Namibia | Sharing Our World

Namibia

(30/12 - 25/01)

Last stop in the humanity's cradle and not the least: Namibia. It was indeed unthinkable for us to miss this must see of southern Africa. A road trip paradise, the country can be visited by bivouac and offers a considerable number of sites to see. Between Etosha National Park and the Namib Desert, passing through the Naukluft mountains and the wild region of Damaraland, not to mention the coasts of the Atlantic Ocean, there is something for all tastes and colors ! So, let’s go together on a new adventure!

Contents

Rundu (30/12 - 31/12)

After a very comfortable arrival in the country, we expect the usual multitude of buses ready at the border post. We are therefore quite surprised when we find ourselves totally alone upon exiting immigration. Not a single means of transportation. Nada. Not a car, nor a person. We decide to proceed to the only road that seems to serve this crossing point, hoping that something shows up, otherwise we will need to wait (and walk) a long time! On the way, a local assures us that a taxi will eventually arrive and that we must be dropped off at “Eugen”. We follow his advice, although this place does not appear anywhere on our map. Either way, it's not like we have a choice anyway… A little over half an hour later, and here we are at “Eugen”, the PETROL STATION of the region. We quickly understand that this is actually a rallying point for car departures to surrounding towns. In short, a carpooling place. A curfew has recently been introduced in the capital, it is impossible to reach the latter in time. We choose to cut the way in half and easily find a car for Rundu 6 hours away. Let's go for our first Namibian blablacar. Time to lose 4 ears!

Besides their affection for excessively loud music, we notice that the locals are quite speed-oriented, which allows us to arrive well before sunset. This is an opportunity to make all necessary procedures (ATM and SIM card) before leaving the next day at ... 6 am!

In view of the transport system observed the day before, we are optimistic to find a vehicle for Windhoek at the nearby Eugen station. It was a winning bet, since it only takes us 30 seconds to find a car for the country's largest city. We leave for a 7 hour journey. We slowly get used to driving on the left and try to stay awake to the endless straight line that shapes the road. Fortunately, Céline keeps us company and the landscapes are singularly different from those admired previously.

Windhoek (31/12 - 05/01)

It is mid-afternoon and it’s more than delighted that we reach the capital and our long-awaited Airbnb. After two days of travel, there's nothing like a cozy little nest to rest ... without forgetting to celebrate the New Year!

Windhoek confirms our first impression of the country: a reverse culture shock! Coming from Zambia where we were moved by the high level of poverty, we are now struck by the developed infrastructure and the apparent wealth of the inhabitants: large private cars have replaced public transport, small neighborhood shops have given way to the large shopping centers, the architecture is clearly Western and the city has a peaceful atmosphere far from the traffic jams and stress of Lusaka! We understand better why the locals call Namibia Africa for beginners.

Who says new year means new experience, and we are very excited to get prepared for our next adventure: our road trip around the country. After three days of research and dozens of contacts with rental agencies in the capital, we stop on an itinerary and opt for a fully equipped 4x4 with Zambezi Car Rental with full insurance. Given our liabilities with vehicles, it is better to be prepared for any eventuality.

We don’t leave without a very detailed briefing: building up and dismantling of the roof tent, tire pressure, puncture and wheel change, double tank, river crossing ... our new car now has no secrets for us and we are ready to hit the road! Heading to northern Namibia and the famous Etosha National Park.

Etosha National Park (05/01 - 08/01)

Our six-hour drive allows us to refuel with water, food and gas, and to familiarize ourselves with driving on the left as well as with the somewhat unusual traffic signs of the country.

Etosha National Park (05/01 - 08/01)

We are however shocked to come across many slums by the side of the road. If Namibia is one of the richest countries in terms of resources and GDP, the social reality is quite different: the economic inequalities inherited from the apartheid regime persist, so that the white minority which represents less than 10% of the population controls more than half of the national wealth (World Bank). Slums are therefore far from rare and are mostly located on vacant land on the outskirts of large cities. We must admit, we were far from imagining finding a little bit of Zambia in a developed country!

We arrive at the gates of the reserve just before sunset, just at the right time to set up our camp and learn about gas cooking. For a first time, we're not doing so bad!

Wake up at dawn to enjoy the park as soon as it opens. It is in fact before the heat of the day that the probability of seeing wild animals is the highest. And believe us, for this last safari, we intend to put all the chances to our side! Covering an area of over 20,000 km², Etosha National Park is home to 114 species of mammals, 340 species of birds and more than 100 species of reptiles and amphibians. In short, the perfect place to observe rhinos and more felines than in Tanzania. The experience is all the more exciting as it is done on our own, with our own vehicle and therefore at our own pace. We have the freedom to choose our circuit and to stop as we please (without ever getting out of the 4x4 of course) to admire the wild life, like this large herd of antelopes.

Our map of the reserve allows us to locate the water points (natural or artificial) where the animals are most likely to stop for a drink. This is how we come across many zebras and other impalas.

14. Etosha National Park - Charitsaub (4

We are then surprised by our first black rhinoceros who quickly goes to hide in the bushes.

We barely have time to recover from this extraordinary encounter when a giraffe crosses the road just a few meters away.

We take advantage of this quieter time of the day to focus on the beauty of the surrounding plains. The vegetation is so diverse that each turn offers us a new kaleidoscope of colors!

In the center of the park: Etosha Pan, a huge dry salt lake that occupies more than a quarter of the reserve. Known to be visible from space, the name Etosha means "the great white plain", and for a good reason...

12. Etosha National Park - Pan Lookout (

Wildebeests, zebras, oryxes and gazelles are never lacking, just like the ostriches that can be seen by dozens.

As always, we marvel at majestic giraffes, accompanied by their little ones.

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We stop at the sight of a huge rhino on the side. And to think that we almost missed it! We stay several minutes to observe this mammal, still endangered despite the considerable efforts made to protect them.

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We reach our camp at the end of the day where we can admire the sunset over a rather popular lighted oasis.

16. Etosha National Park - Okaukuejo (1)

16. Etosha National Park - Okaukuejo (3)

There is no need to say, our nights in animal parks follow one another and ... are alike. Understand by this that our sleep is repeatedly disturbed by the noises and cries of strange animals. Fortunately, our tent is high enough and no longer on the ground, which reassures us more!

New morning awakening rewarded from our first minutes of driving by an imposing rhino. You might have noticed, his ears are gone, but he is still very impressive.

17. Etosha National Park - Okaukuejo (3)

17. Etosha National Park - Okaukuejo (7)

17. Etosha National Park - Okaukuejo (8)

17. Etosha National Park - Okaukuejo (9)

And since happiness never comes alone, we go on with a huge herd of zebras quenching their thirst, then with two spotted hyenas very attentive to our passage. No matter the country, they still are so repulsive!

18. Etosha National Park - Gemsbokvlakte

And then that’s the holy time! 12 lionesses bask quietly in the tall grass of the savannah under the shade of an acacia tree. On the other hand, still no lion on the horizon ... Regardless, we take advantage of this exceptional moment and contemplate the imperturbable felines with fascination.

We are gently returning to camp for the afternoon when we notice several giraffes and ostriches, staring impassively at us. What a morning!

In view of the encounters of the day, we get thirsty for more… without success. No wild animals (or almost), but an almost apocalyptic setting. Full eyes (and wipers) on!

This is our last night and it's time to move on with our trip. Without much conviction, we decide to make a final loop before leaving the park, and fortunately, since we FINALLY see the beautiful, the great, the incomparable LION. Time stands still and we spend our last moments in Etosha alongside the King of the Jungle. Unbelievable!

It was without counting on a mother giraffe and her baby in the front row to say goodbye. What a departure!

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Come on, this time is the right one, and we drive back through the gates of the wonderful Etosha National Park which enchanted us in all its aspects.

24. Etosha National Park - Anderson Gate

Damaraland (08/01 - 11/01)

The next 300 kilometers we travel give us a taste of our next destination: Damaraland, one of the most arid regions in the world! With its red sandstone mountains, it almost seems like West America!

Damaraland (08/01 - 11/01)

For the night, we choose (thanks to a recommendation and we will quickly understand why) the Hais Ra Tented Camp, a real oasis of tranquility. Due to a lack of tourists, we are the only ones on the site and we are free to choose one of the sheltered locations by the rocks. The setting is unique, in total harmony with the elements that surround it.

This is the opportunity to give you a little demonstration of how to set up our camp. After a few days of training, it now takes us no more than five minutes.

Our first evening is like staying on the moon, the landscape giving us the impression of having landed in another galaxy...

Completely disconnected, we decide together to make the most of this haven of peace and extend our stay by one night. This gives us the opportunity to explore the surroundings the next day, including a site in the Petrified Forest. We indeed notice on the ground many rather heavy stones and strangely resembling pieces of wood. They are in fact trees displaced by major floods more than 250 million years ago, then fossilized thanks to the silica that preserves this wood structure. Now transformed into stones, these pieces of wood are well recognizable and today form a so-called petrified forest in the midst of other very colorful minerals.

We also discover the amazing Welwitshia Mirabilis, the national plant of Namibia and a true botanical curiosity. Its roots, nearly three meters deep, and its long leaves make them withstand high desert temperatures (up to 70°C) and strong winds, and to live for several thousand years.

We end our expedition wandering by the impressive rocks around the camp, further proof of nature's power and our smallness.

Our last sunset offers us a stunning picture, just what we need to keep an even more memorable memory of this heavenly place.

On the way to our future camp, we stop at the famous Twyfelfontein open-air museum. In addition to the magnificent natural setting, the site houses cave paintings dating from 2000 to 6000 years old and mostly representing wild animals. Engraved at the time by bushmen, these petroglyphs allowed nomadic tribes to communicate with each other and indicate their direction and that of huntable mammals.

Even today, Namibia has many different ethnic groups and over a dozen indigenous languages. We continue with the Organs Pipes, gigantic tubes cut by erosion, followed by the burnt mountain which owes its black color to a solidified lava flow.

It’s then time for the Brandberg region and the highest peak in the country. Three ostriches in a hurry appear out of nowhere and cross the road at full speed. A little fun during our monotonous journey to our destination.

Monotonous did you say? And what about this magnificent giraffe staring at us to our right? We don’t realize what’s happening. We didn’t imagine being able to meet such animals outside national parks. That's crazy!

But what's even crazier is our gravel road which gently turns into a Dakar rally. We trust the GPS which has (almost) never failed us and we try to follow the still distinguishable tire tracks. The ravine there on the other hand was poorly distinguished! In my defense, I wanted to trust Anouck and her “let it go”, except that it ended up in a rock. We have to try three times and activate the 4x4 mode to finally extricate ourselves from this situation. More fear than harm, and especially our biggest laugh since the start of the trip.

We do not stop on such a good path since we have to reverse dangerously after taking the wrong road. Discussions are heating up a little bit (especially below 40 ° C), but we quickly find a solution and after a dozen maneuvers, we manage to keep our trip going. At this point and in view of the obstacles encountered, it is out of the question to turn around, we continue at all costs to our destination. Fortunately, the Brandberg in the background motivates us all the way through!

After more than two hours of travel on this rugged terrain (against 45 minutes announced), we finally arrive at the White Lady Lodge. We are amazed to see several normal cars (not 4x4) parked at the front. BUT FROM WHERE DID THEY COME? !! Because of our astonishment, the receptionist explains to us that we simply went OFF ROAD! Nice then! It's official, we immediately award ourselves the status of wild explorers! We won't have stolen our little milkshake by the pool. This is the practical side of campsites in Namibia: you sleep in a tent, but you can also take advantage of the infrastructure offered by the adjacent lodge.

Our well-deserved two hours relaxation allows us to regain some strength to set up our camp just at the foot of the 2573 meters mountain. With such landscapes since the start of the trip, we are far from regretting our choice to camp and we would not exchange our place for a lodge (well, maybe for one night then, but that's it)!

After a good night's sleep, we continue our journey south when the impressive Spitzkoppe Mountain appears in front of us, another geological must-see in the country. If we don't have enough time to climb its peak, we can't resist a short hike on these big rocks. Well, the walk is more like a climbing session, but our efforts are quickly rewarded at the sight of a sumptuous arch and its spectacular panorama.

The place is considered one of the most beautiful camping spots in the country, and even if we decide that we can't sleep there, we decide to take out the stove and the pots and have lunch in this exceptional setting.

It is on this visit that our discovery of the Damaraland region ends and we begin the journey to the open sea. A good breath of fresh air in perspective!

Swakopmund & Walvis Bay (11/01 - 14/01)

Return to civilization two hours later when we enter the colorful town of Swakopmund. The largest coastal city in the country, Swakopmund is also renowned for its historical heritage, starting with its Germanic architecture. And indeed, impossible to escape it. On every street corner, a new colonial building appears and we have the impression of having crossed the ocean.

Swakopmund & Walvis Bay (11/01 - 14/01)

Besides, what a joy to find the latter. After the stifling heat of the Damaraland region, we happily breathe the sea air and enjoy stretching our legs on the beach sand.

The next day, on the recommendation of a local, we decide to explore the region by boat and board a catamaran for a morning cruise in Walvis Bay. We are warmly welcomed by the team of Laramon Tours and their loyal assistant Bobby, a tamed but no less imposing sea lion.

A second sea lion quickly joins the party via the back stairs and sits comfortably on Anouck's lap.

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If we imagined them more timid, the presence of these mammals is hardly surprising. Thanks to its cold waters full of fish, Namibia is home to the largest colony of sea lions (up to 250,000) in the world! Our trip only gives us a brief glimpse of this already noisy and fragrant spectacle!

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The sun shines on the azure Atlantic, offering us ideal sailing conditions but not only...

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About twenty dolphins are coming to us. The clear water allows us to observe them carefully and immortalize them. When the boat moves, it causes an underwater wave allowing the dolphins to move while saving energy but also having fun!

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The return to the port is worthy of a feast and the catamaran turns into a real banquet. On the menu: canapes and other appetizers, but above all a first taste of oysters (renowned in the world) for Anouck. A delight!

We end the excursion with the company of two brawling pelicans. The cruise clearly exceeded all our expectations!

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We barely have time to disembark when we meet our guide for our afternoon trip to Sandwich Harbor. Enclosed between the Atlantic and the Namib dunes, the lagoon is one of the richest in Africa and constitutes a protected nature reserve where many marine mammals and migratory birds are concentrated.

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Only accessible at low tide, Sandwich Harbor is explored by 4x4 accompanied by an experienced guide. We start by walking along the beach and we already feel extremely privileged to witness the natural encounter between the desert and the ocean.

Besides its breathtaking setting, Sandwich Harbor is also considered one of Namibia's most spectacular excursions for its sport aspect (you will understand…). And believe us, we can't wait to hurtle down these gigantic sand walls!

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Adrenaline and thrills are on point in this labyrinth of vertiginous dunes that we crisscross at full speed. A real roller coaster!

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Each ascent sticks us to the seat before offering us a magnificent landscape where the Namibian desert flows into the ocean. Crazy descents follow, which we get never tired of.

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The water filtered through the groundwater feeds the flora and fauna at the foot of the dunes. However, we are always amazed to observe animals and vegetation in this extreme environment.

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We end our car trip with an unplanned lunch and discover several specialties: springbok samosas and oryx balls among others, with a breathtaking view of the dunes.

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In terms of activities, we decide to go fully in with a quad bike ride in this orange setting. Some explanations and hop, we are ready for our one-hour drive.

Like the day before, we are driving in an impressive setting, which reminds us that nature dominates us. It can eat us all!

The guide quickly understands who he is dealing with and increases the pace over more hilly terrain. Strong uphill accelerations, 180° turns then steep descents! We love it!

When it comes time to come home, we have big smiles on our faces, delighted to have been able to make the most out of the region and its many attractions. Our last evening ends with a magnificent sunset by the sea. In just a few minutes, a succession of multicolored paintings emerges before our eyes. Perfect to end our stay in Swakopmund with style.

Naukluft Mountains & Sossusvlei (14/01 > 15/01)

Next step: the Naukluft mountains and the famous Sossusvlei dunes. Along the way, we stop at the Kuiseb Canyon carved by the river of the same name and reputed to have housed two German geologists fleeing the Nazi regime during World War II.

We continue our journey, considered one of the most beautiful in the world. And indeed, the next two hours turns into a dazzling parade of picturesque landscapes.

Naukluft Mountains & Sossusvlei (14/01 - 15/01)

We photograph the sign indicating the location of the Tropic of Capricorn so that in the future we no longer confuse it with cancer's.

We do not miss a little stopover in the charming village of Solitaire (very well named by the way), known throughout the country for its famous apple pie. We are told that the locals make the round trip from the capital in one day to taste it! So it's natural that we want to check his reputation in person. Verdict: delicious!

On the other hand, we quickly lose enthusiasm when the manager warns us about the rivers to be crossed, which are much deeper and agitated than usual due to recent floods. He has to leave us to try getting a 4x4 stuck in a submerged ravine out. Okay… let's take it slow. The sky is darkening and rain is threatening, but the road seems to be in good condition so far. A first stream, then a second, and what was bound to happen happened: a beautiful river is blocking our way. We follow the rental agency's advice to the letter: I go out to check the depth of the water on foot and any hidden potholes. Obviously, I am delayed by one of my flip flops sailing new horizons and its risky rescue.

After careful consideration, we finally decide to turn back, the GPS announcing other rivers before our destination. Too bad, beautiful hikes were reaching out to us, but they too would probably have been compromised by bad weather. This gives us one more reason to come back to Namibia!

We arrive a day earlier than expected at the Sesriem camp, gateway to the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Wake up at dawn, 4:30 am, just time to fold up the tent (we are starting to have a hand) and have a small breakfast, then departure to the Sossusvlei site. The first 65 kilometers of the road are paved, unlike the last 5 kilometers which are on a sandy track. Fortunately, a daily shuttle is provided for this distance. Obviously, we could never have predicted the recent rainfall that has hit the south of the country. The strongest for 10 years, they say! Result? No shuttle, and a road under 50 centimeters of water.

The land is simply impassable. Annoyed, we chat with two other travelers who decide to give it a go. We watch them walk away, then exchange a look: “We didn’t come to Namibia to miss its most beautiful site !! If they go, why don't we?" The goal was to arrive at the foot of the desert before sunrise thanks to the official 5-minute shuttle, then begin the ascent of Big Daddy, the highest dune of the Namib desert (325m) before the great heat of 10am. It is 6.30am, and here we are trudging painfully in the sand, now simply hoping to glimpse our destination.

Although tiring and a bit slippery, the first hour goes relatively smoothly, and the overcast weather gives our new expedition a special atmosphere.

As you can imagine, the rest gets seriously complicated. We have of course lost sight of our predecessors, and now we have to cross muddy streams as best as we can while avoiding quicksand, which considerably slows our progress.

After three hours of walking, we can finally see our objective in the distance. More than a river to bypass and here we are! An almost buried sign confirms our arrival at the most popular of Namibia's sites. It is 9:30 am, successful bet!

The sky is getting cleared, and if we give up on reaching the top of Big Daddy, we still decide to gain some height and climb a part of it. The sand gets in absolutely everywhere: shoes, socks, toes ... But we are sure of it, the game is worth the effort!

We are then rewarded with one of the most beautiful spectacles of our trip: before our amazed eyes, the desert of Namib, the oldest in the world, stretches as far as the eye can see. Fantastic, magical, mythical. The diversity and intensity of the colors are incredible, and the floods give this sea of orange dunes even more character.

We can see the famous Deadvlei valley below, which Anouck joins with a butterfly swim! Of course, the descent is much faster!

A few more meters and here we are at the center of this thousand-year-old ancient theater on which stands a hundred charred acacia trees. Alone in the world at the country's most visited site, the landscape, characterized by cracked white clay soil and the vastness of the red desert in the background, is even more unreal.

We praise our adventurous souls and have no regrets about our morning trip. Only the way back! Fortunately, the sun dried up a good part of the trip. Well almost...

We meet a dozen courageous disillusioned people, probably motivated by our steps. We do not fail to stimulate them by promising them a memorable experience worthy of their efforts. It finally takes us an hour to find our vehicle and twice as much to clean our shoes.

We reach our camp, not without a small detour to the Sesriem canyon, one of the largest in the world (100 kilometers).

Marked by this morning rich in emotions and energy, we prefer to continue our route towards the south and thus involve Sossusvlei in this unique excursion. But what an excursion!

Lüderitz & Aus (15/01 > 19/01)

Two hours on the road later, including two new rivers successfully crossed and a majestic giraffe on the side, and we temporarily take up residence at the charming Duwisib camp in order to recover from this eventful day.

Lüderitz & Aus (15/01 - 19/01)

We take advantage of our little haven of peace with a view of the Duwisib castle a few meters from us. We realize how lucky we are to be able to travel in these conditions: normally, accommodation (campsites included) must be booked months in advance, which could have compromised our visit to the country given our spontaneous way of life.

We continue in greenery towards the south and still cannot get over the variety of Namibian landscapes. Direction Lüderitz four hours away. A city often neglected by travelers because it is far away from the main attractions, which is precisely why we want to spend a little time there.

The initiative is paying off, since we are conquered upon our arrival by all these pretty colored houses. We discover an astonishing village with Bavarian influences and its friendly atmosphere worthy of the 19th century.

The region is also famous for the numerous bays which surround it and which we do not fail to explore. On the program: lunar landscapes, beautiful beaches, a few dolphins, a shipwreck, an imposing lighthouse and lots of wind. It’s sure that after our desert adventures, things are invigorating!

After this breath of fresh air, we are off on a new must-see in the country: Kolmanskop. Founded in 1908 by the German settlers following the discovery of diamonds, the exploitation allows the city to reach its peak in 1920. During its period of opulence, the city sheltered 250 European families and 800 tribe workers. Due to its low population density and the abundance of its diamond resources, Kolmanskop has the highest level of wealth per capita in the world! Shops of all kinds, casino, theater, bowling alley, schools, hospital, power station ... life is luxurious, even importing drinking water from South Africa. A paradise in a hostile land, a pioneer in the railway sector with the construction of a tram line and modern thanks to the development of the first X-ray imaging center in the entire southern hemisphere! However, the city began to decline after the First World War and the gradual fall in the price of diamonds as well as the discovery of other deposits. Completely abandoned in 1954, Kolmanskop now serves as a ghost village (and incidentally a tourist attraction) gradually buried by the sand which reclaims its rights. The site seems frozen in time!

For the last step of the road trip, we choose the Aus mountains, famous for their herds of wild desert horses. Totally adapted to the environment, they are able to live five days without drinking water. Unfortunately, we don't have the opportunity to observe any, forcing Anouck to fall back on beautiful domesticated horses.

However, we finally see several kokerbooms (or quiver trees), a variety of aloes whose barks allow the San people to make arrow cases. A true symbol of the country, one cannot remain indifferent to these magnificent bouquets of stars.

The Klein-Aus Vista allows us to end up on a perfect campsite, between comfort and freedom. Swimming pool under the Namib sun, gourmet stove cooking, dinner under a starry sky. We would almost get used to this way of life!

Last awakening in our roof tent, and we are already nostalgic for this stay on the roads. Anouck has succeeded in her personal challenge: to transform me into a camping enthusiast. I want more... we want more!

The six hours that separate us from the capital go smoothly. We say goodbye to our faithful 4x4, ourselves surprised (and a bit proud) that we have not encountered any mechanical problem... The wheel finally seems to have turned! Thank you Zambezi car rental for making our road trip safe!

Windhoek (19/01 > 25/01)

After nearly three weeks on the trails of Namibia, it is now time for us to get closer to the locals and carry on with our volunteering experience. Surprisingly, offers are scarce and we are struggling to find an association that suits us. We finally choose the NGO Human Dreams e.V., whose mission is to help disabled children from disadvantaged populations. The founder Nicole, already very active in Tanzania and India, initiated the construction of a zootherapy center in the suburbs of Windhoek, not far from Katutura, the country's largest slum. The project is only at its start, and the workload bound to be colossal, but we are more than delighted to be able to contribute to this remarkable project. To find out more, do not hesitate to click HERE.

Unfortunately, the strengthening of European health restrictions regarding Covid and travelers is forcing us to review our plans and our itinerary, and cut this experience short. After barely a week of volunteering, we decide to return to France a few days before setting out on an adventure, where the wind will carry us...

Highlights

Windhoek (19/01 - 25/01)

OUR FAVOURITES

The sensation of freedom offered by the possibility to travel independently
The camping infrastructures, well maintained and benefitting from the adjacent lodges services
The landscape diversity (desert, mountains, ocean, rural areas, colorful cities, national parks…)
The feeling of being tiny in front of a nature that dominates humankind

OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS

Significant budget
The striking economic inequalities: the well-developed cities and touristic sites, next to the neglected and extremely rough slums
The lack of public transports

Budget

Highlights

Budget

SHARING OUR WORLD

A reflection of the planet we share.