often late but rather reliable, it is clearly the best value for long distances. Divided into three classes, it perfectly serves all the big cities of the southern part of the country. The first class (which remains very affordable: not more than 3€ for 3 hours of train) is similar to the one from our home country, but even more spacious. The second class seats look like those of a two-row airplane. As for the third class, it offers perpendicular benches for three people (as in Indonesia). A significant detail: seats in second and third classes are not bookable, so first come, first served, and passengers get piled between the seats until the wagon is completely full! We will experience that a bit later during our trip but for this first, we prefer to ensure a pleasant first class journey.
This takes us to Galle, a must-see destination in the south of the island due to its colonial influence. Built by the Dutch in the 17th century, the historical Fort district is the city’s main attraction. There are many buildings with classic architectures and a plethora of small shops and cafes run by artists. Not to mention the coexistence of several different religious monuments (churches, mosques and temples).
Bordered by the ocean on its three sides, the old city can be admired from the ramparts dominating it (and which continue to protect it, in particular from natural disasters like the 2004 tsunami). The circular way around the fortifications makes it possible to go around the city to see both the historical buildings and the surrounding beaches.
Its ideal location combined with its cultural diversity have made the Fort a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Not far from Galle, we make a short stop at the Unawatuna seaside. For an afternoon, we appreciate the coast’ palm trees and its turquoise waters, and watch with amusement the local children having fun there.
Udawalawe (17/12 - 19/12)
We then drive by taxi to the centre of the country to reach the small town of Udawalawa and its adjoining national park. On the road, our driver insists on making us try a local specialty: buffalo curd accompanied by palm syrup. Rather skeptical when discovering the appearance of this typical dessert, we end up swallowing two whole bowls! So delicious and sweet!
We choose to stay at a homestay, a fairly common form of accommodation in Sri Lanka. Often, they are owned by families who rent some parts of their home to make end of months a little less tight. Breakfast is homemade, dinner (when offered) as well, and we get to receive plenty of travel advice. In short, the perfect experience to get close to locals, meet their fascinating culture and enjoy the legendary Sri Lankan hospitality.
If we chose to visit Sri Lanka, it is also for its incredibly rich and preserved fauna. The country has about 26 national parks, most of which offer the opportunity to observe animals in their natural habitat. If Yala Park is considered the biggest, it is also the most visited. We therefore prefer a more peaceful one: Uda Walawe Park. The chance of seeing leopards is lower there, but it is one of the most famous sites to see elephants, stars of the country. We start our safari around 5 am, at dawn, a time that is more favourable to observe animals, in a jeep suitable for this type of activity. The weather is cloudy, perfect for increasing our chances to spot something.
Barely 10 minutes after entering the reserve, we meet our first herd of elephants. With the motor off and whispering among us, we contemplate these majestic mammals who are rushing to the lake to cool off. A unique spectacle, almost unreal, which we witness with emotion.
Elephants… clearly, they are not missing in that park for sure. Whether alone or surrounded by family, in the thickets, by the water or on the road, these pachyderms are on our way all morning. We experience each encounter like the first, with gratitude and admiration.
We are all speechless when a male elephant heads towards our jeep. Fortunately, he doesn’t seem disturbed and start eating quietly only a few meters from us.
Summarizing Uda Walawe’s park to elephants only would be too simple though. With 31 hectares, the reserve has 43 species of mammals, 33 types of reptiles and more than 180 different species of birds. With eyes wide open, we are amazed to see buffalos, crocodiles, hinds, raptors, birds and an incredible number of peacocks.
The landscapes are also so beautiful!
We finish our tour around 11am, just in time to enjoy our hearty freshly prepared breakfast, perfect to recover for this early wake-up call and process this amazing experience.
Ella (19/12 - 21/12)
We then take the direction of the Dabulla region, famous for its mountains. On the road, we admire the beautiful Rawana waterfalls. 25m high, they are considered the most impressive of the country, and once at its feet, you feel very small!
Afterwards, we reach the small town of Ella, which is now growing in popularity. Indeed, its ideal location makes it a base for many hikes through tea plantations and incredible panoramas. Unfortunately, our projects are disrupted by a crazy weather. The first day is thus marked by a continuous torrential rain, retaining us to get to enjoy all the possible views from the town. In the evening, we learn that a neighboring guesthouse has been affected by a landslide… Fortunately, no casualties have been reported. We hope without much faith that the situation will improve, but a local reassures us by telling us that if there is something we cannot trust here, it is the forecast.
Therefore, we observe with satisfaction the sky clearing up the next morning. Quickly, we grab our backpacks, our water bottles, and put on our hiking sneakers. It is barely 7am and here we are, so ready for our first hike to the Nine Arch Bridge. One hour of walking on a rather rugged path and a few fears later, we reach the famous bridge with nine arches. Built at the time of British colonial rule, this viaduct stretches for almost 100 meters and is still used for train traffic. We admire this must-see attraction before getting back by the railway track.
We take advantage of the appearing sun to continue our hike to the Little Adam’s Peak. We walk through tea plantations before climbing stairs for about 20 minutes. The landscapes are breathtaking and the contrast between the azure sky and the green mountain is striking.
The way back is much faster, and we smile in front of the multicolored clothes spread all over the town. The locals take advantage of each ray of sunshine to dry their laundry as quickly as possible in improbable places (on the ground, roofs and even railroad tracks).
We finally reach our guesthouse, where a typical Sri Lankan breakfast awaits us. This hike has made us really hungry!
Despite weird weather conditions, we consider ourselves lucky to have been able to visit Ella and its surroundings. This was the place we were so impatient to discover and this morning totally exceeded our expectations. Without a doubt, this has been our highlight so far (if we forget the little leeches that got us!).
It’s now time for us to head to our next stop, and this is by train we decide to travel. Arrived 30 minutes early at the station, we walk calmly towards the ticket office. We are surprised to learn that the railway network has been modified, a tree having fallen on the tracks the day before. We need to reach the next station, more than 20 minutes drive away. In a panic, we try to find the fastest way of transportation to get there. Exit the buses whose departure time are not planned and the taxis that cannot be found. Therefore, we opt for the only, beautiful and unique Tuk-Tuk! The three of us, one suitcase, two big backpacks and three small backpacks, our tuk-tuk spins at full speed while we cling to our lives.
We arrive (safe and sound) at the station where we rush to buy our tickets. For this route, no first class because of a lack of… wagons. We get second-class seats, first come, first served… We have to run again! Sorry dad, I promise you can rest after!
Nuwara Eliya (21/12 - 22/12)
The trip to Nuwara Eliya, our next destination, is full of adventures (as it wasn't enough!).
The first begins, of course, as soon as you get on the train. Its arrival at the station is done in an old-fashioned way, with the red and green flag, waved by the signalman. We do not even wait for the full stop of the train to rush into the wagon and find seats. Two seats for three, we are not doing so bad!
Anyway, we do not intend to sit all the way. Indeed, the Ella-Nuwara Eliya train trip is considered one of the most beautiful in the world! And as good adventurers as we are, we decide to appreciate the landscapes the local-way: on the steps of the wagon.
The only advice not to forget is to not lean too much to avoid the tunnel walls and the trees’ branches.
On the road, we also notice the damages of the recent bad weather.
We are gradually gaining altitude and the hundreds of tea plantations, each more beautiful than the other. These wild landscapes impress us and we feel so privileged to be able to admire them with such simplicity. No need for exorbitantly priced national parks, a simple train ride is enough to take all the beauty in!
After our 4-hour trip, it’s tired but amazed that we are finally arriving. We know that this ride will stay in our memories for long!
At our descent from the train, we are surprised by the temperatures’ differences from the stop before. With an altitude of 1900m, Nuwara Eliya is the highest town in Sri Lanka, so the coldest one as well. Time to wear some jumpers! On the road to our lodging, we are surprised by the British aspect of the city. We discover that it was once the favourite holiday resort of English and Scottish pioneers of the tea industry, attracted by the cool climate. Nicknamed “Little England”, Nuwara Eliya thus combines the setting and atmosphere of an old English village with many colonial buildings, golf courses and rose gardens, and the Sri Lankan excitement between dusty alleys, tuk-tuks and local markets.
For your information, coffee trees were among the first plants cultivated in the country. But decimated by an illness, the colonists chose tea instead. The Loolecondera plantation between Nuwara Eliya and Kandy was the one that produced the first tea leaves harvested in Sri Lanka (1867). This success has given the city the status of mountain tea capital. We cannot miss a visit to a factory of this region, so we choose the one of Damro. The production of tea is divided into several phases:
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The first is that of the tea leaves’ harvest, done by women only. Paid a misery (less than 4€/day) for a daily quantity of 16kg of tea leaves at least, the tea pickers are among the poorest people in the country. Their living conditions are very difficult and still considered to be a form of slavery.
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The second is the wilting phase on very long conveyor belts (racks) to soften the leaves in order to dry them.
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Then comes the rolling step to break the cells and release the essential oils from the leaves.
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This is followed by the fermentation stage. The darker the tea, the more fermented it is (so green tea is not fermented). For this, the leaves are spread into rooms at special temperatures to cause their fermentation.
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The high temperature drying phase will then quickly allow the fermentation to stop.
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The tea is then packaged for delivery. Our guide explains us that Damro tea is one of the purest in the world because it is then used for the creation of other teas.
Our visit ends with a traditional tasting accompanied by a tasty chocolate cake!
Kandy (22/12 - 24/12)
Time flies and we are ready for our next destination: Kandy, the second largest city in Sri Lanka. On the road, we make a short stop at the Ramboda falls to enjoy this beautiful panorama.
When we arrive, we stay at Padme’s, with his big smile never leaving him. Throughout our stay with him, he never ceases to inform and advise us, always with humour and kindness. He will drop us off in the city center and its famous Clock Tower after recommending us several places of interest.
Among them, the Peradeniya Botanical Garden, the largest in the country (60 hectares) and considered one of the most beautiful in the world. In addition to its collection of orchids and its impressive avenue of palm trees, the garden is also home to many species of aloe, agave, herbs, as well as fascinating specimens, such as giant bamboos or the cannon ball tree.
When we explain to Padme the rest of our journey, he offers to accompany us during a part of the trip. He will take the opportunity to meet his family north of the country. We accept with great pleasure and load his car for a new adventure.
Halfway, he surprises us by stopping at a renowned spice garden. A French-speaking guide explains us the properties and benefits of several herbs, spices and plants such as cinnamon, cloves, cocoa, nutmeg, sandalwood, cardamom, pepper, aloe vera, turmeric and ginger. So much information, well known in Sri Lanka, which practices a lot of Ayurveda, a traditional medicine using natural products to our ailments and restore our internal balance.
Sigiriya & Surroundings (24/12 - 26/12)
Last stop before our final destination: Dambulla and its troglodytic caves (Golden Rock Temple) dating back over 2000 years. To access it, we must first climb a staircase over 180m high along a rock wall and avoid the dozens of monkeys guarding the temple.
Upstairs, five separate caves house around 157 paintings and statues of Buddha. The first effigies date from the 1st century BC. and the successive kings have added work over the centuries to embellish the sanctuary. Reclining Buddhas, seated Buddhas, covered with gold leaf or simply painted, there is something for everyone. Hindu deities are also represented.
The subdued light of the caves really gives them a sacred atmosphere and a relief to these murals that look like tapestries.
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dambulla is still a high place of pilgrimage today.
The exit from the site also offers a splendid panoramic view of the surrounding countryside and Sigiriya, our last stop.
Rising the central plains, the legendary Sigiriya Rock is arguably one of the most spectacular sites in Sri Lanka. It is therefore natural that we decide to spend a few days here. That’s a good thing, because it’s Christmas Eve, and we have booked cute little bungalows for the occasion. The neighboring hotel also offers a festive meal, and we are amazed by the quantity and variety of dishes available. Bon appétit!
The next day, it’s time to unwrap the gifts! A big thank you for all these nice attentions from France that touch us a lot. Despite the distance, we are thinking so much about you for these celebrations!
Just to eliminate the pantagruelic meal of the day before, we climb the Pidurangala Rock at sunset. The hike is not so easy: vertiginous stairs followed by a little climb between vertical walls… Fortunately, everyone is helping each other, a beautiful symbol during this Christmas day. Once at the top, we are rewarded with a breathtaking view over the surrounding forest. In its center rises the famous and imposing Sigiriya rock, 370m high.
We take this opportunity to contemplate the sun disappearing behind all this vegetation. A spectacle of beauty which is perfect for a 25th of December!
South Coast: from Negombo to Tangalle (26/12 - 02/01)
We are closing the loop with Negombo, where my dad (Marie) is leaving from. When accompanying him to the airport, I’m afraid I won’t be able to check his luggage in with him. Indeed, since the attacks in spring 2019, security measures have been consequently increased.. First check at the airport gate, this is starting well! I explain that I am travelling with my father by showing his boarding pass on my phone and my passport with the same name… it’s ok! Second check at the front doors, I repeat the operation: also working! Nobody questions our unique suitcase for two… The third check is a little more delicate because we have to go through security gates and the employees are very attentive. I ask questions to drown the fish, and it works! We finally arrive at the check-in counter and it’s time to leave. Thank you for traveling around the world to come seeing us dad.
I find myself now alone and have absolutely no idea how to get out of here after all those security checks. I decide to just take the same way back and I am told to be in the wrong direction and then questioned about my flight, my ticket, my non-existent luggage and my intentions. After all of this, I’m finally outside, exhausted from stress at...9am.
I meet Anouck to prepare the rest of our trip in Sri Lanka. With 10 days left to spread over the country, we opt for the south coast where it is much easier to travel around (and New Year under the palm trees… how to refuse?). We thus reach the capital by train, even if Anouck’s feet decide otherwise.
At Colombo station, we smile at the ticket purchase and timetable update systems. An employee manually changes the destination signs and turns the respective clocks by hand.
We smile a little less when the ticket clerk tells us that there are no more places in first class. Ok, back to reality and the budget mode! Let’s go for the second class and its unreserved seats! With our big backpacks, we are a little afraid of the lack of space, especially now with Anouck sick and 30 kg on my back, we are not likely to arrive first in the wagon.
We clearly miss our objective when we find ourselves in the midst of Sri Lankans who are running on the quay. We are shocked when we see some of them falling. As feared, all seats are occupied once boarded. We manage (we don’t know how) to store our luggage on the racks, but we understand that the 3h30 journey will be done standing up like little sausages!
At each train stop, it is the same scenario: dozens of passengers are added. It’s almost to believe that the wagons can get larger. It’s actually us who should shrink a little. It becomes unbreathable and we decide to cut short this inconvenient experience. We spot several places of interest on the guide and plan to get off halfway. “Let’s plan” become the key sentence here since we have to work out an action plan to be able to get off of this train. A strategy is put in place: Anouck will make her way to the wagon door in advance so that she can get off as soon as the train stops. I will take the bags down from the luggage rack to send them to her by the window, before joining her to the platform. On paper, we believe in it, but the reality is slightly different. First failed attempt: the platform is on the wrong side. Fortunately, we planned a B plan with another stop just in case. The train slows down, Anouck tries to move and the other passengers lift her to carry her to the door. I pass the luggage on to her, with the help of my neighbors, but I feel that the driver is taking off the handbrake. No time to think, I rush out of the train… by the window! Mission accomplished, with laughter from locals who congratulate us.
So here we are, in Bentota, without accommodation. At the station, we book our first class tickets immediately for in two days, before finding something for the night. Exhausted, we fall for a guesthouse with a swimming pool, to recover from this adventure. We are greeted with a big smile by Kumudu and her family. The place is very relaxing, located on the edge of a lagoon and surrounded by vegetation.
We take advantage of this little haven of peace mixed with the scent of cinnamon and coconut grown in the family's garden.
Passionate about cooking, the owner grows her own organic spices and vegetables. She also offers us a “small” class the next day, which we accept with great enthusiasm. Accompanied by her sister, she teaches us for almost five hours the preparation of twelve typical dishes of the country while telling us her story.
A memorable and moving experience that we will not forget soon! If one day, you feel like visiting Sri Lanka, do not hesitate to visit this family with a big heart.
We continue towards Mirissa which was our original destination. We are quickly disillusioned though because of the number of tourists. Our arrival at night does not help, and the tarantula which awaits us in the bathroom neither. In short, Anouck is exhausted.
We are not wasting time and we are heading to Tangalle for the New Year. For the first time of the journey, we choose to take the bus. It’s very inexpensive and quite pleasant, until you find yourself in a rather familiar situation.
After 2 hours of driving in these conditions, we are happy to arrive in Tangalle, access point to the great beaches of the southeast Sri Lanka. To be honest, we end up mainly visiting the swimming pool of our hotel, specially booked for the New Year’s Eve. We are celebrating the event by the beach, under 25 degrees and coconut palms, and take this opportunity to wish you all a wonderful year.
Yala National Park (02/01 - 04/01)
2020 rhyming with opportunity, we tell ourselves that we can’t miss the National Park of Yala, less than 70 km away from us. And it is by bus again that we reach Tissa, the ideal base for one of the main attractions of Sri Lanka.
Lacking anecdotes, we immediately correct the situation since Anouck realizes that she forgot her water bottle in the bus. We stay on the main road for a while, hoping to meet the coach again. Having spotted us, the manager of our hotel comes to meet us and asks us what we are waiting for on the road. We explain the situation to him, and he quickly pick up his car. On the road, we scan each driver passing by until Anouck recognizes him. And this is how we end up chasing the bus going at a rather high speed. We almost lose sight of it but we catch up when it stops. We then block its way with the car, and Anouck recovers the precious sesame, which had been kept warm at the front of the vehicle.
In the evening, we set off to explore the city and its local market. This is where the locals shop daily. The products are spread out on the ground and the merchants cheerfully call their future customers.
The next day, we get up at 4:00 am for a full-day safari in Yala National Park, the most popular on the island. Our eyes are hurting, but the excitement of this excursion quickly takes over. Our jeep picks us up 30 minutes later, and we pick up four other people before heading to the park entrance. Divided into six zones, Yala is the largest park in the country (130,000 hectares), but also the most popular, both for local tourists and foreigners.
The reason? Yala Park has the largest number of leopard species in the world. It is also one of the first animals we see. Lying down under a tree in the shade, he seems to digest a good meal and licks his legs. We challenge you to spot it, haha.
We meet another one later in the morning, crossing the road, but the speed and the agility of the animal make us miss a nice shot. Too bad, but we keep this precious image in our memories. The park also has the chance of being bordered by the sea to the east, and it’s naturally that we are having our breakfast organized there. The 2004 tsunami badly affected the reserve, killing 47 visitors who we were eating there.
Among the 300 elephants in the park, we get to observe 10 during the day. Little crush for the youngest, clumsy and who seems to laugh when he practice his favorite activity: eating (ah, that reminds us of someone…).
Despite the abundant wildlife, the forest makes the viewing rather difficult. It is easier to spot animals in glades and near water points, like these herds of deer and buffaloes.
But the eye hardened by our previous safari, we get to see several deer, wild pigs (new favorite animal of Anouck), monkeys, peacocks, mongooses, iguanas and crocodiles.
Over 200 species of birds have also been recorded in Yala, many of which migrate from the north in winter. They often meet on the trees near the water.
We start again the safari around 2pm, after a famous rice & curry and especially a good nap in the jeep. The wind, combined with the noise of the engine and the rugged track are enough to get us tired! The sun is strong, and the heat starts to be felt, judging by the animals that we can see (none). Fortunately, the park also has some of the most beautiful landscapes in the country.
At the end of the afternoon, we manage to be face to face with an elephant mother and her baby. We could spend hours observing them like this.
Our excursion ends with the most beautiful gift. As we drive quietly towards the exit of the park, our driver is seized with a strong craze and presses on the accelerator without warning. We almost get overboard before we understand the purpose of this frenzy: a lippu bear is gently walking on the side of the road. We are very lucky because they are very difficult to spot and they are only a few.
We come back amazed by this experience, even if certain aspects have somehow disappointed us. The park is very popular, especially in the morning for visitors who prefer half-day safaris. There are many jeeps that we crossed with only two passengers… Result, when an emblematic animal of the country appears, vehicles connected to each other via telephone or walkie-talkie are running, until forming a queue in front of him. Jeep filling regulations would be welcome: carpooling = less jeeps = less pollution and noise = more animals and less waiting time to see them.
This is also the reason why we opted for a day safari, so as to get away from the beaten track and explore more remote places, disturbing the park’s fauna as little as possible. More expensive, yes, but more appreciable. The way back is done at sunset, when hundreds of bats leave for a hunt.
As as if we haven’t had enough adventure for today, here we are, in front of the door of our hotel room… without our key. The owner (the same that helped us chase the bus for the water bottle) explains that he has no duplicate because the previous occupants have also lost their key and that he didn’t have the time to go to the locksmith. We return all our stuff… nothing! We call our jeep driver who hasn’t found anything. We even get to him to check it ourselves, but still not key… The key is probably making its own safari in the middle of Yala Park. The manager, now accompanied by his cousin, tries in vain to dismantle the lock. They will finally have to dismantle the bars of the window so that one of us can enter the room and open it from the inside.
Haputale (04/01 - 07/01)
For our last days in Sri Lanka, we decide to go back to the mountainous region of the country that we really loved two weeks earlier. After a VERY good night’s sleep, it is again (and the last) time we choose to travel by bus. Direction Haputale and its hilly landscapes. For that, we will have to change transport twice and pass the famous Diyaluma waterfalls (the second tallest in the country). When we arrive, we immediately feel that this is the ideal place to end this Sri-Lankan journey. The city has preserved the heritage of British tea planters, and the tea plantations stretching in front of us are so magnificent.
Much less touristy than Ella, Haputale is an excellent base for many excursions and hikes. The next day, we decide to rent a scooter to visit Lipton’s Seat, which is said to be offering a breathtaking view of the valley. The ride is in itself already spectacular, and even if it takes us almost an hour to cover 15 kilometers, we appreciate every minute.
The higher you go, the more the sky covers and we are quickly blinded by the thick mist that envelops the hill. An entirely different atmosphere takes hold, almost mysterious, and it is in silence that we continue to move forward.
After paying the entrance fee of the site, Anouck feels something weird on the motorbike while driving, and we notice that the wheel is flat. This seems like a “déjà-vu”...
So stupid, we are 500m from the finish line and 200m from the entrance to the site. We manage to reach the manager of our hotel by phone, who advises us to park the motorcycle on the side and descend the hill on feet to the first village, where we can catch a bus back to the city. This is how we find ourselves wandering in the fog amidst the tea plantations. We prefer to laugh, and we tell ourselves that we came back to our usual dose of little messes.
The sky eventually starts clearing up and we are captivated by the beauty of that place. Worthy of the view from Lipton’s Seat!
We are also lucky to be able to admire the tea leaf pickers working. Despite their difficult conditions, they never stop smiling and sometimes even try to speak a few words of English when they meet us.
After 7km of descent, we arrive at the village and meet the owner of our hotel in a tuk-tuk, ready to collect our scooter. He tells us which bus to take, which allows us to reach our accommodation about 30 minutes later. What an adventure (again)!
We enjoy our last afternoon in a café with a breathtaking view, which is also specialized in the production of berries. It is with two fresh juices that we last contemplate these unique landscapes and immortalize them in our memories.
Our visit to Sri Lanka ends here. We just have to reach Negombo, 8 hours by train, which will turn into almost 11 hours, and from where we will take our plane to Bangkok. Bye Sri Lanka, it's been such a pleasure!
Highlights
OUR FAVOURITES
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The diversity of the country (jungle, national parks, beaches, mountains)
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The hospitality of locals
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Easyness to plan the itinerary
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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Long transportation despite short distances
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Permanent humidity
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Food is not diversified
Budget
