Thailand
04/11 - 20/11
10/02 - 09/03
Trendy destination for several years, we could not have missed Thailand. The kingdom of Siam has so much to offer: the excessiveness of its capital Bangkok, the beauty of its many UNESCO World Heritage sites, the balance between rich vegetation at the north and its heavenly islands at the south, and all of this crowned by an amazing (food) culture and a legendary sense of hospitality.
The choice of November to visit Thailand is not random, since it is at this period that the traditional festivals of Loy Krathong and Yee Peng take place in the north of the country. Therefore, we plan to stay 15 days in this region before discovering the south of Thailand with family later.
Contents
Ayutthaya (4/11 - 6/11)
We arrive at the domestic airport of Bangkok on November 4th but decide to skip the capital. We keep it for later, because transportation to the north is already well booked several weeks before the festivities of November. To have a chance to attend, we should take the direction of Chiang Mai as soon as possible, as it is the most animated city during the celebrations.
On the way, we make a stopover in Ayutthaya, located just an hour away from Bangkok.
Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was once the capital of Thailand before being totally destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century. Today, the remains of this ancient city constitute the Ayutthaya Historical Park, unsurprisingly a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We spent two days there, time to visit the museum and some of the 400 temples around. Some of them are true wonders of nature, like Wat Mahathat and his famous Buddha head entangled in the roots of a fig tree. Legend tells that when the Burmese decapitated all the statues of Buddha, one of the heads rolled up to that tree that collected it in its roots to protect it.
We do not forget the local night market, where we begin to familiarize ourselves with the diversity of Thai food: mango and papaya salads, pad Thai, fried noodles, soups, fried fish, satay, skewers, insects, and the inevitable fruit shakes. Our taste buds are going crazy!
We continue our journey to Chiang Mai and choose the direct night train between the two cities. We wait several hours at the station as the departure is at 23:30 and our guesthouse suddenly decided to close for the weekend... Luckily, we manage to get two 2nd class seats for the trip: we avoid the 3rd class and its tiny seats, but we also miss the sleeping wagon already booked weeks in advance by locals.
Chiang Mai (06/11 - 14/11)
The trip lasts about 12 hours, with conditions similar to a flight. Minus the A/C, the service and the screens, but plus the cockroaches.
We begin our weekly stay in Chiang Mai with a one-day meditation initiation at Wat Suan Dok. We meet Phra KK, a monk for 20 years, who begins by explaining the history of Buddhism and the basic principles of meditation. We learn that Buddhism is NOT a religion, but is considered a philosophy or a way of life.
Buddhism dates back more than 2500 years ago, when Siddhartha Gautama realized at 29 that wealth does not guarantee happiness and cannot protect against old age, sickness and death. Coming from a royal family, he leaves his kingdom to explore other philosophies in order to free the individual from all its diseases and achieve long lasting happiness. Six years later, he finds his path and reaches enlightenment, corresponding to perfect knowledge and the peacefulness of wisdom. He then becomes Buddha (derived from the term “budh” meaning “awaken”) and shares his teaching for nearly 45 years. Buddhism is thus based neither on a belief nor on a God, but on an acquaintance: the working of the human mind.
Buddhism includes several fundamental concepts known as the Four Noble Truths:
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Dukka (suffering): Life is suffering because it includes some painful phenomena of existence (sickness, old age, death), dissatisfaction and regrets.
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Samudaya (origin of suffering): it is mainly caused by envy and aversion.
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Nirodha (cessation of suffering): Suffering can be overcome and happiness can be achieved: it is the Nirvana.
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Magga (path leading to the cessation of suffering): This is the “noble eightfold path”. By learning to live from day to day (neither in the past nor in the future) and focusing on the awareness of our thoughts and actions, we can break away from our desires and become happy.
Meditation practice is at the heart of Buddhism because it is a tool to reach and stay in Nirvana. There are many types of meditation, but in general, it is mainly attributed to Buddha who felt that the body and mind were not separated, and that the practice of attention allowed to see more clearly.
Meditation is not relaxation or a miracle solution for stress. To meditate is to let one go by observing one’s thoughts and anxieties without analyzing them and attaching to them. It is an intimate growth, an inner vigilance and a full awareness in the present moment.
For beginners like us, it is advisable to start meditating actively, meaning in motion. It is true that finding yourself alone, conscious of your own thoughts, is not easy when you are not used to it. It can bring anxiety. This is why, led and helped by Phra KK, we began to meditate while walking. It shows us how to focus and feel our movements and our body. The later thus become the object of our attention, dettaches us from the rest, and calm our mind.
Our inner thoughts evolve, from what we are eating, to the color of the pants we wore yesterday, our train booking of tomorrow to the neighbor's cat. Our mind is constantly running and exhausts us.
Phra KK then teaches us breathing meditation. Sitting, he explains to us that every thought coming into our mind must be accepted with detachment in order to leave. To help us, we can focus on our breathing and its effect on our body, which then becomes the object of our thoughts. Concentration is required and it is a difficult mental exercise. We really realize how much we think constantly, how the machine never stops. Clearly, meditation is for the mind what sport is for the body. It is a way to free oneself from mental load and calm down. We meditated that way for at least 20 min. We are surprised because time has passed so fast! At the end, we feel relaxed, calm and detached. What an amazing feeling!
We keep going with several coordination exercises that also aim at directing our thoughts to a single object.
We end this informative and relaxing day with a wish from Phra KK. He asks us to close our eyes and repeat after him. He tells us not to pray but to direct his kind thoughts to those who need them. He sends his love to humanity, so that war, violence, hatred and intolerance cease and leave room for peace and harmony. He asks us to think of all humans in need and our loved ones. We are overwhelmed by emotion, like the others. We connect to our souls and think with all our hearts of our families and friends.
We also participate in a one-day cooking class in Chiang Mai, during which we prepare a gargantuan meal. We start with a tour of the local market where our chef introduces us the essential ingredients of Thai cuisine (chili paste, palm sugar, fish, oyster, tamarind, soy and mushroom sauces) and some fruits and vegetables that are unknown to us.
At the program, 7 preparations each: the famous curry paste, an appetizer, a soup, a curry, a noodle dish, a fried dish and a dessert! Fortunately, we didn’t have breakfast this morning! For each category, we have the choice between 3 different preparations. We make sure to not choose the same to learn as much as we can.
This day is a real treat, literally and figuratively!
 PAPAYA SALAD |  FRIED SPRING ROLLS |  CHICKEN IN COCONUT SOUP |
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 PAD THAI |  FRIED THICK NOODLES WITH SOY SAUCE |  PANANG CURRY |
 FRIED CASHEW NUTS WITH CHICKEN |  STIR FRIED PRAWNS IN TAMARIND SAUCE |  FRIED BANANAS & MANGO STICKY RICE |
In Thailand, like many other Asian countries, markets are sacred. There are daily markets opening at dawn for the day, and there are night markets at the end of the week, bigger and more diversified. Chiang Mai makes no exception to the rule, and on weekends from 5 pm, hundred of stalls are invading parts of the city centre. This is undoubtedly the biggest night market we have ever seen, and we understand better the recommendations of locals and tour guides. You can find basically everything: food and drinks of course, but also clothes, cosmetics, lighting, paintings, games, etc., not to mention the many artists who practice in the street: musicians, designers, dressmakers, craftsmen working wood or metal. Even the (feet) masseurs are out!
As introduced earlier, we visit Thailand during the festive season, as two very important festivals for the Buddhist culture take place in mid-November: Loy Krathong and Yee Peng, both celebrated in the spirit of a new departure washed from all negative thoughts accumulated during the year. Chiang Mai, in particular, pays special attention to these two festivals and doesn’t skimp on the means to put them in the spotlight. On this occasion and for more than a week, the whole city is adorned with lanterns of colour and lights (streets, bridges, temples, houses, shops, trees, etc.). A real carnival of decorations!
At the full moon (November 11 to 13 this year), the city becomes full of animations: parades, lanterns and baskets making workshops, offering of candles at night…
Finally, the long awaited moment arrives: the throwing of lanterns in the sky and the baskets in the water, each action having its own meaning. The lanterns, made of rice paper, have a flammable disc at their center. It’s a tradition to make a wish when fired. The lantern then rises into the sky, and it is said that the higher and longer it rises, the more the wish is likely to become true. The act of throwing the lantern also symbolizes the letting go of our misfortune and negative emotions.
The baskets (krathongs) are made of lotus-shaped banana leaves and decorated with flowers, incense sticks and a candle. Their launch symbolizes our desire to leave behind all feelings of anger and hatred, but also our past mistakes. It’s a way of asking forgiveness and focusing on the present.
We, too, would like to participate to these meaningful events. Unfortunately, with the excesses of the previous years (fires, flights delayed or even canceled), throws are now rigorously framed outside the city, and have even become payable (up to $100). So, here we are, carrying two huge paper lanterns in the streets of Chiang Mai, looking for a safe place to drop them and avoid setting the city on fire! We choose a clear spot along a river to reassure us, and celebrate our own festival in complete privacy.
We are finishing our week in Chiang Mai with a traditional Thai massage of which we have heard so many benefits. We remain perplexed when seeing the list of contraindications, but we soon get to realize their importance. For over an hour, our body is stretched and contorted (mistreated?). With surprising movements, practitioners use their own body (hands, elbows, legs, feet) to massage us. Enough to stimulate us from hear to toe before taking the road to Sukhothai.
Sukhothai (14/11 - 17/11)
Located between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, in Western Thailand, the city of Sukhothai literally means “The Dawn of Happiness” and is considered the first capital of the Kingdom of Siam. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is today one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in the country. In order to simplify its visit, Sukhothai Historical Park (Old Town) is now divided into five zones, each with remains of its illustrious past. Between the ruins of temples, prangs, stupas and statues of Buddha, the architecture of Sukhothai doesn’t leave us indifferent.
We decide to focus on two zones instead of visiting everything in rush. We visit the north sector, its imposing Buddha of 15m high (the largest in the country) and its leaning tower built under Khmer influence.
We also choose the central fortified area which includes the largest number of buildings but also the most preserved ones. We see among others the royal temple surrounded by several pillars and Buddhas, then a temple of Hindu origin considered the oldest of the site, as well as various remains in the form of stupas. The atmosphere is so pleasant because of its important vegetation and many lakes.
We end our day with a sunset in the park itself, now illuminated to admire the temples at night. A small improvised local market at the edge of the water make us very happy and we enjoy one last time the tranquility of this place.
Mae Sot (17/11 - 20/11)
We leave Sukhothai for the border town of Mae Sot, 3 hours away, from where we will reach Burma a few days later. In addition to its border crossing, Mae Sot is also known for its large Burmese refugee community. Nice appetizer for our next destination! We are fortunate enough to see the camp of Mae La, considered the largest Burmese refugee camp in Thailand. There are more than 50,000 refugees, the majority of whom have fled ethnic conflicts in their country (see article about Burma here). Most are spending several years there, some their entire life…
Mae Sot is also home to many Burmese humanitarian organizations. This is the case of AAPP (Assistance Association for Political Prisoners) whose main purpose is to advocate for the release of Burmese political prisoners and the improvement of their living conditions in prison. Founded in 2000 by former political prisoners in exile, AAPP sets up to Mae Sot before being able to open an office in Rangoon in 2012. We will visit the latter when we arrive in Burma and take the opportunity to further explain the political situation of the country (article about Burma here).
The mention of this organization is not insignificant, since Marie worked there in 2017. Our visit to Mae Sot is therefore an opportunity to reunite with her colleagues and place of work, and to show Anouck what a little piece of heaven that is. We especially thank Moe Pang and her family who welcomed us with open arms and treated us like queens.
After 3 days of reunion, it is time to leave our first stay in Thailand for Burma. For that, nothing more simple: you just have to walk through the bridge that separates the two countries. We start by passing the Thai immigration at the beginning of the bridge and then the Burmese immigration at the end. And here we are in Burma.
Bangkok (08/01 - 12/01)
Back from Sri Lanka, we decide to spend a few days in Bangkok before our departure to the Philippines. If we are used to avoiding Asian capitals, which are often too crowded and polluted, we make a small exception for Thailand’s.
Our main motivation? The food (don't be surprised)! Clearly tired of rice & curry and fried rice, we can't wait to savor the varied Thai dishes and fresh juices.
Obviously, we also take the opportunity to visit this culturally rich megalopolis. Besides its gastronomic scene, Bangkok is also famous for the many historic sites and temples it shelters. We opt for Wat Pho, less touristy than the grand palace and more pleasant to explore. It is one of the oldest Buddhist temple in the capital. There you can admire the largest reclining Buddha of the country: 45m long, 15m high, covered with gold leaves and representing Buddha on his deathbed. A real piece of art!
The temple grounds also allow to contemplate numerous ceramic covered chedis alongside imposing statues and nearly 400 representations of Buddha lined up in the interior courtyard.
We continue our discovery of Bangkok, nicknamed "Venice of the East", by a small boat crossing to admire Wat Arun on the other side of the Chao Phraya river. Under renovation for a long time (almost 3 years), this 300-year-old temple is now one of the most beautiful buildings in the city, during the day and the night.
If you want to go shopping, know that Bangkok is the undisputed shopping capital of Asia. Between local markets and shopping centers, the possibilities of shopping are endless. We make a small detour to the famous MBK center and its 8 floors to find good deals among the 2,500 stands available to us. Everything is negotiable despite the indicated prices! For the pleasure of our eyes only, we also venture to the huge ICONSIAM shopping center accessible by river shuttle.
We feel a little lost in the middle of all these luxury boutiques and high-end brands, but we are clearly impressed by the extravagant setting of the top floor.
At nightfall, the complex gives an impressive spectacle of sounds and lights around its large outdoor fountain. A show reflecting the greatness and excitement of the capital.
Bangkok (10/02- 13/02)
Back in Thailand after our Filipino trip, this time we decide to devote the coming weeks to discover the southern part of the country. But first, make way for the beautiful hotel reserved for Miss Anouck’s birthday. 25 years old, what a celebration! And what could be better than a good bed, hot water and a magnificent swimming pool overlooking the capital to celebrate this quarter century?
Of course, obligation to include a gastronomic dimension to the event! (Knowing Anouck, you can imagine the fiasco without food ...). Surprise, we dine on board of an old barge boat on the Chao Paya river and enjoy a traditional meal, which is just exceptional!
Well, living the castle life is very beautiful, but we have to think about getting back on the road! Direction the Gulf of Thailand and its three main islands: Koh Tao, Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. And as usual, everything is done in disorganization (and under pressure), since with traffic, we arrive something like 5 minutes in advance to catch our transport. The night bus, of course! Seven hours of failed attempts to fall asleep, and we are dropped off at the ferry pier. It’s stupid, it’s 2 am, and the departure is not scheduled until 4 hours later…. Hard return to reality!
Fortunately, the sunrise on the fishing boats quickly makes us forget this catastrophic night, and it is around 10 am that we finally reach our destination.
Koh Tao (14/02- 17/02)
First stop at Koh Tao, a small tropical island known worldwide for the diversity of its seabed and coral reefs. A small island (barely 20km²), so more crowded, but we still manage to find a little beach with not so many visitors.
It's time to test our freshly acquired masks and snorkels and check ourselves the beauty of this aquatic life. And the least we can say is that we are surprised by the multitude of different fish in the water, between the rocks and on the corals. Who could have imagined such a beautiful painting so close to the shore?
We continue with the famous Freedom Beach surrounded by the large rocks characteristic of Koh Tao.
Heads underwater, we are once again amazed: fish, more fish, and of all sizes, shapes and colors. They are small, big, solitary, sociable, colorful, striped... In short, another beautiful giant aquarium.
After a short, but not the least, tiring walk, we reach the John-Suwan Viewpoint, from where we can admire both sides of the island simultaneously. A splendid spectacle at the end of the day.
On the way back, we want to have dinner like locals and we stop at a roadside stand. In front of us, five preparations in five different pots: it's up to us to make our choice. We opt for a yellow curry, and to the looks and comments of customers (“oooooh, spicy!”), we understand that our palate will take a hit. A nice understatement, since the manager will go so far as to offer us soups and add white rice to calm our burning mouths and dry our flowing tears! No matter, we cherish these exchanges with the population.
The next day, we go on an excursion to Koh Nang Yuan, a must in the region. Accessible in about fifteen minutes by long-tail boat (traditional Thai boat), they are three islands linked by a sandbank. By crawling a little, it is possible to reach a belvedere, which dominates the site and offers an exceptional panorama. This view is also immortalized on many postcards.
Increasingly popular (and we understand why), Koh Nang Yuan now has special regulations to respect in order to protect the place: if snorkeling is allowed, or even recommended, fins are prohibited to preserve the corals, just like plastic bottles all over the island. A bit of responsible tourism doesn't hurt!
We end our stay in Koh Tao with the most memorable experience: Shark Bay! And yes, as the name suggests, it is all about SHARKS. It’s a little stressed but really excited that we take the plunge. And after a few minutes of swimming, 250m from the shore, BINGO! A dozen black tip sharks are under our feet about three meters deep. Difficult to follow them, so fast they go, but we still manage to capture these impressive mammals.
Do not panic, they are completely harmless, although much bigger than we expected. Rather, they seem to be afraid of us. Not surprising, when we know that humans kill several thousand sharks an hour when there are only a dozen attacks a year ...
Koh Pha Ngan (17/02 > 20/02)
The weather is cloudy when we reach our next destination: the island of Koh Pha Ngan. Very popular with backpackers, Koh Phangan is known for its legendary Full Moon Party, a disproportionate festival attracting thousands of people every full moon. But in addition to its festive side, the island holds many surprises ...
We first experience it with its market which will become our HQ. It's simple, we take advantage of each ride on our two wheels transportation to make a detour. Lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, any occasion is good to take, and that's how we set ourselves a new mission: to test the maximum number of stands (you can imagine who came up with this idea ...). Shakes, kebabs, sushis, samosas, ribs, pad thai, soups, salads, we take up the challenge with great pleasure!
We discover a nice National Park, the one of Thansadej. If the dry season does not really allow you to enjoy the famous Phaeng waterfall, the Dom Sila Viewpoint offers a panoramic view on a good part of the island. Between stairs, roots, rope ramps and rocks, the path to get there is not easy but gives this little hike more charm (and hop, another excuse for the market).
By scooter, we sometimes get lost voluntarily to better explore the surroundings, and this is how we accidentally arrive at Wat Phu Khao Noi, the oldest temple on the island, making us discover all its spiritual dimension.
And then randomly again, we come across an outdoor Muay Thai class. Note that this is the most popular fighting sport in Thailand and that many practitioners from around the world come to Thailand to train.
Last surprise with the rain that comes ... again and again when we are driving. It’s soaking wet that we decide to take shelter… at the market! Oups. Hopefully the weather will be milder for the rest of the trip: Koh Samui!
Koh Samui (20/02 > 24/02)
Located an hour away by boat from Koh Phangan, Koh Samui is the second largest island in the country. That’s nice, because we are joining Marie's cousins with whom we will spend a few busy days. Indeed, with an area of 228km², Koh Samui offers a multitude of activities and places to visit. So hard to get bored!
We dedicate our first big day to a beautiful scooter loop. First stop at Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, two rocks shaped millions of years ago by wind and water to finally look like male and female genitals … well, why not?
We do not dwell on it and head to the famous Wat Ratchathammaram, also known as the (much simpler) red temple. And for a good reason, this Buddhist building is widely distinguished from others by its monochrome terracotta color, its architecture and its fine sculptures.
Change of scenery for our next stop: Na Muang Waterfalls, a site housing the two most impressive waterfalls of the island. We easily access the first, which is around 20 meters high. We are in a dry period but the rain of the last days still allows us to appreciate all its splendor. Fifteen minutes walk later and we arrive at the second waterfall: 80 meters high in the middle of the vegetation.
In the afternoon, we choose one of the many beaches of Koh Samui, Coral Cove Beach. If we have already seen more beautiful, the waves have something to amaze us: they are huge! Quickly, we throw ourselves in the water to measure ourselves against the rolls. The result is clear, nature wins and swallows us!
We are not stopping on such a good path and decide once again to meet the Buddhist culture, which is very present on the island. We start with the most visited monument: Big Buddha, a 12 meter gold statue visible from miles around. The site is much less crowded at the end of the day, allowing us to appreciate the tranquility that goes with these sacred places.
We then walk along the coast at sunset before reaching another Buddhist complex combining Chinese and Thai traditions. Surrounded by a lake, it hosts a representation of Guanyin (goddess of mercy) with its 18 arms, as well as an imposing laughing Buddha.
We end this roadtrip with a visit to the traditional Fishermen Village of Bophut and its large weekly market, which stretches for almost one kilometer! We spend almost two hours walking around the multitude of stands held by the locals. Between clothing stalls, craft products, traditional music but especially culinary specialties, our senses are well awakened ...
We finish this day with our stomachs full and our eyes tired ... before putting it back the next day! This time we are venturing into the island’s land. We take a rather steep road before arriving randomly, by chance, at the “Lamai Overlap Stone”, a huge rock located on the side of a cliff. It almost looks like it's in balance, and you barely dare to lean on it for fear of tipping it over. However, we linger there for a good hour because the panorama that is offered to us is absolutely spectacular.
We then head to the Magic Buddha Garden and its large stone statues. We particularly appreciate the road up the island to get there. Special mention to the moment where we break the motorbike's brakes on the way back. One more hassle you would say, except that in a steep descent, we immediately laugh a lot less. Fortunately, a local comes to help and cools the engine, which seems to be working. Note for the next time (since the rule "never 2 without 3" has bizarrely turned into "never 1 without 5" with us)!
We enjoy our last meal at Lamai Walking Street, the neighborhood night market. In our opinion, this is the best place to eat because beyond reasonable prices, it allows us to try several dishes typical of the country, and small quantities mean... multitude of dishes to taste!
Koh Samui, it's over! Now is the time to leave the gulf of Thailand and its blue waters. We are heading to the Andaman Sea and its famous islands.
Koh Lanta (25/02 > 28/02)
But first, we stop at Krabi airport to pick up an important package! Two specimens are coming straight from Belgium and we are awaiting them firmly. Needless to describe Anouck's state of agitation, she is simply untenable!
The new adventurers here, we embark immediately on board of an anxious minivan, direction Koh Lanta. Besides our appreciation for the same name’s TV program, we choose this island for its family and local side. Indeed, despite its popularity, Koh Lanta has kept its authenticity with many fishing villages and traditional houses, while adapting to the growing tourist flow. An ideal destination to start the immersion of our guests gently.
On the spot, no one escapes the national scooter! The new arrivals get used to it quickly, and we're off to our first day of exploration. Without any specific goal, we wander in the north of the island and stop when we feel like it. For example, on this beach bordered by a magnificent palm plantation. We linger there for an hour, time to enjoy our first swim together.
Not far from there, another beach calls for us. The latter, smaller but also much more frequented, allows us to observe several locals fishing right next to the grilled tourists (you will thank us later for skipping the pictures).
Small Foodie stop for the Parisse’s (we said smooth acclimatization, no question of removing snacks like that!).
Satisfied, we find a deserted beach to digest. The place is idyllic, and we spend most of the afternoon there. The palm trees are replaced here by fir trees, and this new decoration gives us the impression of having changed country. It's low tide and its the hundreds of crabs stretching their legs that will take us out of the water.
We end our day with the northeast of the island and its exotic mangroves. The elevated path offers a pleasant and shaded stroll in the heart of this intriguing ecosystem. Fortunately, because this labyrinth of vegetation would easily make us lost!
The next day, we repeat the discovering experience. It is true that Koh Lanta exudes a fairly reassuring atmosphere and conceals small lost corners more or less visited. We start with Kantiang Bay and reward our apprentice adventurers with a beautiful totem of immunity.
We then cool off (again) at the Khlong Chak Waterfall. To reach it, 30 minutes of hiking are necessary in the middle of a luxuriant and very alive jungle. Indeed, it is a family of monkeys who launch the departure of this expedition. We then, walk along a mirror-like pond, before arriving on a path in the forest. Manon and I borrow the latter, while Alain and Anouck prefer to go up the river by foot. On both sides, the environment immerses us in another dimension, very different from the ubiquitous beaches.
Well, it is true that in the dry season, the waterfall of the site is not the most impressive, but it has the advantage of being cool, and below 30 ° C, so we do not say no!
On the way back, we do not fail to immortalize the long snake that comes to meet us. Venomous or not, we prefer to turn back and take another path. We are spoiled with this tropical forest and all its small inhabitants!
Speaking of animals, Manon whispers in the ears of three little goats. Clearly in her element, we do not count the number of dogs and cats she will cuddle during the trip (and too bad for fleas, scabies, rabies and dirty hands in times of coronavirus).
We leave for the coast and its large beaches of fine sand. A restaurant overlooking the southern tip of the island gives us a glance, and we stop there for lunch before checking more closely this long, rather wild beach.
It is Bamboo Beach and apart from the only hotel by the sea, the place is still intact despite its size. A nice surprise, which will make us enjoy a good time. Like what, it is still possible to find beautiful beaches on a touristy island without experiencing its excesses.
And our next stop will not go against this observation. Still randomly, we park on the side of the road and decide to follow a small wooden sign indicating Nui Bay. A few bamboo steps later, and we reach a bar below overlooking a small hidden beach. You can't tell it from the main road, and that's probably what gives it so much charm.
No doubt, aperitif time has struck and it is with a drink that we appreciate this new oasis of tranquility.
We end this day with a magnificent sunset on our scooter, a very nice way to end our stay in Koh Lanta. The sentence is irrevocable: we recommend the island unanimously for its diversity!
Koh Mook (28/02 > 01/03)
Direction the Trang Islands, which are two hours by boat. We quickly pass the famous Koh Ngai and Koh Kradan before reaching our final destination: Koh Mook. Generally, these islands can be visited on a day trip, but we choose to spend two nights there for a very specific purpose...
From our arrival, we feel an even warmer atmosphere than in Koh Lanta. Obviously, Koh Mook is smaller, but not only. There is a real village spirit here: we meet a lot of children, goats and roosters, as well as the fishermen who have gone to work. The single road crosses traditional houses and has three small grocery stores, a single ATM (not always functional) and few hotels. The restaurants are simple and accessible for both vacationers and locals. In short, a change of scenery guaranteed far from touristy destinations.
With all our luggage, the tuk-tuk has a little trouble getting us to the hotel, but at 15 km/h, we can hardly but surely get there.
We then rest on the small Charlie Beach from where we contemplate a splendid sunset (like all the sunsets in Thailand if we think about it).
The rest of the evening is devoted to the preparation of our next morning, the very reason for our visit here... We get up at 6am the next day. Direction the adjacent beach, where our kayaks await us! First successful challenge: we seem to be the only brave ones who want to paddle this early.
Anouck and I are the only ones who know our roadmap, and we can't wait to share this with the family. In any case, sea kayaking surrounded by all these huge rocks has already won us over. It’s so calm, and the rising sun gives the sky its pastel colors that gently wake us up.
Here we are! After 20 minutes of exercise, we finally reach the natural attraction that makes the island famous: the Emerald Cave (Tham Morakot). 80 meters long, this cave is only accessible at low tide by kayak or by swimming. Overexcited, we take this long and increasingly dark corridor (oops, we forgot the headlamps at the hotel) until we reach a secret open-air beach bordered by high cliffs. And thanks to our early departure, we are the FIRST on the spot, a real privilege! Enough of a speech, we let you appreciate this exceptional site in images.
We are totally amazed and we leave room for the new arrivals (there will be hundreds during the day!). A few more paddle strokes after Emerald Cave, we land on another deserted beach: Sabai Beach.
But before enjoying it, we prefer to spend our time hiking to the "surrounding" point of view. We will still need a good thirty minute climb to get there. Upstairs, the view that is offered to us is remarkable, so much so that a shelter and tents have been made available in order to have the chance to admire this spectacle longer.
Machete in hand, Alain even opens several coconuts picked up by us. There is only one step before seeing us arriving on your small screens on Friday evening!
Proud of ourselves, we descend to the beach a little less deserted than before. Well, it seems that monkeys have visited our boats in search of food. We can clearly see the traces of their little hands on our things. Anouck and Manon set off to explore the seabed while Alain and I watch out for these very curious individuals!
On the reverse path, we meet the many boats at the entrance of the cave and are delighted to have got up so early. More serene on the water, it feels like we are playing in an Indiana Jones movie when circulating in narrow passages through the rocks.
Back at the hotel, we talk about this morning, which totally exceeded our expectations. And what could be better than a traditional Thai massage to recover from our emotions. Attention, non-flexible bodies abstain!
Like Koh Lanta, Koh Mook's results are clear: despite our short stay on the island, its authenticity combined with its natural treasures make it a real favorite for us!
Koh Phi Phi (01/03 > 04/03)
Despite its sulphurous reputation, we also opt for a visit to Koh Phi Phi, which we reach in three hours by speedboat.
Certainly much less calm than its predecessors, Koh Phi Phi is known for its party evenings. There are also many booths in the city center. Fortunately, the island’s hectic nightlife is balanced by a total ban on motor vehicles, helping to lessen the feeling of chaos generally felt in the evening. You can also see advantages, like this bar which offers daily muay thai fights.
Note that Koh Phi Phi is an archipelago made up of 6 islands, the two main ones being Koh Phi Phi Don (the only one inhabited and the one where we stay) and Koh Phi Phi Leh (very popular for boat trips). We’re spending a day exploring the first one on foot. For that, nothing better than the viewpoints in height to have a nice overview of the region.
Then we take the path leading to the sea and one beach, which seem to be the most beautiful on the island: Long Beach. Well, sure after the Philippines, our expectations on this are somewhat biased, but we still enjoy this family time at nightfall.
The next day is our sea excursion, looking for the most beautiful spots of Koh Phi Phi... Early in the afternoon, we board our well-negotiated private long-tail boat. Because yes, in Asia, it is customary to discuss everything: the price obviously (with or without entry fees), but also the departure time, the route, the number of stops and passengers, the equipment on board (masks and snorkels), the meals and the drinking water. So we take off towards Koh Phi Phi Leh.
First stop at Maya Bay, the famous beach, which served as the setting for the film “The Beach” in 1999. Usually very crowded, we agreed with our driver not to visit it… but to our surprise, we discover the almost deserted site and finally decide to stop there. The beach itself has been closed since June 2018 to allow the corals to regenerate. It must be said that with more than 5000 visitors a day, the place was badly damaged. Two years later, the national park authorities have confirmed the gradual recovery of the ecosystem, and we are indeed surprised by the richness of its aquatic life. However, it will still take years for the seabed to fully recover and serious measures framing the tourist influx to preserve them.
Located on the other side of Maya Bay, we then head towards Loh Samah Bay, a small bay with bright colors, both above and below ground. Its translucent green waters are incredible and allow us to observe the famous black tip sharks. A first for our guests who discover a new passion for snorkeling.
Then it's Pileh Lagoon, a shallow lagoon, giving its crystal clear water. We never get tired of these paradisiacal landscapes which remind us so much of the Philippines. Yet very popular, the site is also rarely visited, and we quickly understand that these ideal conditions for excursions to such a renowned region are in fact due to the total absence of Chinese tourists ... So, almost alone, we refresh ourselves in this clear water in the middle of large limestone rocks.
We then quickly pass in front of the Viking Cave, an imposing but inaccessible cave, before exploring on the advice of our driver the surrounding seabed. A winning bet, since we are snorkeling in a giant aquarium! Coral reefs, various fish, sea urchins and a dozen sharks await us during this 30-minute session underwater.
Then we go back to Koh Phi Phi Don and the fabulous Wang Long Bay, a small haven of peace which we are the only ones to enjoy. The entrance is between two huge rocks and then overlooks a small, naturally protected bay. Manon jumps one last time into the water and comes face to face with THOUSANDS of fish!
Next comes our visit to Monkey Beach, home to a colony of macaques that we hope to be able to observe. In the end, a big disappointment for this beautiful beach from afar but far from being beautiful ... Except for the fine sand under our feet, the place has no interest. We meet dozens of tourists trying to approach the four monkeys present accustomed to vacationers. Yet banned, tourists attract animals to get their precious selfie ... To be honest, we just hope that one of them gets a good punch!
We continue with Loh Lana Bay. The beach is huge, but we prefer to venture a little inland to refuel our stomachs. This part of the island is more authentic, and we see many typical houses between mangroves and palm trees.
It is already time to get back, and we end this excursion in style with Nui Bay. No need to set foot on the ground, we contemplate the sunset aboard our boat. A most relaxing setting before rediscovering the excitement of downtown Koh Phi Phi Don.
Back at the port, Anouck, who has been feeling bad for a while, makes a tsunami and fills up a whole bag with her lunch ... which she will then walk with along the shore before deciding to throw it away. YUMMY!
Koh Phi Phi, it's over, and despite its notoriety, we absolutely do not regret having stayed there. Direction Phang-Nga, our last big Thai stop.
Phang Nga (04/03 - 07/03)
Still located in the Andaman Sea, Phang-Nga Bay is a must in the country. Indeed, with an area of 400km², it is often compared to Halong Bay in Vietnam, but less touristy.
We feel this more soothing atmosphere when we arrive in our new accommodation. We are indeed staying in an inn run by a local and his mother in the middle of nature.
A bit isolated, we are still within walking distance of the city center and especially its daily night market. Total change of atmosphere compared to our previous destination, since we are the only tourists to walk this market, and we are among the locals who come to eat there. We particularly like the experience and repeat it the following two evenings.
We first cross the region on scooters to admire Phang-Nga Bay. Direction the Samet Nangshe Viewpoint an hour away, which offers a breathtaking view of this wonder of nature. The panorama clearly makes us excited for the next day!
On the way back, we make several “cultural” stops, between religious temples and imposing Buddha statues. Besides, don't you think this one looks a bit like Gandhi?
Obliged to tell you about the following conversation:
Manon: "Who is Gandhi?"
Anouck: "He is the one who built the Sagrada Família in Barcelona!"
A good laugh before reaching the park of Sa Nang Manora, where we opt for a short walk on the marked path. Oddly, the latter gradually disappears as we sink into the forest. So much that we have to get back if we don't want to spend the night outside. We still enjoy this ride… Well, we have stretched our legs after more than half day on a motorcycle. Besides, we are enjoying our last moments on a scooter ...
For our last day of adventure, we could not fail to explore Phang-Nga Bay more closely. We leave at dawn (6:30 am) to the port and embark on a traditional long-tail boat.
The excursion begins by crossing the mangrove (one of the largest in the country) for almost an hour. The sun is still weak, and we are amazed by the reflection of the vegetation on the canal. We could get lost with such a perfect symmetry.
The mirror effect is even more captivating around the Guidos Cave, a cave crossing the rock accessible by boat.
We then arrive at the famous park of rocky islets which make the bay so famous, and even if we are not at our first attempt in terms of large rocks, this landscape continues to impress us and reminds us each time how much nature can overtake us.
Speaking of rocky peaks, here we are in front of Koh Pingan, also known as the James Bond Island. Indeed, one of the saga's films (“The Man with the Golden Gun, 1974) was filmed here, which makes it the attraction of the region. Well, if you want our opinion, the reputation of the site is totally overrated. We expected a huge block of rock, and we almost missed it if our guide would not have told us!
Fortunately, the Diamond Cave is a little more spectacular between its height, its stalactites and stalagmites, and its private beach.
We then make a short stop on the small island of Koh Hong, the time to return to childhood for a few moments.
Next comes one of the most anticipated stops of the day: Koh Panyi. This Muslim fishing village is entirely built on stilts and is home to many houses, several shops and restaurants, a school and a mosque.
Yet it was a floating soccer field that made the island popular over 30 years ago. For the record, in 1986, the children of the village, inspired by the world cup of football which they follow with great attention on television, decided to build their own ground with the materials they had. In order to assess their level, they participated a few months later in a big championship of which they finished third! The Panyi Football Club was born, the creation of which was the subject of a famous Thai advertisement available here.
After 5 hours of excursion, we return to the port, not without appreciating one last time this incredible spectacle dating back to several million years.
Krabi (07/03 - 08/03)
We get back to Krabi the next day to spend our last evening together. And what could be better than a small permanent sticker to remember this adventure? After a few moments of hesitation, everyone is ready to go, and here we are, all with an indelible (more or less painful) memory on our skin. An unforgettable way to end this wonderful family vacation.
Highlights
OUR FAVORITES
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The thai culture (welcoming, hospitable and helpful)
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Thai food (varied and tasty)
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A diverse journey (cultural, relaxing, adventurous and heavenly)
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No negotiations needed
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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Too touristy at some places/periods
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Expensive attractions and sites
Budget
Below the budget of our 2 stays in Thailand. We also passed 2 times by the country on our way to other countries, which adds 57,51€ + 146,1€ to the total.
