Burma / Myanmar
20/11 - 09/12
Burma has been isolated for a long time and has been facing an increasing flow of visitors for several years. We wanted to experience this authentic country before mass tourism takes over. However, when preparing our itinerary, we are surprised by the exhaustive list of recommendations for travelers and the number of states in the country that are on warning. We realized during the trip that they are just a reflection of the current issues faced by the government. Issues that should be detailed here in order to have, like us, a better understanding of this country and all its richness.
Table of Contents
History
After more than a century of British colonization, Burma proclaims its independence in 1948 (especially thanks to the negotiations of General Aung San before he is assassinated). In 1962, General Ne Win overthrows the political regime by a military coup and establishes a dictatorship that will last 26 years. A new constitution is established, with the implementation of a nationalized economy. The burmese states lose all their autonomy for a centralized administration.
In 1988, the results are disastrous: the country sinks into poverty to the point that it becomes one of the least advanced in the world. Worth to mention this anecdote: General Ne Win managed the economy on the advice of his numerologists, going as far as removing ¾ of banknotes in circulation because they were not multiple of 9, his lucky number. Demonstrations multiply and on August 8, 1988, the country’s largest popular revolt takes place: millions of people take to the streets to denounce the ruling regime and demand the advent of democracy. This ends in bloodshed, with nearly 4000 deaths that day and thousands of arrests.
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Overwhelmed, General Ne Win resigns, but the army remains in power by establishing a military junta. Burma is renamed Myanmar (the name is free to everyone) and many cities change their name, like Rangoon which becomes Yangon.
It’s at this period that Aung San Suu Kyi, daughter of the General and independence hero Aung San, makes her appearance. Deeply shocked by the situation in her country, she founds the National League for Democracy (NLD) and becomes the natural leader for the opposition.
Facing its growing popularity, the army arrests Aung San Suu Kyi and places her under house arrest. Thinking it will ease tensions in the country and legitimize their status, the leaders organize free elections in 1990, but the result of the vote completely discredits the junta with an overwhelming victory of the NLD (82%). However, the army refuses to admit its defeat and cancels the election results.
For nearly 20 years, the military junta rules the country with an iron first, violently suppressing opposition and imprisoning dissidents. Ethnic minorities are also targeted by the Burmese army. Human rights violations are permanent and their defenders constantly threatened.
In 2007, the brutal rise in fuel prices decided by the junta has repercussions on basic necessities, leading to a new movement of general protest. This is the “Saffron Revolution”, in which even the monks participate. Once again, the ruling regime brutally represses the uprising (systemic use of force), which gives rise to numerous international condemnations.
Representations of other countries (including the United Nations) are no longer welcome, and the junta even refuses to admit the entry of international humanitarian volunteers following the 2008’s cyclone Nargis, which affected nearly 3 millions people.
The same year, despite the country’s state of emergency, a new constitution is adopted following a referendum marked by numerous intimidations and accusations of multiple frauds. This constitution, drawn up without the participation of the opposition or ethnic minorities, allows the military junta to perpetuate its supremacy by automatically allocating them 25% of the seats in Parliament, and by providing free elections, of course, but only for a head of state with military experience and not married to a foreigner. This measure thus makes it possible to oust Aung San Suu Kyi, married to a Briton. Not surprisingly, the 2010 elections are largely won by the junta thanks to the exclusion of Aung San Suu Kyi and her party, as well as the proliferation of threats during the days preceding the election. A few days later, Aung San Suu Kyi is finally released, after almost 15 years under house arrest.
In 2011, in order to decrease economic sanctions from the United States and the European Union, the new President and former General Thein Sein decide to release several political prisoners and grant the right to peacefully protest and form unions. The NLD is again free to participate in the elections, so as its representatives.
2012 sees the first violences between Buddhists and Muslims in the Arakan State, in the west of the country. They mark the beginning of a long series of massacres (murder, rape, looting, arson) against the Rohingya community, now considered by the United Nations as one of the most persecuted minorities in the world. Some humanitarian organizations are asked to leave the country because they are accused of helping muslims first, while others are directly attacked, resulting in the repatriation of many aid workers, thus depriving thousands of people from help.
At the same time, several ethnic conflicts resume between the Burmese army and minorities, whose rights have been neglected. Peasants are also beginning to protest against the arbitrary confiscation of their land by the state.
In 2015, the Parliament rejects proposals of constitutional reforms to reduce the power of the military and pass several laws that discriminates women and religious minorities. This year also marks a turning point in Burmese history, since the elections result in the victory of the NLD with an absolute majority, which is finally recognised by the army. Parliament appoints a relative to Aung San Suu Kyi as President, as the constitution prevents her from running for it. The position of State Counsellor (equivalent to prime minister) is created for her.
In 2016, she leads the Panglong negotiations in which the Parliament, the army, all politicals parties, ethnic groups and civil society observers participate in order to cooperate and build the foundations of a democratic union. These hopes are dashed a few months later when a Muslim armed group attacks several border posts. The reprisals by the army are terrible: an ethnic cleansing operation against the Rohingya community is launched, forcing hundreds of thousands of people to flee the Arakan state towards Bangladesh. The United Nations classifies these acts as crimes against humanity. In Shan and Kachin states, fighting between the security forces and the armed ethnic groups is daily, also causing more than 20 000 Burmese to flee their region.
A year later, the scenario repeats itself: new police stations are targeted in the Arakan state, which involves a new wave of repression, and conflicts between the Burmese army and ethnic groups of other states intensifie.
Context
Currently, three major challenges are facing the Burmese government and seriously hinder its democratic transition initiated more than eight years ago:
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The persistence of armed conflicts with ethnic minorities
More than 130 ethnic minorities live in Burma. However, the junta having always favored the national unity of the country, often denies their differences, systematically ousting them from the decision-making process. Claiming greater autonomy and political representativeness, these communities have often created their own armed group of rebellion against the federal regime. Even today, they still have the feeling of being neglected, and clashes between these groups and the Burmese army remain very frequent, especially in border states (Arakan, Chin, Kachin, Kayah, Mon, Kayin, etc).
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The fate of the Rohingya (case apart)
A Muslim minority living in the Arakan State and considered by a large majority of Burmese as illegal immigrants from Bangladesh. Stateless, they are denied the right to citizenship, and thus the right to basic services (livelihoods, health care, education and public service). A real apartheid system has been put in place. The violence of the past led to nearly 10,000 deaths and more than 750,000 people fleeing Burma to seek refuge in Bangladesh. Burma is accused of acts of genocide against the Rohingya in front of the International Court of Justice, and while it admits a possible lack of discernment between rebels and civilians and that disproportionate force may have been used, it continues to minimize the scale of the crimes and the living conditions of the Rohingya.
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Abusive methods despite a democratically elected regime
Despite the coming to power of a civilian government led by Aung San Suu Kyi, the military holds a central place by controlling three sovereign ministries: the defense’s, the interior’s and the border’s. Irrespective of the election results, a quarter of the seats in Parliament are allocated to the army, which prevents any constitutional reform aimed at reducing its power. Thus, discriminatory and repressive laws cannot be revoked. Violence continues, arbitrary arrests are increasing, and human rights violations are continuous.
Therefore, our itinerary in Burma is much simpler than expected. We exclude all regions affected by armed conflicts, meaning more than half of the country, and we focus on the center zone.
Yangon & Surroundings (20/11 - 28/11)
Crossing the bridge brings us to Myawaddy, the first Burmese city on the border with Thailand. From there, we board a bus to the ancient capital Yangon. Nine hours of travel, half of which is on an improvised route… It’s almost if the dust starts to invade the cabin, and without concrete road, the shaking is not little. In short, the perfect recipe to approach this new country.
We reach our destination in the evening, where Ma Yu, Marie’s former colleague of AAPP, and her husband, are waiting for us. We reach the city center in the trailer of their pick-up, which seems to be the perfect way to end this journey.
As usual, Ma Yu prepared a feast to welcome us and introduce us to the Burmese cuisine: fried chicken and corn, tomato salad, tea leaf salad, curry, rice and avocado juice. A real treat and something to re-energize us for the next few days.
We find her the next day at the office of AAPP, the Assistance Association for Political Prisoners. As the name suggests, the main purpose of the organization is to assist political prisoners in Burma. Before, during and after their incarceration.
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Before, by monitoring and denouncing cases of human rights violations, still too present in Burma: arrests of demonstrators, activists and human right defenders, recurrent use of force, fake evidence, intimidation, absurd sentences, etc.
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During, by documenting the living conditions in prison (overcrowded, torture, etc) and by proposing to the government reform projects to improve them.
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After, by providing training to political prisoners to facilitate their reintegration into the society and by offering them and their families psychological support.
Through its reports and informative sessions, AAPP also tries to raise awareness amongst the general public, both nationally and internationally, in order to weigh more heavily against political leaders.
Founded in 2000 in Mae Sot by former political prisoners, the association was only able to open its office in Yangon in 2012 as a precaution. Its ultimate mission is to free all political prisoners in Burma so that the country can finally achieve the national reconciliation to which it aspires. Its vision is also to integrate these former detainees into the Burmese democratization process so that they can help reform the prison system and contribute to the development of laws respecting the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and international treaties.
The AAPP museum shows the dark times of Burma and the evolution of the organization since its creation. The visit is quite emotional, and we once again feel very small compared to those individuals who have not hesitated to put their lives at risk in the name of freedom and justice.
After this moment that feels out of time, we spend the rest of the day visiting Yangon, its main market, and its streets with colorful houses which are perfectly connected to the electrical network.
We don’t forget the iconic Shwedagon Pagoda located in Yangon. The platform is accessible by stairs and escalators at the four cardinal points. The site is made up of 73 religious buildings (stupas, pyatthats, prayer rooms, etc), with the main pagoda surrounded by 64 small pagodons at its center. From the top of its 99m, it is one of the most religious monuments in the world and the most sacred in Burma. Entirely covered with gold leaf and set with precious stones, we are literally dazzled. It is indeed difficult for us to keep our eyes on the pagoda more than a few seconds because it sparkles. But what a beauty!
We continue our passage in Yangon with our volunteering mission at the Thabarwa center on the outskirts of the city. You can find the description and our impressions here. We spent five intense days there before setting off for the inevitable Bagan.
Bagan (28/11 - 01/12)
We opt for a night bus to get there. The journey is comfortable and fast, so that even our eyes itch when we arrive at 6 a.m. The taxi drivers have already activated their alert mode, ready to offer us their triple cost, but despite the fatigue, we manage to negotiate the trip at a reasonable price. We really can’t wait to visit this unmissable place in Burma. The Bagan plain, with its 2800 Buddhist and Hindu temples is truly considered THE place not to be missed on a trip in the country. The site is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since July 2019.
We rent an electric scooter (nice ecological surprise!) to visit the plain which extends over 40 km². The site is a real gem that testifies to the rich Burmese history. The temples, built between the tenth and thirteenth centuries, were affected by the tsunami of 1975, and more recently by the earthquake of 2016, but many resources have been and are being put in place to renovate the archaeological area of Bagan. We understand why so much effort is invested when we see this unique landscape in the world and feel this so relaxing atmosphere.
We’re not wasting time and we’re off on an adventure on our little scooter from 7am to temples chosen at random from Google Maps.
Wild dogs are common in Asia, and inevitably, we also see many puppies during our trip, which makes Anouck so happy. We even come to meet 4 mini puppies at the foot of a temple. To say that Anouck is joyful at this time is an understatement, and it is quite naturally that we attach more importance to these little animals rather than the huge pagoda standing in front of us!
Given the overwhelming heat, we always try to favor morning and late afternoon visits. On the way to watch one more sunset, Anouck shows us her natural talent for rally crossing and we come close to a disaster.
Our second day in Bagan consists of a parade of temples and pagodas, each one more magnificent than the other. We are surprised by their diversity: there are of all colors, shapes, architectures and materials. Perfect to not get bored!
We contemplate the sunset by the Irrawaddy river that crosses Bagan. That evening, the tones oscillate between pink and purple, and the fishermen’s boats returning from their work day make this painting even more alive!
For our last day, we motivate ourselves to wake up at dawn to not miss a sunrise in Bagan. We are freezing on our scooter at 5am… but the cold is quickly forgotten with the sun coming up. It’s now an orange painting in front of us.
Not more than an hour later, the first hot air balloons take off to offer us the most beautiful spectacle that we have seen in Bagan (and without a doubt, one of the most beautiful since our departure). Only the noise of the burners is heard, which gives a special atmosphere, almost comforting.
We think that on board, the $380 show must be worth it, but clearly off budget, we do not regret our little morning excursion at all. We take advantage of an additional afternoon to visit the site and we end the day with a beautiful sunset… surrounded by hundred of tourists. Generally, we tend to flee from those overcrowded places, preferring more intimate ones. However, it turns out that this is one of the only overviews of the plain that is still accessible. Indeed, in order to preserve the archaeological buildings, it is now forbidden to climb on the monuments to admire the 360° views. This measure is adopted by the Ministry of Culture to protect the cultural heritage of pagodas, which are sacred places. Too bad, but we understand. Still magnificent anyway!
Kalaw & Surroundings (01/12 - 04/12)
We quickly notice that in Burma, the night buses represent the best means of transportation for long distances. It is therefore natural that we travel aboard one of them to make the journey Bagan - Kalaw. We also note that regardless of the duration of the trip, the buses always leave around 10 pm, even if it means arriving at destination during the middle of the night. This one makes no exception to the rule, and here we are, wandering the streets of Kalaw at 2:30 am (hello to our mummies)! It’s super cold, and without a hotel reservation, we are walking blind in search of open accommodation. But don't worry, one day, we will learn from past experiences. We find one about 20 min later, but as the hotel is overbooked, we cannot access our room before 9am, when most trekkers leave. An employee provides us with blankets and allows us to sleep on the sofas in the hallway, so we end up finishing our night in the middle of the reception. We take advantage of the day to recover before the trek planned for the next days and dine in a Nepalese restaurant in this small town that looks like a mountain resort.
The next morning, rested and well fed, we are a ready for another must-see in Burma: the famous trek between Kalaw and Inle Lake. This hike of just over 60 km through the Shan State is generally carried out over three days, the time to learn as much as possible about this minority and its way of life.
Luckily, the couple who was supposed to accompany us postponed their excursion, and our group trek turns into a private trek with our local guide David Kham (also known as David Beckham; ah, those Burmese!).
Our hike begins with a walk through the forest, during which we get to know David. In his twenties, he regularly guides to practice his English in addition to his studies at the university.
The trek is not considered difficult, the ascending elevation is not important, just what it takes to have magnificent views over the valley.
The landscapes are very diverse, between mountains, rice fields, centenary trees, local villages, rivers and different plantations fields.
Along the way, David introduces us to several resources cultivated in the region, such as beans, tomatoes, tea, garlic, ginger, avocado and chili.
Chili
Chili
Chili & Garlic
Rice
Tomatoes
Ginger
Tomatoes
Beans
At lunch, we understand that there is no risk we are going to starve during those three days.
Anouck also discovers her a passion for buffalos, according to the multitude of photos in her phone.
In the afternoon, we meet several fields workers. From afar, we can see they are making large gestures. As we get closer to them, our guide tells us that they are purifying the rice from the dust using giant fans.
We arrive at our host family around 5pm, after 20 km of walking. We still take advantage of the daylight to shower in the village, which is a brick rectangle of 1.50m high (adapted to the size of locals). So crouching, we cool ourselves off with buckets of freezing water. We then go back to our family’s house to pleasantly discover that a room is reserved for us only.
We then eat the meal prepared by a resident of the village: tomato salad, fish curry, local ratatouille, rice and papaya.
We end with a traditional green tea in the company of our guide. We question him about his dreams, and he tells us that he wants a very large family with 7 or 8 children, like his parents. When we ask him why, he explains that there is no retirement system here, and that children are the only source of income for parents when they are no longer able to work. We are once again measuring our luck in not having to worry about such things when we are so young.
Departure at 7am the next day after a good night’s sleep, bundled up in our thick duvets. The panorama before our eyes is incredible: we are walking above the clouds before seeing the world through red-tinted glasses with all those chilis surrounding us!
Later in the morning, four other hikers join us for the rest of the trek. They chose the 2 days/1 night formula and it shows: they are almost running in the front while we are at the back, feeling the kilometers from the day before. Fortunately, the midday lunch arrives quickly to reboost us. We continue in the middle of the fields, which remind us a little much of our beautiful country.
In the afternoon, we stop by a river to regain some strength. We meet there two Shan women bathing their buffalo after their hard day of work. Obviously, Anouck cannot resist the urge to take a dip with her new favorite animal.
Of course, our accommodation is located after a village behind a hill, itself located in front of a dozen rice fields that we will have to cross. Enough to finish us off before we get there. However, the beauty of nature and its landscapes motivate us to give the best of ourselves.
Well, honestly, we are very excited to arrive, especially since Anouck has swapped her hiking shoes for her flip-flops because our feet are hurting so much.
Around 4:30 PM, we finally arrive at our destination, a monastery lost in the middle of the mountains. We spend the night there, just after cooling ourselves off with our usual bucket and a gargantuan meal.
The resumption on the 3rd and last day is particularly painful, especially when putting on our sneakers. We start the hike again with our heads in the clouds, and we start to really much enjoy it.
After paying the entrance fee to the Inle Lake site, our final destination, we leave the main trail and head off the beaten track to cross red lands in the middle of the herds of cattle.
Seeing the rugged terrain that awaits us, we quickly realize that the end of the trek is not going to be easy: loose stones and bypassing rocks are on point, enough to delight our little feet. Anouck’s flip-flops are welcome again.
The last few meters are more like the Court of Miracles than a group of experienced hikers, but the midday meal ends this experience in style.
Conclusion: 63 kms, nine blisters together and one tendonitis, but above all a head full of images and unforgettable memories. The next trek will wait a little bit (a lot), time to redo the stock of plasters.
Inle Lake (04/12 - 06/12)
Here we are, at the mouth of Inle Lake, another Burmese treasure. Recognized by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve, the place is completely surrounded by mountains and immerses us directly into a decor worthy of a postcard. To access the surrounding villages, everything is done by boat. Hop, here we go. We love it from the start: this means of transportation fascinates us and we feel totally immersed in another way of life.
The vastness of the lake impresses us, and its 22km seem to disappear on the horizon. Emblematic of the country, this place is particularly famous for the unique way in which its fishermen row. Standing on one leg at the stern of their boat (without motor for them), they wrap the other leg around their paddle. Therefore, they direct their boat with the strength of their legs and keep their hands free to handle their net.
On the way, we stop at two craft workshops: the first in a silver one and the second in a weaving one, run by giraffes women from the Kayan tribe. We learn that spiral necklaces are worn from age 5. The spirals are replaced by longer ones as they grow, knowing that a woman can wear up to 8kg of necklaces, mainly distributed between the neck, the wrists and the knees. The origin of this tradition is unclear, some say to protect themselves from tiger bites, some to make women ugly and prevent them from marrying a man of another intended. Today, it is primarily a sign of cultural identity.
These workshops, like all the buildings on the edge of Inle Lake, are built on piles, which makes all the charm of this unique place.
Due to time constraints, we only spend a night there, which is enough for us to discover the bustling city of Nyaung Shwe. We still take the opportunity to rest from the trek with a traditional massage before reaching the amazing city of Hpa-An.
Hpa-An (06/12 - 09/12)
On the road connecting Myawaddy to Yangon at the very beginning of our journey in the country, we were pleasantly surprised by the landscapes on the way: immense mountains such as Halong Bay in Vietnam, but in the depths of Burma.
Curious, we learn later that it is the city of Hpa-An, still a little secret for tourists! We add it to the list right away and keep it for our way back. Luckily, we find a bus to Hpa-An from Inle Lake. 12 hours journey during the night, so to not change our habits. And one more arrival at dawn! Fortunately, the hotels are used to the flood of tourists arriving during the early morning hours and do their best to accommodate us. Therefore, we are fortunate enough to be able to check in at 7am. We are very happy with our “budget” hotel, because it offers a splendid view of the city from the top floor.
The next day, we rent a scooter for the day to visit Hpa-An and its surroundings. We hit the road early enough to avoid the heat, and of course not without having eaten a good breakfast of samosas. 1h30 of rough road (this also becomes an habit!) and a goat release later, we arrive at the famous Sadan Cave.
The cave is gigantic, and the various statues of Buddha at the entrance further increase this impression of immensity.
It takes us almost 20 minutes to cross the entire cave, which is itself separated in several rooms housing other religious statues and pagodas. We really feel small in front of so much height, and the mini bats above our heads can testify of this!
The exit from the cave facing the lake and the wooden boats that await us is worth a movie scene!
We board on this traditional boat to take the opposite path. Without a motor and facing the wind, we move (very) slowly and feel a bit worried for our boatman. But it’s so peaceful!
The last few meters to reach the parking lot are so WAOUH. Rice fields all greener than the others, surrounded by excessive karst mountains.
We then take the road to the Lumbini garden and its 1000 Buddhas. However, we are a little disappointed as we expected a restful visit. Apparently, Burmeses thought it would be nice to set up a funfair with a cable car in the middle of the gardens… Too bad!
Our day tour ends at Kyaik Ka Lat, a famous rocky peak surmounted by a pagoda. Built in the middle of a small lake, the atmosphere is much more soothing, especially with the sacred mountain “Mount Zwegabin” in the background.
We come back in time to watch the sunset over the city from our hotel roof.
At the edge of the river, you really have the impression that the sky is on fire!
We then join Khaing Zaw Win, a former colleague of AAPP, at the new night market of Hpa-An and have a drink with his friends.
At the end of the evening, we meet a choir of Christian children who stop in front the houses to sing traditional Burmese Christmas songs. Very moving moment as Christmas approaches far from our families…
Highlights
OUR FAVOURITES
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Rich history and culture
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Not so many tourists
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Authentic country
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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Transportation not very accomodating (e.g. buses arriving in the middle of the night)
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Dangerous and difficult to access some areas
Budget
