Peru
(14/06 - 01/08)
If there is one country we could not miss, it is Peru! Located between the Amazon rainforest and the Andes, it’s a true compendium of all of South America. In short, a must that fascinates as much by its landscapes as by its traditions and its incredible heritage. From the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca to the floating islands of the legendary Lake Titicaca, passing by the glorious city of Machu Picchu and other vestiges of the Inca Empire, six weeks were necessary for us to apprehend this country so big but so different and where nature and culture are mixing up perfectly.
Contents
Huaraz & Cordillera Blanca (14/06 - 27/06)
As soon as we arrive in Lima, we decide to continue with a night bus to the north of the country. Direction Huaraz, capital of Andinism located at the crossroads of hiking trails and mountain roads. We settle in a small inn which has just opened and whose terrace offers a panoramic view over the entire Cordillera Blanca.
About 20 kilometers wide by 180 kilometers long, the Cordillera Blanca is a succession of snow-capped peaks (including 18 at over 6000m) interspersed with turquoise lakes and green valleys. We need three good days to organize ourselves as the excursions are numerous and diversified. We decide to start with an acclimatization hike to Laguna Churup. After an hour of colectivo, we begin the walk of 6 kilometers and above all, its 630m of vertical drop. It climbs from the start, but the grandiose landscapes quickly make us forget the difficulty.
On the way, we meet several workers whose task is to delimit the path. We wonder how they can manage with their massive clothes, but looking at the result, it looks like it's pretty good!
If the hike is not very technical, the last part is a sheer rocky cliff which can be problematic. Cables, chains and via ferrata bars have been judiciously put in place to help us progress, thus transforming the ultimate hike into a climbing session.
But after two hours of effort, the payoff is there! At 4450m, the seven-colored lagoon is gradually revealed and the show operates immediately. The setting is breathtaking!
On a whim, we continue our way up to Laguna Churupita 150m above. The opportunity to gain a little more height in the face of an equally impressive setting.
The descent is however a whole different story… The colectivo having fixed a specific time to bring us back, we have to hurry for this extra kilometer of hiking. Mountain sickness suddenly appears, causing us significant headaches. Despite this inconvenience, the return is nonetheless very charming.
Then it's time to prepare the reason for our coming to this region: the famous Santa Cruz trek. A classic of just over 50 kilometers leading walkers through Huascarán National Park, renowned for encompassing almost the entire Cordillera Blanca (including more than 600 glaciers and nearly 300 lakes) and protecting endangered species (bear, condor of the Andes...). All in 4 days and 3 nights, and in total autonomy! And who says autonomy necessarily means going to the supermarket (VERY important) and to the equipment rental shop. Three hours of shopping later, and we are ready for the next few days: tent, mattress, -20°C sleeping bags, hiking poles, stove, gas, saucepan, cutlery, not to mention some clothes, the first aid kit, and ESPECIALLY, enough to feed us for this whole time. In short, 11 kilos each on our backs!
D1: Cashapampa (2906m) > Llamacorral Camp (3760m) - 9.6km - 854 D +
After three hours of public transport, we start the trek in the small village of Cashapampa.
Our bodies, unfamiliar with the weight of our backpacks and a temperature of around 30°C, make the start difficult to say the least. We also chose to do the route in the opposite direction in order to spare our knees as much as possible, thus reserving ourselves a grueling climb in the heat and dust to begin with!
We even wonder how we're going to be able to keep up with these conditions when the terrain finally softens, allowing us to really enjoy the surroundings. The canyon in which we evolve is gigantic, and we feel very tiny in front of this powerful river and these immense walls.
We arrive at the camp at around 5 p.m., enough time before nightfall to familiarize ourselves with cooking with a stove and setting up a tent. And then we don't say no to a small fire to warm our feet while enjoying our first dinner (pre-cooked lentils).
D2: Llamacorral Camp (3760m) > Taullipampa Camp (4250m) - 12km - 490 D +
After a cool night but a sunny awakening, we begin our second day of trekking in the valley. Cows, horses and mules are now our best friends for this incredible journey.
We continue our way between marshes and colorful lagoons, not without noticing several snow-capped peaks in the distance. I take advantage of a stream to do a quick laundry, so as not to scent the tent too much tonight. Anouck having obviously favored food over clothes, t-shirts are scarce, but a little soap and sun can give them a good boost and make them new again!
We then cross a mini desert which reminds us of our Namibian expedition. If the flat ground is good for the thighs, the body begins to suffer. Whether it is our heated feet, the stiff back or our bruised hips, the kilos(meters) are seriously felt. Breaks are more frequent, whether to regain strength (mandarins, peanuts, chocolate bars) or to hydrate.
Fortunately, the view keeps getting better and better. Surrounded on the one hand by Nevado Artesonraju (6025m) and on the other hand by Nevado Parón (5600m), not to mention the distant but distinctive Laguna Jatuncocha, the picture is spellbinding.
The last climb to our camp turns out to be more complicated than expected: the effects of the altitude appear, and the clouds make us rush despite our fatigue. So it is exhausted, out of breath and with some hailstones that we reach the camp.
But that's not to mention the highly variable mountain weather, which in just ten minutes turns into completely clear skies. We then become aware of the surrealist setting in which we will spend the evening, just at the foot of the monumental Nevado Taulliraju (5830m).
Excited, Anouck even finds the courage to take a VERY invigorating foot bath while I build a good campfire.
We enjoy our first (of a long list) dehydrated noodles in front of a beautiful sunset, enough to recover for the next day, which promises to be challenging.
The night is much colder, and Anouck almost has an anxiety attack when she wakes up with difficulty breathing. But we manage to calm down gently before falling back into Morpheus' arms.
D3: Taullipampa Camp (4250m) > Punta Union (4750m) > Paria Camp (3870m) - 11km - 500 D + / 880 D-
It’s THE big day because it’s considered the most difficult. Why? 500 meters of vertical drop to the Punta Union pass at 4750m, followed by 880 meters of descent. So we don't skimp on ginger and coca leaves (for energy and against altitude sickness) in the preparation of our morning tea. This also warms us up after a frosty awakening!
Now relieved of a few meals, the bag is more bearable, everything we hoped for today. So let's go for 4 hours of climbing!
Without a cloud on the horizon, we are heading slowly but surely towards our goal, and already in a stunning setting. The contrast between the pristine white glaciers, the gray rock, the yellow grasses and the azure lagoon is striking!
The ascent leads to the famous Punta Union, the highest point of Santa Cruz. The panorama there is absolutely extraordinary, and we stay open-mouthed for a good half hour contemplating it.
Then we begin with some concern the long descent that awaits us. The latter is ultimately rather soft, which does not displease our fragile knees. Relieved, we sit down to picnic and take the time to enjoy the new landscapes that are offered to us.
The next four hours are endless, and we think we did really good hiking in that direction. The few trekkers that we meet seem all discouraged… After 8 hours of walking, we arrive at the camp and quickly install our equipment. But better watch our stuff with these three mules on the lookout for our food!
The night promises to be freezing, but thanks to homemade hot water bottles, we are not doing so badly...
D4: Paria Camp (3870m) > Vaqueria (3375m) > Huaraz - 10km - 495 D-
We leave early in the morning and begin our last day through a beautiful enchanted forest, before arriving in a somewhat inhabited valley.
Once out of the national park, the trek continues through several rural villages where we enjoy observing the local life (various crops, drying corn, cooking) of very smiling inhabitants.
And when there are no more, there are still ... After more than 3 hours of walking, we think we are done when we realize that we have one final climb. And not the least! Cursed be the person who assured us that the last kilometers would be “simple”!
We reach the small village of Vaqueria around 12:30 pm, from where we continue with 4,5 hours of colectivo. And despite a road that would make a dead man pale, we are captivated by the exceptional environment that unfolds before our eyes, like the Huascaran (6768m), Peruvian's highest mountain!
It is naturally out of strength that we found our accommodation, both delighted to have taken up the challenge and in a hurry to take a good hot shower, a real meal and a good night's sleep. Some nice dreams in perspective...
And since we don't have enough, we are planning a new hike for...the next day! We couldn't miss Laguna 69, THE jewel of the cordillera. But we remain wise by booking an excursion, just to spare ourselves a little bit. A little bit, because after three hours of travel, the responsibility is left with us! The circuit is rather long (18 km) and steep (800m of positive elevation), and it must be said that our body dreams of only one thing: to rest! We try to fool it with the false flat ground of the great plain that we first cross but nothing helps: the hike in front of the white giants is demanding!
We finally find our rhythm when the grass under our feet gives way to dirt and gravel, announcing a good climb in switchbacks. Fortunately, splendid landscapes accompany us to console our calves.
The passage of a first ridge leads us to a pretty little lagoon... which is not our goal. The hike is not over, and neither is the effort apparently! The slope gets more intense, the breath shorter, the legs heavier, but it will be the last one before a while. A new ridge passed, and we begin to see a very bluish body of water...
As we advance, we discover the magnificent laguna 69 overlooked by the glacier that we have had our sights on all morning. The colors are stunning, vividly vivid!
After a good hour of admiration, it's time to get back down, still dominated by these disproportionate mountains that could eat us!
We return to Huaraz for the last time, still amazed (and quite proud) of our latest adventures. There is no doubt that we will remember them for a long time and that they made us want to come back! In the meantime, we are heading to Lima aboard a night bus...
Lima & Surroundings
(28/06 - 05/07)
While the capital didn't leave us with a fantastic impression when we arrived in Peru, our second experience was no more engaging. Extremely crowded (10 million inhabitants), polluted, and permanently gray, Lima is chaotic and unwelcoming. We decide to carry out our humanitarian mission here though, convinced that there is something to do. This is how we discover the association Niños del Rio, which helps street children by providing them with emergency assistance and supporting their social reintegration. Sadly, we are not able to participate directly in the temporarily suspended activities of the organization, but we nevertheless take the initiative to contribute in our own way ... A story to discover HERE.
It's then time to pick up a certain package at the airport... Our friends Dominique and Dominique (practical, yes!), super dynamic 60-year old women, come to join us for three weeks in the country.
Their stay being limited, we do not waste any time and set our sights to the coast. 4 hours by bus later, and here we are in the small seaside resort and former fishing village of Paracas. We take the opportunity to taste our first ceviche, accompanied by a good pisco sour, the typical cocktail of Peruvian cuisine.
The next day, two little cars are waiting in front of the hotel door to explore the Paracas National Reserve. Screwed to our mini-buggies, we devote our morning exploring the tracks of the vast desert peninsula and contemplating its magnificent beaches. Strong sensations guaranteed!
The sandy setting extends to Huacachina, an oasis in the middle of the Ica Desert. Coming out of nowhere, this natural waterhole surrounded by immense sand dunes is famous for its high concentration of adrenaline activities. Concerning us, we opt for a maxi-buggy ride punctuated by sliding sessions... Firmly held, we therefore begin the excursion aboard a huge all-terrain vehicle, just to get used to this singular environment.
Our first stop allows us to immortalize this moment in the heart of this incredible landscape before gradually becoming aware of what awaits us.
In question? A descent of several meters… flat on our stomach! To do this, we equip ourselves with a well-waxed board before hurtling down the slope carved by the wind in a few seconds... and we finish by asking for more!
And then it's time to find us a spot from which to admire the incredible sunset. Sitting on top of one of the largest dunes in the world (!), we marvel at this setting oscillating between copper reds and golden yellows.
A few hundred meters below stretches the small reflecting pool bordered by exotic palm trees and elegantly rustic accommodations, like our ecocamp and its concept of tents with a view and access to the swimming pool.
The only downside of this place is the pollution due to the very (too) important tourist influx, which is seriously starting to distort the oasis of Huacachina, earning it the nickname of "Gringoland".
So we end up leaving this amusement park and heading south to the must-see (and more peaceful) colonial city of Arequipa. That's 12 hours on a night bus, a first for our friends!
Arequipa & Surroundings
(06/07 - 10/07)
If Arequipa comes after Machu Picchu and Cusco for tourists, the country's second city, ten times smaller than Lima, is nevertheless on an equal footing in terms of historical importance and gastronomic traditions. Our first visit to the Mercado San Camilo attests it. The innumerable pyramids of vegetables and fruits allow us to become more familiar with the variety of products. Special mention for the potatoes, of which there are 4000 different types!
Guarded by three spectacular volcanoes in the background, Arequipa enjoys a privileged but nonetheless dangerous setting: earthquakes regularly strike the region, causing more or less significant damage.
Luckily, the historic center, with buildings carved into sillar (light-colored volcanic rock) and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, has well supported the passage of time. Arequipa is thus nicknamed the “white city” because of the many bright buildings that line the Plaza de Armas, like its imposing cathedral with its unique architecture and aesthetics. Free from modern additions, the main square is a veritable open-air museum, and it is not its countless richly sculpted churches and convents that will say the opposite!
The highlight is the Monasterio Santa Catalina, an incredible 20,000 m² monastic complex founded in 1580 and occupying an entire city block. We start the visit with the Silence Arch, which once crossed, meant dedicating one's life to prayer and not saying a word. After four years of novitiate, the future nuns had the choice to take their vows (in exchange of a high dowry) or to leave the place (at the risk of dishonoring their families).
Their commitment affirmed, the nuns moved from the novice cloister to the one of the orange trees, around which various cell-rooms awaited them. From austere to luxurious, the latter reflected the fortunes of the occupants who also had several maids.
The flamboyant Toledo Street then leads to the washhouses, where the jars were supplied with water from the mountains.
By heading towards the resplendent sillar bell tower of the cathedral, it is possible to access the common kitchen and then the Zocodober square and its fountain, where the nuns met every Sunday to exchange products they made (soaps, pastries…).
Finally, the major cloister adjacent to the chapel concludes our colorful exploration of the largest convent in the world, which still accommodates some 20 sisters (compared to 450 at the time) now authorized to go out and speak. Imbued with tranquility and beauty, it is undoubtedly the most impressive religious site we have ever visited.
But discovering Arequipa and neglecting the Cañon del Colca is like missing out on Machu Picchu once in Cusco. We therefore continue our journey to the second deepest canyon in the world (twice as deep as the American Grand Canyon), not without crossing the Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, a vast Andean territory at an altitude of 4800m sheltering about ten volcanoes and populated by vicunas, the wild cousins of llamas.
Two hours later, and we finally arrive at the endless Cañon del Colca, which stretches over 100 km and descends to more than 3,400 meters.
We decide to stop in the uncrowded village of Cabanaconde. A short hike allows us to appreciate the authenticity of local life and its tranquility.
Then we access two watchtowers offering us a splendid view over the valley. Here, the depth of the canyon and generally sunny weather generate updrafts that condors love to soar. It is impossible to say whether they are the ones we observed, but we like to believe that they were. However, if you recognize another type of bird, please do NOT tell us, thank you :)
The next day, we take the colectivo back to the picturesque village of Yanque where we will spend the night, just after enjoying the thermal springs of Chacapi.
We then meet Dulio, a guide who converted himself to a taxi driver during the pandemic and who agrees to travel the 320 km that separate us from our boat on the shores of Lake Titicaca!
Lake Titicaca
(10/07 - 13/07)
Covering 8,400 km² at 3,808m above sea level on the borders of Peru and Bolivia, Lake Titicaca is the largest high altitude lake in the world, making it an inevitable part of the journey. Sacred place of Andean culture, it is considered the cradle of life and is home to some forty islands mostly inhabited by Indian populations, who perpetuate the legacy of pre-Hispanic civilizations settled here for millennia. For our first experience in the region, we choose the Isla Amantani. With its 9km² and its 4,500 inhabitants spread over eight communities, it is one of the most remote islands. After a good climb on foot (vehicles prohibited), we are warmly welcomed by our Quechua hosts Oswaldo and Beatriz. They hasten to show us our quarters which leave us speechless!
We continue with an excellent homemade meal before getting back to our rooms under a sky studded with thousands of stars.
After a hearty and always delicious breakfast, Beatriz wants to share her customs a little more with us by dressing us in traditional clothes that suit us perfectly.
Then we set off for a walk to Pachamama (Mother Earth) and Pachatata (Father Earth), the two protective hills overlooking the island. We enjoy a panoramic view of the whole Lake Titicaca in the middle of Inca remains.
When we get back, Beatriz awaits us with her lovely smile and… big trouts that she is about to roast. Something to reinvigorate us after our beautiful morning!
Goodbyes are difficult but we must already reach our next destination: Llachon.
Located on the Capachica peninsula, the little town of Llachon is as beautiful as the neighboring islands without the tourist crowds. But it must be said that with the Covid, we are alone on almost every site! This time we are staying with Juana and Victor, and we are the first visitors since the start of the pandemic! Extremely cultivated, they are delighted to be able to interact with strangers again.
They put us to work as soon as we arrive by involving us in the harvesting and threshing of the habas (local beans) grown on site.
Then we get to prepare dinner under the precise instructions of Juana and her mother before getting to know each other around a good meal.
We learn that Victor, originally from the Aymara tribe, struggled to be accepted by the Quechua relatives of Juana. Language, beliefs, clothes... There are many differences between these two ethnic groups coming directly from the Inca Empire. But Victor has proven himself and is today an integral part of this now multicultural family. Passionate about reading, Juana and Victor are thirsty to learn and to pass knowledge on. Sharing their daily lives is therefore an incredible opportunity for us.
Victor takes advantage of the next morning to take us to a place where he likes to relax. We walk small paths through villages and countryside before reaching archaeological ruins. A two-hour walk from where we can admire the lake in 360 degrees! Serenity is the key word at the top of this sacred hill.
The afternoon is devoted to a craft workshop. The whole family is together and is keen on introducing us to weaving and working with alpaca wool. We then realize the necessary know-how, the concentration and the time required to make their creations.
Obviously, there is no escaping trying on typical clothes, different according to age and marital status. Don’t deny it, it fits us like a glove!
Unfortunately, we have to rush our departure by a few hours, as a strike involving roadblocks looms imminently. It is therefore with regret and sadness that we leave Juana and Victor at 2am and meet Dulio, our driver for the day. Slightly out of step but grateful for this humanly rich experience, we set off for more than 13 hours of travel.
Cusco & Surroundings
(13/07 - 01/08)
Fortunately, we make several stops, including one halfway in Palccoyo. A cousin of the famous “Rainbow Mountain Vinicunca”, the Palccoyo mountain is the second rainbow mountain in Peru and is just as well worth a detour. Less physical, the visit takes place via a one-hour walk to admire both the colorful cordillera and the snow-capped Ausangate, one of the highest peaks.
On the way, we meet many alpacas and vicuñas as well as inhabitants of the community who kindly agree to pose.
Palccoyo has taken its colors from the sedimentation of different minerals over millennia (red clay, magnesium, iron, phyllite, sulfur, zinc, various oxides, etc.). Once covered in snow, global warming only recently revealed this natural spectacle.
It is around 4 p.m. that we finally reach our destination: Cusco. At an altitude of 3300m, it is the oldest continuously inhabited city on the continent. Once the capital of the Inca Empire, legend says that Cusco was founded in the 12th century by Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo (first Incas) after their birth in Lake Titicaca. Cusco then represented the navel of the world. The Inca expansion (from Quito to Santiago) continued until the discovery of the "New World" in 1532 by the conquistadors, who using their horses and their equipment, killed thousands of unarmed Incas. Once Cusco conquered, the Spaniards turned themselves to Lima, abandoning the old capital which once again became a colonial city among many others. With its cobbled streets, baroque churches and archaeological remains, no city is more anchored in Andean history than Cusco.
The Plaza de Armas, adorned with the red and white Peruvian flag and the city's multicolored banner, rules the historic heart. It houses the cathedral, whose construction, which began in 1559 with blocks recovered from the nearby Inca site, lasted nearly a century. It is religiously framed by the Iglesia del Triunfo (the oldest church in Cusco), and the Iglesia de Jesus Maria with its finely chiseled facade.
The city has nonetheless embraced the frenzy of the modern world, sometimes in a disconcerting way: itinerant masseurs and coca sellers (and more) are standing in front of religious buildings, fast food restaurants are installed behind the Inca temples, while locally dressed women give bottled water to their llamas and alpacas.
Now extremely touristy, Cusco obviously has no shortage of small shops and... restaurants! The opportunity to test some good establishments!
Enough to make us want to take a cooking class! The latter is taught by Chris, a Peruvian chef trained at the prestigious Cordon Bleu in Australia. We start the activity with the traditional visit to the market: fresh and dried fruits, starchy foods, corn, cheeses, not to mention the heads of pigs, cows and other offals.
Then it's time to cook! On the menu: preparation of the national pisco sour, followed by a good ceviche (raw white fish marinated and cooked in a mixture of lime, chili, garlic, coriander and ginger), a quinotto (quinoa risotto), and finally an exotic fruit parfait (chirimoya, pepino dulce, granadilla and physalis).
However, we do not forget the surrounding region, in particular the Sacred Valley. Nestled at the foot of the impressive Andean foothills, it is full of places of interest. So it is in three days and on a motorbike that we decide to explore it.
From Cusco, we drive around half an hour before arriving at the typical village of Chinchero, famous for its many textile centers. One of them opens us its doors, where we learn more about the alpaca wool transformation process (shearing, washing, natural dyeing, spinning and finally weaving). It’s then difficult to resist the many pieces offered for sale as they are so diverse and colorful.
We continue our journey, not without stopping several times to photograph the magnificent landscapes that accompany us.
Around a corner, we suddenly see the monumental Salinas de Maras which leave us speechless. Thousands of salt wells have been operated there since the Inca times. As we get a little closer, we notice that the sparkling terraces are crossed by a tiny stream that feeds the ponds. Once dissolved, the salt evaporates before it is harvested and exported across the country by the owners.
Nearby, the archaeological remains of Moray, which look like an amphitheater, were once used as an agricultural research laboratory. It is believed that the different levels of the concentric terraces allowed the Incas to recreate microclimates and therefore to practice cultivation experiences thanks to the differences in temperature.
We end up reaching the village of Ollantaytambo while enjoying the breathtaking surroundings in which we drive.
The next day, we make way for the imposing stone fortress which dominates the city. Built on the mountainside, it was a military, religious and political center, as well as a hotbed of resistance against the conquistadors. It is also the site of a rare Inca victory over the Spanish army in 1536. There are several terraces and buildings such as the Temple of the Sun erected from huge blocks of stone perfectly assembled and whose transport must have required the efforts of thousands of workers. Needless to mention the breathtaking view over the entire valley!
In addition to its ruins, the village of Ollantaytambo turns out to be one of the most beautifully preserved examples of Inca town, since it is one of the few to have retained its original architecture (narrow streets, paving, foundations, canals, patios). Nothing has changed, as if time seems to have stood still.
Luckily, a craft beer tasting at a local microbrewery quickly brings us back to reality.
Our second day ends in a beautiful hotel, a gift from our little Dominiques to thank us for this trip.
The following morning is devoted to a visit to the Pablo Seminario ceramic studio and… to an artistic activity. Indeed, after a short guided tour of the house, we have the honor of meeting Pablo and his wife Marilu, two of the greatest potters in Peru. Founders of the workshop, they reconstitute and adapt together pre-Columbian ceramic techniques in order to perpetuate them.
Now, it’s up to us! For nearly 3 hours, we work with local clay like the Incas until we get beautiful memories.
We end up quietly with our way back to Cuzco, after more than 170 kilometers on a scooter and hundreds of images in mind.
Two days later, it's Laguna Humantay that we tackle. Not easy to get to, we opt for an organized excursion. Wake up at 4 am for 3 hours by minibus before a good breakfast. Then it's time to put on our hiking sneakers. Let's go for 2.5 kilometers, including 400m of vertical drop! While the climb in itself is not very technical, it is nonetheless difficult and requires a certain physical condition. The Dominiques handle it perfectly despite the altitude, and after an hour and a half of walking, we arrive together at the natural wonder of Humantay. Located at 4200m in the heart of the Cordillera, this brightly colored lake is formed by the melting of the Salkantay (6270m) and Humantay (5473m) glaciers whose snow-capped peaks are visible throughout the hike.
On the way back, we “gently” let ourselves fall asleep when we randomly learn of a nationwide transport strike from… tonight !!! We have to react quickly and find a solution, because without means of transport, we can say goodbye to the jewel of the continent... Neither one nor two, we urgently contact a dozen agencies which advise us all to leave the city in the evening for our destination. This is how we find ourselves, after six hours of travel and a trek, packing our bags quickly. Departure at 10 p.m. for Santa Teresa, the gateway to Machu Picchu that we will reach at any cost!
After arriving at 5 am, the day is dedicated to some rest and the hot springs of the Cocalmayo thermal baths.
Enough to relax us after this hectic journey. Especially since we do it again the next day, because we have to reach the agglomeration of Aguas Calientes... on foot! Halfway between the tourist trap and the wild nature, this village, the only access point to Machu Picchu, is exclusively accessible by train, or like us, by following the railways.
We get there after almost three hours of walking, divided between accumulated fatigue and the excitement of being so close! We reward ourselves with a huge chicken to share and pisco sour like we've never seen before!
But no time to fool around, we need to rest to prepare ourselves physically and psychologically for what awaits us. Because while most travelers resign themselves to making the last kilometers by bus to the majestic citadel, we are brave enough to get up at 5 am and complete this last portion by the strength of our legs.
It is at 8 a.m. sharp and under a sunny sky that we reach one of the wonders of the world. We are immediately won over by the surrounding lush vegetation and the vertiginous peaks on the horizon.
Then we finally see it! Completely clear, the “lost” Inca city of Machu Picchu opens its arms to us. The most famous archaeological site on the continent remained unknown to the conquistadors and remained in oblivion until its rediscovery in 1911 by the American historian Hiram Bingham, guided by locals. If the debate is still going on as to its exact date of foundation, its true function (city, political, religious, administrative center) and the reasons for its abandonment, its location suggests that it was the regional center of commercial trade. Regardless, one can only bow to the undisputed grandeur of Machu Picchu, which has withstood six centuries of inclement weather, foreign invasions and natural disasters.
The main belvedere allows us to appreciate a view of unparalleled magnitude, with the Inca ruins on one side and the distant snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Vilcabamba on the other.
We continue the one-way visit in order to admire this technical know-how more closely. The time it took for its construction is estimated at 50 years. Perched at an altitude of 2430m, the site stands on an impressive rocky peak, which must have required significant leveling, the delivery of water through stone canals as well as the construction of shoring walls in order to be able to reproduce terraced crops.
The walls, made of polished and interlocking stone blocks without mortar, encircle the central esplanade where several llamas graze and mark the separation between the ceremonial sector and the industrial and residential districts. It's hard to imagine that at its peak, Machu Picchu, which means “old summit”, had over 500 inhabitants!
After two hours of exploring, it is time to leave the city, a true highlight of the trip that we had the chance to observe in peace and under perfect weather. We find our way back to Aguas Calientes, from where a train and then a bus take us back to Cusco. An occasion to enjoy (only for some) a little more of the scenery.
Then comes the essential step of the buying of memories before saying goodbye to our friends, who are returning to France while we will soon fly to Bolivia. Many thanks for your visit!
Highlights
OUR FAVOURITES
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The diversity of landscapes (deserts, mountains, jungles, canyons, lakes, lagoons, colonial cities...)
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The warmth of Peruvians
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The very good value for money
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The ease to travel
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The sites that are unique in the world
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS
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A country victim of its success, very touristy and full of French people!
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The corruption and bad resources management of the government
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The scams in the region of Cusco
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The inconsistency of the sanitary conditions
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The lack of heaters in hotels (very cold during the night)
Budget
