The Philippines
(12/01 - 10/02)
Made up of more than 7000 islands, the Philippine archipelago has something to offer to everyone: hikers, divers, lazy people… everyone can find a happy place. With its tropical forests, its volcanoes, its idyllic beaches and the diversity of its seabed, the country is considered one of the most beautiful in the world, and its population, one of the most welcoming. Adventurers that we are, the Philippines directly caught our hearts when we prepared our world tour itinerary. So it’s without a doubt that we decide to spend the maximum number of days authorized by our visa (30) in order to conquer this magical island.
Contents
Manilla - Cebu (12/01 - 13/01)
A must to start our Philippines exploration: Manilla, or rather its airport... Our flight from Bangkok having landed at 1:30 am, we have a little more than 4 hours of connection to try to rest a little. However, between the repeated announcements on the speakers, the discomfort of the seats and above all, the air conditioning that make us freeze, it is a wasted effort. Anouck however seems to be on the right track…
Therefore, we board our plane to the Visayas islands with half-opened eyes. We find ourselves very fortunate when we arrive on Cebu Island and learn about the eruption of the Taal volcano, located 60 km from Manilla, and the cancellation of all flights departing from the capital. Just on time! No victims, but the volcano’s seismic activity remains high, and more than 4000 people are evacuated. Fearing a catastrophic scenario like the 1754 eruption that killed more than a thousand residents, the President recently permanently banned Taal Island.
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The archipelago is among the countries in the world most exposed to natural disasters (earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, typhoons & tsunamis). Therefore, we approach the beginning of our adventure with a little bit of a worry. Once rested, our fear is quickly erased in favor of a strange culture to say the least.
Accustomed since 3 months to a lifestyle marked by the Buddhist religion, street food and Asian writing, we think we are hallucinating when we discover Cebu City:
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The American influence is omnipresent: between shopping malls and fast food chains (local and international), we no longer know where to look. Pizzas, burgers and fried chicken are everywhere, and we struggle to eat healthy.
Another culinary feature is the bakeries on every street corner. Nothing to do with our dear baguettes, here, we savor little brioche rolls.
National sport? Basketball, of course! The country is the best in Asia, and we understand why given the number of fields (improvised or not) present in the city.
The top activity? Karaoke! Regardless of age, place (including work) and musical skills, everyone sings/dances all the time and celebrates… international music.
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Positive point: everyone speaks English, the country’s official language alongside the Filipino. The language barrier is therefore nonexistent, and we are looking forward to being able to communicate easily with the Filipinos and forget the sign language for a while. All the inscriptions are also in the language of Shakespeare… Maybe for once, the problems will stay away from us for a while.
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The Catholic religion is predominant, and there are many religious buildings and signs (crosses and messages in the street, transports, radios, schools, etc.). With nearly 85 million catholics (over 80% of the population), the Philippines is the 3rd largest Catholic country in the world, and the only one in Asia.
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The open-mindedness of the locals is impressive: women have access to all key positions (politicians, mayors, journalists, etc.) despite a still patriarchate culture; the LGBT community is very well accepted and integrated despite the moral principles of the Catholic Church, and cohabitation and divorce are recognized even if remarriage is not yet authorized.
There are still elements that remind us of our presence in Asia, like traditional public transport. There are colorful jeepneys, which are jeeps abandoned by the Americans and converted into local buses. Passengers crowd inside for a ridiculous price, and if there is no more space, there is the roof!
There are also the famous tricycles, which act as local taxis. Take a motorcycle to which you add a bodywork and a small bench on the side, all mounted on a additional wheel, and you get the incomparable Filipino tricycle.
And then there is the locals’ incredible kindness, always smiling, cheerful and ready to joke. Children and adults laugh all the time despite a high poverty rate.
You already guessed, we are rather spoiled in terms of islands to discover! And as the means of transportation are quite limited (plane or ferry), we decide (for once) to go ahead and make our selection from our first day in the country. The big winners are the hilly Bohol, the mysterious Siquijor, the coral island Negros, the remote Siargao and the inevitable Palawan.
Bohol (13/01 - 16/01)
We thus begin our Filipino exploration with a ferry trip. From Cebu City, it takes us approximately 1.5 hours to reach Tubigon, one of the ports of Bohol.
Of course, we choose to stay right in the middle of the island, which does not facilitate its approach. We are offered a direct transfer, but at more than 20 € per head… no thank you, we prefer to manage on our own and familiarize ourselves with public transportation straight away. So we board a first van which, once filled, will accommodate around twenty passengers, the latecomers each having the right to a stool to maximize the number of seats...
With the help of the locals, we embark on a second bus, more spacious, which drops us off at full speed in the desired village.
Proud of us, we don’t stop our good energy and decide to end the journey… on foot. This is how we end up, with almost 20kg on our backs, wandering in the middle of the rice fields in order to cover the 2.5km that separate us from our future bed before it gets dark. What a good idea!
Mission accomplished, and it is in the dark that we get to know our hosts and discover our little cabin for the next three nights.
We have two full days to enjoy Bohol and admire the Chocolate Hills, a major attraction and the main reason for our stop on the island. These 1300 “chocolate hills”, are approximately a hundred meters high, form a geological landscape unique in the world and owe their name to the brown color that covers them during the dry season. After some research, we opt for one of the main activities offered on site: a buggy adventure! A first for both of us. Anouck assures me that this is a guided expedition, which is the easiest way to discover the place.
First doubt when once installed, our guide gives us a tarp to put on our knees. Second doubt when we see tourists returning from their ATV tour covered in mud from head to toe. Third and last doubt when looking at the road. In short, nothing to do with the quiet walk at the foot of the hills. The cultural excursion quickly turns into a race between (almost) controlled skids and improvised accelerations, the goal being to no longer have an inch of clean clothing/skin on us, of course (Anouck’s rule)!
Two hours later, we are back at our guesthouse, ready to battle ourselves with our brand new natural mask. The 30 minutes’ shower will finally come to an end.
Obviously, we do not miss the sunset over these natural dunes. The legend says that their formation is due to the dispute of two giants who would have turned the valley upside down while fighting. In reality, no scientist has managed to explain their origin. They only know the period of their appearance, which is two million years ago. After an ascent of 200 steps, we reach the best point of view to observe them.
Little fright when Anouck burns herself while getting off the bike on the wrong side. Fortunately, it does not make her suffer. A situation that is to be followed though…
It's time to leave the island for our next destination. In the boarding lounge of the ferry, Anouck finds us a nice accommodation that can only be booked by phone. We use the one of a kind local and manage to contact in extremis the manager who will welcome us at the port.
Siquijor (16/01 - 19/01)
1h30 later, we set foot on Siquijor in search of our new host. As promised, he is waiting for us, delighted to host new heads. As the Kiwi Dive Resort is not registered on any booking platform, the rental only works by word of mouth. Customers makes themselves more scarce compared to other guesthouses available online, but while discovering the place, we think that it is a good idea to keep this little paradise secret in order to preserve it.
Located by the sea, this small complex is made up of a dozen bungalows. Below are the common area and the restaurant with wooden tables, deckchairs and hammocks ... ten meters from the beach. THE DREAM!
We just have to choose our bungalow, a more delicate task than it seems:
There is the cheapest, with a bed, a fan and a bathroom without light. Reasonably priced, especially with the wifi which would allow us to publish our article about Sri Lanka ...
There is the in-between, much more spacious bungalow. It offers the possibility to cook, which would allow us to say goodbye to chicken wings and junk food for a few days. But more expensive and without internet connection…
Finally, there is the high-end, air-conditioned and waterfront bungalow. But clearly off budget…
In short, after more than an hour of reflection (yes yes, that’s much), we opt for the second: food first! We negotiate the price a little thanks to the length of our stay, and manage to benefit from the wifi on the terrace of the first unoccupied bungalow. It is therefore with our headlamps that each evening, we will progress as much as we can on the website (wifi yes, but at very low speed).
We take advantage of the afternoon to do some shopping (we spend almost two hours in the supermarket because it is so difficult to find our way there and to be informed) and contemplate with wonder our first sunset on the island. This beautiful moment announces the color of the coming days! Cannot wait for tomorrow!
Going with the flow is our motto for the next two days. It is therefore on board of our new scooter, backpack on our shoulders and well-filled tupperwares that we decide to go around the island. First stop at Enrique Villanueva beach, which appeals us from the road. An improvised swing calls us on the sand, and we become children again for a while before discovering the surrounding mangroves. This place is idyllic and we are alone in the world to enjoy it.
We find ourselves a quiet corner to enjoy our first healthy Filipino meal. Pasta salad and fruit salad on the menu, a real treat that we appreciate even more by the sea.
We continue towards The Balete Tree, a tree over 400 years old, which makes it the oldest in Siquijor. Considered sacred by the locals, many rituals are performed around it. Another special feature: a little bassin at the foot of the tree acts as a natural fish spa. We try the experience and once our feet plunged, an army of small fishes comes to relieve us from our impurities. We stay there shortly, because it tickles too much!
When we return to the bungalow, we are welcomed with a breathtaking sunset that we admire by the water. On the beach, a four-legged friend is excited to play with us. It reminds us of that good old Gecko.
An evening that we will not forget, especially when we need to turn all our room upside down to sleep peacefully away from the insects. I take care of a spider with a book, but the lizard that got into our mosquito net is more difficult to dislodge. So here we are, at almost midnight, dismantling our entire bed to finally notice that the little animal has mysteriously escaped from the net. Phew! (But doesn’t that mean that the mosquito net is broken...? Well, not a word to Anouck!).
The next day, we take advantage of our motorbike again to go to one of the most beautiful beaches of Siquijor. We are however disappointed by the site, less heavenly and natural than those already explored, not to mention the large number of tourists who rest in in a rather limited area.
It is true that we are now used to the deserted beaches that look like postcards... Naturally, we prefer to return to the seaside of our much less frequented accommodation. To tell the truth, we are surprised by the few visitors met on the island, but everything is explained when we learn about its mystical reputation. Indeed, nicknamed "the island of fire" or "the island of witches", Siquijor is feared by many Filipinos for being bewitched. In any case, we are indeed bewitched and totally charmed by the beauty, the warmth and the peaceful atmosphere of the island. Feeling we keep within us before heading to our next destination.
Negros (19/01 - 22/01)
The much larger island of Negros owes its fame to the richness of its seabed. We choose to stay in Dumaguete, on the eastern coast, so that we are as close as possible to the starting point of sea excursions. Bad luck, it rains almost all of our first day. We take this as an opportunity to go to every city’s pharmacy to find water-resistant bandages for Anouck's leg ... under the rain.
So we are betting everything on the next day and our boat trip to Apo Island. Alarm at 6am, and we head to one of the city's most renowned agencies for nautical activities. Equipped with our vests, masks, snorkels and fins, we board a local minibus to reach the southern tip of the island, where our boat awaits us for the day. Then begins a real adventure punctuated by unexpected encounters, adrenaline and crazy laughs…
The first one arises as soon as we get on the ship. The sea being a little rough, the latter is anchored some thirty meters from the shore. Seeing no rowboat approaching, we quickly understand that we will have to get there on our own, that is to say on foot. First laugh when we watch Asian tourists (very well dressed) astonished by the situation, who are struggling so much. Backpacks brandished above our heads, we prefer to wait for the waves to calm down to advance carefully towards the boat. It’s wet until our necks but it’s laughing to tears that we finally reach our boat. The rest of the day is full of promises!
It takes no more than five minutes after the engine starts for a new rise of laughter. Indeed, as the sea is very rough, the waves makes the ship pitch, rinsing us from head to toe. We prefer to laugh since we are already soaked and enjoy the ride worthy of an amusement park. We get forty minutes of sensations before reaching the adulated Apo Island.
Located 7km from Negros, the small island and nature reserve of Apo is considered one of the best diving spots of the Philippines. On the program: three snorkeling sessions to check the reputation of these seabeds. For three hours, we have the immense chance to admire an extraordinary aquatic fauna and flora. Judge yourself!
Between multi colored corals, tropical fishes and other brightly colored marine animals (starfishes, water snakes, etc.), we no longer know where to look.
But it is the GIANT TURTLES, specific to Apo Island, who will grab our attention. Well, we knew from the start that we would swim with turtles (that was a bit the purpose of our visit), but we wanted to keep you surprised as much as possible. And even if we did know, it’s a whole different experience to actually be face to face with them. How blessed! We feel very small next to these creatures who are so graceful and majestic. They fascinate us, and of course, we make the most out of this nature’s spectacle.
The return journey is just as epic as the outward’s, with a few more waves. Back on the roller coaster, Anouck is over the moon because “it tickles the stomach”. But the funniest will undoubtedly remains the episode of the boat’s docking. After three unsuccessful attempts to get it to the beach due to the wind, the boat drops its anchor about 50 meters from the shore. At this distance, we might as well keep our fins and snorkels to reach the coast! Anyway, we have to swim to the land. Last laugh of this epic journey that had many surprises in store for us.
After a good night's sleep, we are preparing for what will be the longest step of our trip in the Philippines. Our destination? Siargao, at the other side of the archipelago. How do we get there? Nothing could be simpler, just two tricycles, a bus, three ferries and a jeepney. Or 28 hours of transport. Our reward if we succeed? One of the most beautiful island in the world!
Siargao (23/01 - 30/01)
First tricycle to reach the bus station of Dumaguete, where our bus to Cebu City is awaiting us. About 160 km that includes a ferry ride, which we take advantage of to stretch our legs.
Four hours and a few traffic jams later, we arrive in the capital of Cebu, from where we managed to catch a jeepney to the port. Not easy with our large backpacks, but the locals are always present when it comes to helping us.
At the maritime terminal, we book the last seats of the desired ferry (it is full, but apparently the selling agent decides otherwise). It’s a bit of a rush in the departure lounges, which are similar to those of an airport, but we finally reach ours. No time to fool around, we're already heading to the bus that will take us to the boat.
And what a boat! Almost 80 meters long and able to accommodate up to 650 passengers. When we arrive, the cabin crew quickly indicate our beds. For this trip, we travel in "tourist" class (well, we didn't really have a choice as everything was booked). We thus avoid the “economy” class with the beds on the deck and the free cocks, and naturally miss the private cabins.
We leave for nine hours of ferry. Fortunately, it's less terrible than it seems. We travel at night (departure at 7 p.m.), which allows us to rest on the bunk beds provided for this purpose (turns out that the ferry is indeed full).
Arrival in Surigao at 4 a.m. The city is considered dangerous and by mentioning our stop to the locals we met during the trip, many gave us weird looks and warnings ... enough to dissuade us from visiting it. We only stop there before boarding our last ferry an hour later… under the rain!
And hop, five hours on the sea to be added on the list (instead of the three announced), and it's totally disoriented that we finally reach the small island of Siargao in the morning. The adventure does not stop there, since we still have to take a famous tricycle for almost 45 minutes to reach the city of General Luna and our much-awaited accommodation.
However, our relief is short and it is the final blow when we discover our room: no mosquito nets, the cleanliness is left to be desired and the room is as dark and damp as possible. To make the thing worse, we are staying next to the common sanitary facilities, a single bathroom for the whole building, permanently occupied. Helpless, we head to the beach to try to reverse this mixed impression. It was without counting on the flood that is falling on us. We take refuge in a restaurant for the afternoon where we plan our future activities and decide to book ... another accommodation. Because if we learned one thing during our long journey, it is that lodging matters as much as the environment.
In short, we knew better as first days...
We dedicate the second day to our little move, and we feel the difference. The space is much more airy and bright, and the common areas are impeccable (with hot water please!). So here we are, ready to explore this famous new island.
The access to the beach is quite laborious due to the showers of the day before, and it is barefoot (and in mud) that we reach the seaside.
On the way back, we realize that a scooter would not be too much for the next few days, so it is on our two wheels that we pay a little visit to the port of the city.
We take this opportunity to go to the next door’s market to buy something to eat. Unlimited fruits and vegetables, something to delight us for the week to come!
The next day is THE exploration trip of Siargao. Without having planned it, we end up making an almost complete tour of the island, that is to say nearly 130 kilometers in half a day.
First stop at the Coconut Trees View Deck, a roadside stop offering an impressive panorama of coconut palm forests as far as the eye can see (probably several thousand). We have never seen so many!
We continue with the Maasin Bridge, where the main attraction is to pretend to be Tarzan by hanging from a coconut liana. We give up the activity and its queue and prefer the animation of the village and its inhabitants who are busy at the water's edge.
Small rain (or monsoon), just to live the experience fully. It’s surprising, all these torrents of water repeating during the dry period ... until Anouck admits that this tiny island is actually in the middle of the rainy season, unlike the rest of the country. Well, you have to see the bright side, we will see fewer tourists! And honestly, this will be our last rainy day.
After this, the landscapes passing in front of our eyes make us forget the setbacks of the previous days even more! That's it, the charm of Siargao is occurring.
We are even more seduced when we discover the selected place for lunch. A small resort facing the sea and its choppy waves. It is therefore under palm trees and feet in the sand that we enjoy our delicious food (undoubtedly one of the most complete and healthiest meal we have had in the Philippines).
Rather remote, the site is not so frequented and allows us to appreciate even more the so particular atmosphere of the island: welcoming, comforting and relaxing. A little haven of peace, where we savor every moment.
We continue our expedition along the coast before going back down to the south and closing the loop end of the afternoon.
The next day, we decide to go to the clinic to treat Anouck's leg once and for all. It must be said that in ten days, her wound did not evolve very well, as you can see (be careful, censured for sensitive souls).
First precaution when arriving, the protective mask. Apparently, a nasty virus is wandering on the continent!
We then explain the situation to the doctor, who recommends a thorough cleaning. Anouck whitens slightly, but does not run away and accepts her fate gently. On the stretcher, the stress rises a little, but fortunately, the assistant is reassuring and explains us in details the small operation. This lasts about twenty minutes, the time to properly disinfect the burn, to rub it raw to check the blood flow (ouch!) and to cover it correctly. Anouck grits her teeth and handles everything like a little chef!
It is now relieved and the first aid kit refilled that we return to the guesthouse, La Villas Homestay, where the owner surprises us with a room upgrade. Our belongings are transported to a charming bungalow equipped with a private bathroom and a space for cooking. We are delighted and recommend with pleasure this accommodation!
Our afternoon turns into a secret beach hunt spotted on the internet. Armed with the GPS coordinates, we try hard to find it. It is only after crossing the cleanest of paths and a walk in the middle of the coconut trees that we finally reach it.
Our efforts were worth it, since it is on the edge of an almost deserted beach that we have the leisure to bathe (and yes, Anouck's leg is very dry under a water-resistant bandage).
On the way back, we meet a dozen children who run in the street, enough to make us smile all along the way.
Siargao never ceases to charm us, and the following day will not contradict these positive feelings!
Indeed, one of the main activities of the island and even of the country is the Island Hopping, which consists of an excursion in a small bangka, the traditional Filipino boat, in order to discover incredible places both on the sea, underwater and on land. Dream beaches, lagoons, caves, coral reefs, hidden islets: impossible to resist!
For this first experience, we decide to share the boat with a couple of French retirees we met at the port. These are frequent travelers on vacation to the Philippines for the fourth time. No doubt, the country is one of their favorites.
Our discussion is quickly cut short by the deafening noise of the engine, but anyway, we are speechless in front of the crystal clear water on which we are now sailing.
First stop at Guyam Island, an islet on which it is possible to spend the day. However, we only stay there for an hour, the time to appreciate the tranquility of this remote place while avoiding the crowds of tourists who will come soon there.
Pleasant early morning which continues with the visit of the famous Naked Island. As its name suggests, it is an island deserted from every point of view: not a single palm tree on the horizon (so not a corner of shade) and plenty of fine sand. We try to swim around it, but we stop halfway for fear of being struck by the surrounding boats and disappointed by the non-existent seabed. We still enjoy strolling on the end of the island, where the ocean meets, to become one again.
The heat is overwhelming so we head to our last destination of this traveling trip: Daku Island. Much larger and greener than its peers, it is not difficult for us to find a peaceful little corner for picnicking. Five-star lunch with such a view!
The island is even inhabited, with some typical colorful houses. Here, no network, the children have fun crabbing, climbing coconut trees with agility or playing hide and seek in the caves.
A swim in the turquoise water to digest, and it is already time to leave. We end this beautiful day with a last bangka ride, totally convinced by the Island Hopping that we will not hesitate to repeat in the future. And what could be better than joining our bungalow aboard a traditional habal-habal, this motorbike taxi that can accommodate up to three passengers (provided you get on / off on the right side!)?
There you go, Siargao, it's already over! We really fell in love with this little paradise, with the impression of being truly cut off from the world. We just have to do the opposite travel to Cebu ... which means that we are not in a hurry at all. After two tricycles, we get on our first ferry for 2 hours (well it's much faster than the reverse way!) to Surigao. A few hours of waiting in the terminal, and we board our second ferry for seven hours. This time, we are almost alone on board, a little scary, but much more relaxing!
We arrive at our destination around 4:00 am, but are allowed to finish our night in the boat until dawn, after which a taxi take us to our hotel near Cebu City Airport.
Palawan (31/01 - 09/02)
Airport you say? Top in full epidemy! But it’s the easiest and most importantly, the quickest way to get to Palawan, which is the most popular island in the Philippines. For this reason, we hesitated for a long time to visit it. But how can you say no to the lagoons of El Nido and the world famous Coron seabed? So, wearing our masks and holding our disinfectant gel, we are boarding our plane.
Direction Puerto Princesa in the center of the island where we spend two nights to prepare our itinerary for the week. We then realize that despite its popularity, Palawan is not so well organized in terms of public transportation, thus forcing visitors to borrow overpriced private vans. Well, we will have to be well organized to respect our budget and compromise in terms of activities ...
So, we make a trip to the mall to try to find equipment that will make us save on rentals.
The next morning, we manage to take a local bus (at a local price!) to Port Barton, the first stop on our list. We will need four hours on the road, tight as ever (the Filipino heights are slightly lower than ours), and masks on the nose, to reach this small fishing village. Let’s not forget the dozens of pineapples we are carrying on the roof.
We're trying to ignore the huge "Wanted Terrorists" sign when getting off the bus, which doesn't inspire much confidence to focus on this new recommended place in Palawan.
Still fairly preserved from mass tourism, Port Barton has indeed retained its authenticity. Between local restaurants, unpaved alleys, bamboo dwellings, bucket showers of cold water and electricity cuts, the city is still spared by the crowd, even if it is not going to stay like that for long...
We are enjoying our first evening by the beach in front of an exceptional sunset.
The next day, we renew the activity of Island Hopping. This time we share our bangka with five other vacationers and we are all looking forward to the excursion.
We start with Inaladelan Island, also known as the Turtle Sanctuary. As its name suggests, it is a very popular place for turtles, and lucky as we are, we are surprised to see one resting quietly at the bottom of the ocean.
We then have lunch on Bongot Island, where we taste grilled fish and meat, rice, vegetables and tropical fruits. Enough to fill our stomachs before the busy afternoon’s program.
Indeed, we continue our trip to the Twin Reef, a very famous snorkeling spot of the bay. We have the opportunity to admire multicolored corals, clown fishes and trigger fishes, all in a magnificent green sea.
We rest a little on Cagsalay Island, which offers a beautiful panorama of the mountains in the distance before walking on the beach and “cooling off” in 30 degrees' crystal clear water.
We end our marine exploration by the famous Starfish Island, where we can contemplate many starfishes. Note that you should NEVER take them out of the water, just as you should avoid walking on the corals as much as possible.
It is in this almost unreal environment that we complete our expedition; a real success that makes us ready for our next destination: El Nido.
And it is by van launched at more than 120km/h that we reach the most visited city of the island and even of the Philippines. This is felt as soon as we arrive: almost invisible locals, alignment of shops and banks, diverse restaurants, ubiquitous advertising signs, etc. In short, the oppressive atmosphere we feared, not to mention the fivefold price! Unable to book a hotel within our budget, we rent an AirBnB (very limited and always off budget) for our stay here. We are even more frightened when we read catastrophic comments about Island Hopping, an activity that is inevitable in the archipelago. HUNDREDS of tourists are waiting on the beach before boarding overcrowded boats to visit crowded places to swim while slaloming between boats. The clever ones have also distributed the most beautiful spots on different excursions in order to force visitors to book several.
So, as we are going to explode the budget anyway, why not booking a private boat? Advantages? Leaving well before the public tours, choosing our own route by combining the spots of several circuits, and not having to sit on the ground of the boat for lack of space. Disadvantages? The price obviously (double, 40 € per person)… We therefore decide to form a small group with two English and one French we met before.
Result? Our most beautiful excursion in the Philippines, just that!
We explain to our guide that we want to avoid the crowds and basically put our day in his hands. We first arrive at one of the most beautiful beaches of the Philippines: Papaya Beach. The place is just magical! Coconut in hand, we take advantage of the fine sand and the translucent water for an hour before seeing other boats arriving and therefore heading towards the next island.
Direction Pinagbuyutan Island and its impressive karst rocks. Even on the bangka, we feel tiny while sailing along these mountains.
We land on a new postcard-like beach: white sand, traditional boat, rocks and coconut trees, everything is there!
We spend another hour on this island admiring the jewels of nature.
Speaking of these treasures, we are on our way to Cudugnon Cave. To access it, it is better not to be claustrophobic, because the entrance is very narrow. On the other hand, the interior is rather large and bright, and it is a curious attraction that we discover: a cave with the most original colors, shapes and landforms! In addition to its geological interest, the cave was used as a refuge by locals during the Second World War in order to escape the Japanese invaders.
The adjoining beach is so charming ... and surprising: a basketball court stands in the middle of the islet, and Anouck cannot resist a small game with the locals.
Our stomachs are slowly starting to manifest, and we can't wait to devour the meal carefully prepared by our guides, on board of the bangka please!
Lunch is eaten on a very idyllic site: Snake Island. The latter owes its name to the snake-shaped sandbank that connects the island to its neighbor. We take advantage of the low tide to stroll our feet in the water.
We then take the path leading to the top of the island in order to have a panorama.
On the way back, the water has already gained ground and submerged the long stretch of sand that we now have to paddle through.
We stop briefly at Popolkan Island, just long enough to splash in the water and see some fish.
After more than five hours of expedition, it's time to head to our last stop and not the least: the Big Lagoon. It is indeed the most popular place of El Nido Bay, and de facto the most visited. Fortunately, our choice of a private boat allows us to explore this unmissable spot at the end of the day, at a time when it is least visited. It is by kayak that we access the lagoon. We are immediately struck by the remarkable color of the water.
The further we go, the more the lagoon turns blue. The contrast with the gray / black cliffs that surround us is captivating.
We decide to move away a bit and venture into a narrow passage that pierces the rock. The decor is mesmerizing, and for a few minutes, we have the impression of being screened in a cinema film.
The illusion continues with the reflection of the rocks in shimmering water which immerses us in another dimension. A real spectacle for the eyes!
We quietly return to our bangka but do not fail to take advantage of every moment and take our time, especially since we are now almost alone in the lagoon.
Well, our long-awaited excursion ends. Despite our reluctance, this visit not only met our expectations, but it totally exceeded them. We are already ready for our next Island Hopping scheduled in Coron!
Departure the next day at 7 a.m. We board the ferry an hour later (note the exorbitant price of € 35 / person against € 3 for less touristy islands…). The trip should be done in 3-4 hours (depending on the sea’s agitation), and of course we hit the jackpot. After 30 minutes, our eyes talk to each other, and we both understand the fate that is awaiting us. Yet accustomed to maritime connections, we (and half of the passengers) find it difficult to bear this journey, feeling like an amusement park. If at least we could get some fresh air on the deck ... but no, our boat just doesn't have one. This is how we end up rushing from our seats to finish on the entrance stairs, our little bags filling up quickly with our morning breakfast. Come on, just more than 4 hours! (Because obviously, it will take an hour more than expected).
It’s with our stomachs completely turned upside down that we land on Busuanga Island, which faces Coron’s. We are immediately welcomed by a small medical committee who will not fail to take our temperature before reassuring us with a “you are normal”. Are you sure about that? Because we got really hot in the boat!
And the discovery of our accommodation will not make us feel better. Because of a very tight budget available for the end of our trip in the Philippines, we book three nights in an overwater inn. On paper, this traditional accommodation really charms us, both by its price and its originality. But we quickly become disillusioned by spotting its access.
The guesthouse is actually located in the slums of Coron City, and our room overlooks the district's wastewater. The humidity is permanent, and the smell stinks. Perfect after our most memorable morning at sea! In short, it is out of the question to get back on board of a boat anytime soon, so we rent a scooter in order to discover the island differently from the previous days: on land. Without any specific goal, we follow the coast to the north. We are doing well, because it seems that tourists are limited only to nautical adventures. We are alone on the road, with the exception of a few locals we meet on the way.
Back at the end of the afternoon, we do not miss the sunset on the heights of the city, not without having climbed the 720 steps to the promontory. The view of the bay with all these colors is splendid!
Obviously in the Philippines, it is impossible to stay away from the sea for very long. Our bodies recovered from the ferry experience, we cannot resist a last Island Hopping in the Coron archipelago, known worldwide for its diving spots and numerous wrecks. We dedicate our last real day of visit to our favorite activity. This time, no private boat, we embark on an extra large bangka with about twenty other passengers. Fortunately, the sites we are about to explore are much less touristy than El Nido Bay, which compensates for the large number of people on the boat.
We start the excursion (the SUPER Ultimate Tour so as not to miss anything) with the CYC Beach. It starts well, it was not planned, and we fear to have gotten on the wrong boat. But no, some places seem simply to have been replaced by others without our notice ... and honestly, that was not needed. There is nothing really special about the beach, nor the surrounding seabed.
We will still remember the general surprise and the laughter that followed after announcing that we had to jump from the boat a good hundred meters from the shore to access it (we will have this one at each stop). At 8am, what a good way to wake up! We continue with Las Islas de Coral where, as the name suggests, we have the chance to admire magnificent colorful corals. The weather is starting to get windy, but it doesn't matter, under water, no cloud on the horizon.
A very good introduction before going into the heart of the activity: Coral Garden & Skeleton Wreck. The sky is clear, and we are at first speechless in front of the clear and turquoise water in which we throw ourselves in.
A little panic when our heads get under water, as we notice the hundreds of fish around us. Those in schools are particularly impressive! We really feel like we're in a giant aquarium, and yes, it's as exciting as scary!
We pay attention to the many sea urchins at the bottom of the water (NB: aquatic shoes can be very useful) and swim towards the place of interest of this place: the wreck of a Chinese boat stranded there. The latter rests quietly at the bottom of the ocean and is now completely covered with shells, seeming to integrate perfectly into the environment.
After playing experienced researchers, we're ready for lunch. On the menu: grilled fish and pork, mussels, seaweed, rice and spaghetti. We are so hungry that the traditional pre-meal photo is skipped.
No time to digest, we aim towards the famous Twin Lagoon. It is made up of two lagoons separated by a small cave. One is salt water, the other fresh water on the surface (cooler) and sea water deeper (warmer). The setting is really incredible, and with our compulsory life jackets, we float there for a while, surrounded by huge karst rocks so typical of the Philippines.
We continue with Baraccuda Lake. To access it, we swim 200 meters (you understand, the captain does not want to damage his boat) and walk shortly, before discovering a gigantic dark blue lake. Here, no corals and very few fish, just nothing. We make the most of this natural pool before returning (out of breath) to our superb bangka for a final stop.
And what could be better than the famous Kayangan Lake to end this day in style? The approach to the site is worth the detour: crystal clear water (again and again), limestone formations, typical boats and a long wooden pontoon.
We take a staircase trail for about ten minutes before arriving at a new lake. Greener than the previous one, but just as clear and charming.
The 30 degrees water invite us to swim, but we prefer to take the height in order to reach a point of view that we are not ready to forget. The panorama that is offered to us is just exceptional and worthy of the most beautiful postcards.
It is this image that we will remember for this ultimate Island Hopping. After more than seven hours of excursion, it is with half-closed eyes (tiredness you know) but the head filled with memories that we finish this excursion. The arrival in our slum brings us back to reality, however. This is also our journey: to be aware of the differences in order to measure our luck even more.
The following adventure is probably the funniest and most memorable of our trip to the Philippines. And of course, we live it during our last moments in the country.
For the context, it is Saturday February 8, it is 5:30 am and we are in our room above the sewers. In exactly 38 hours (7:30 p.m. February 9 for those with allergies to numbers), we will take off for Bangkok with a stopover in Manila. Departure from Puerto Princesa, 430 km from our current five star hotel. Rather than reliving our last ferry nightmare followed by an anxious minivan trip of 6 hours, we opt for the huge 11-hour ferry. It’s long but it’s calm, direct, and hassle-free APPARENTLY.
Weekly departure on Saturday (that's good) at 8 a.m. Arrival scheduled at 7 p.m. IN THEORY.
It is therefore 5.30 am and we hardly wake up. We leave our charming inn 30 minutes later to arrive at the maritime terminal at 6.30 a.m., advance recommended for our journey. And there, out of nothing, one announces us quietly the delay of a few hours of the boat.
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SORRY? WE DIDN’T HEAR, AT WHAT TIME DID YOU SAY IT WOULD ARRIVE?
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Around 11h.
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…
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Haven't you been notified?
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ANOUCK HOLD ME PLEASE
Disappointed, we pass the security check to settle in the departure lounge, without breakfast, without wifi, and soon without electricity. But, if the boat ARRIVES at 11am, boarding will not be done before noon right? Quick calculation: 5h30 of wait.
Of course, 11am is approaching and still no ferry in sight… Update: the boat will now ARRIVE around noon. But of course…
We will be hit twice more before our dear means of transport decides to show up at ... 2 PM.
Obviously, compulsory baggage search before our embarkation, enough to change our minds after all this waiting. You have to align the bags well and stick to the wall to let the most dissipated German shepherd of the country check our bags. And just in case the dog didn’t do his job correctly, a second check is made by the handsome, the unique and mini jack russell. Crazy laughter guaranteed!
2.30pm: we finally get on board of ... a liner! Hey, you should have tell us that we were going on a cruise, we would have made a clothing effort!
And the further you go into the boat, the more the Costa effect is felt: a supermarket, a hairdresser, various restaurants, a nightclub, not to mention the rooms and showers on board. We could spend the night there!
AND WELL THE UNIVERSE HEARS OUR WISH! After taking possession of our beds with a dozen Filipinos, we are told that the ferry will leave at 4 p.m. which turns into 6 p.m. And then we are finally explained why and how: the boat's engine is broken (how did it happen so far ?!) and a very special part is needed to repair it. So we wait on this one supposed to come straight from Manila. WAIT, DID YOU SAY MANILA CAPITAL AT 15 HOURS CROSSING FROM HERE?
Our companions, loyal to themselves, laugh at the situation and keep joking about it. One of them offers to sleep with the life jackets on while another hopes that the coronavirus is not on board. Laughter is communicative and it helps to relieve the pressure.
The two meals offered by the company too! We don’t miss the karaoke acclaimed by the locals at mealtime.
10 p.m., and we still haven't moved… It's getting a long time, and we're getting dangerously close to our safety margin for our flight. If we don’t leave at 5 am, we will have to leave the ship and manage on our own… Fortunately, we do not arrive until there, since the ferry miraculously leaves the port at 11:30 pm, that is with 15,5 hours delay. It was worth getting up at dawn!
After warning our hotel that we will never arrive, it's time to go to bed. The sea is calm, which allows us to recover a little from all this situation. We get up around 9 am, and a good cold shower later, we decide to get some fresh air and enjoy our breakfast on the deck.
For lunch, our new roommates don't miss the opportunity to take the microphone and interpret a song for us. We fear our participation, but the arrival of the boat stops the activity.
It is 1 p.m. and we FINALLY arrive at our destination. It takes almost an hour to disembark, so it’s after 2 pm that we are heading to the airport. Yes, we quickly agreed to get there 5 hours in advance... On the way, we enjoy our last jeepney ride and the local life of Puerto Princesa.
For once, no rush at the airport, and we are taking off, our little masks tightly screwed on our noses. Stopover in Manila for our flight to Bangkok (again).
After reflection, this was probably the best way to end this trip to the Philippines. Like the country: adventurous, in music, all smiling and in a good mood.
Highlights
OUR FAVORITES:
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The kindness and attitude of locals towards us (smiling, funny and helpful).
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The openness of the Filipino culture.
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The landscapes and turquoise waters worthy of postcards.
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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The country remains more expensive than other Asian countries.
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The influx of tourists to El-Nido and Coron, which makes it difficult to access an authentic experience in this region.
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The food not very varied and largely influenced by the American colonization (burgers, pizzas, fried chicken ...) and the poverty of the country (neck, intestines and chicken legs ...).
Budget
